Building Materials and Construction Technology
mrVoodoo: Can't say with 100% certainty, but I seem to remember seeing 600x3000 at Bauhaus when I was there and browsing some tools today. There should be a Bauhaus in gbg too, I suspect? If so, maybe you could split them and get 2x 300x3000?
JimmyB: Hello! I want to build a small shed for garden furniture, bicycles, etc. on the property. Freestanding. Maybe about 5-8 m2. I would like to get tips on a complete blueprint and material list so that I can just go to the store and buy the boards, etc., and start the construction. Thanks!
mrVoodoo: Picked up many good tips from byggahus, but now it's time for my first own post :) I've probably been hanging around here for over a year without writing anything myself :eek: I've renovated an upper floor, and primarily a dormer that was in very poor condition. The entire dormer was torn out and made twice as large so that the toilet and terrace door in the dormer had enough space to function
gnilrub: It's quite common to have 45 mm inside the standing outer wall studs. Don't think it's any problem. That's how we're going to build.
smidifix: Why tear down the old one??? Is it bad?? Probably not a good idea to put two layers of plastic, probably will get moisture as you say!
niblom: Thanks for the info. Shall immediately go out and lava om and ändvända. Thanks! /N
Mr Sound: With your description, it sounds like the previous owner made the roof change because the previous one was bad, hence the dark spots? I would first talk to the insurance company to see if it is okay to start tearing down, then I would go ahead, removing the gypsum board and insulation. I know of someone who had a water leak where the water ran along the sill, he had to saw up the gypsum board
MrWhatever: [citat] Yes, the wall follows the same line as the ridge of the house, but the house is about 100 m long, so I highly doubt that these joists, which aren't even attached to the wall, are dangerous to remove. However, on each side of the opening, there are load-bearing walls that are 30 cm thick and are marked as load-bearing on the plans.
joflopp: C/C 600 is the maximum distance, you can go down to 300. I chose 300 partly because I was constructing a partially existing floor structure and partly to be on the safe side.
daveman79: Hello, I'm wondering if anyone can share their experiences with subfloors for stone, it's specified at 300 cc on wooden joists, then chipboard and gypsum. Today, I have a very even wooden floor and am considering putting floor gypsum on top and then limestone. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Grateful for answers.. David
killian: Thank you, thank you! I will be using lättreglar, however, they will be 45mm, so now I have calculated the outer wall and roof!
södertörn: Thank you! That was exactly the tip we needed.:):):)
kromadarmbåge: good and stable chimney. thanks to casting reinforcing iron into the 4 corners of the outer shell, disadvantage: flimsy appearance if plastered. I bought an adapter for the chimney brick and clad the top part with chimney brick.
zombieboy: Hi A bit of a post-mortem report. I wonder if we did the right thing when we corrected a slope that was visible on the last 8 floor joists out of 10 in a 5.20 meter long floor in a kitchen? What we did after a quick recommendation from a building supply store was to check the sills (standing on the basement foundation wall, to make sure they weren't rotten) and then build up with oil-hardened
mycke_nu: I've shipped an incredible amount of sensitive items both by air and truck freight. There's basically only one method that works: Pack the items in a sturdy wooden box, place this box inside a larger wooden box, and pack with at least 10 cm of cushioning material around it. Ideally, place the whole thing on a pallet to avoid getting pallet forks right through the box. Smaller items are packed the
anaitis: You can anchor with - glue - plastic filler, 2-component - nails - screws - metal brackets + glue/screws Additionally, there are plastic wedges with small "barbs" available for purchase. They lock against each other. I am not entirely sure if they come in the size you need. You can also have wedges that are not wedge-shaped but more like spacers. You lift the upper part, insert the packing, and
MatsEriksson: Which suppliers of EPS systems are there? Familiar with BEWI and Fagerdala. //Mats
Fnashack: Hi A bit tricky this one - I don't think it's possible, but it's worth a shot... Currently, we have a terribly pine staircase in an open staircase area. Standard 270 floor-to-floor and the staircase is L-shaped, left-turned with the turn at the bottom. So far so good, was thinking of sanding it down, adding new oak steps, etc... BUT then I found a suitable thing on Blocket :-) Nice solid oak
Skogsbananen: They had at Grönmarks (now Tools), but not such a wide range. Fine and coarse concrete, render mortar C, gypsum plaster, floor leveling, and a few other things... This is how it turned out anyway, now just waiting for painting.
sanme: Thank you for the answers, we will do as you wrote JanneL.
mattiasj78: What is the actual problem with plastering a foiled ceiling? The plaster doesn't adhere to the foil? The foil gets damaged when sanding the plaster? Different appearance after painting?
yens: I have now progressed a bit further in my contemplation regarding my mega dormer that I will build. I will remove three roof trusses and build a "house on the house," we have concrete floors that can withstand a lot, so this construction should not be a concern according to neighbors who have done similar projects. The idea is to connect to the existing roof trusses on the sides, hence the
Dileman: Thank you so much manose and farzan, I really appreciate your help, I'm currently in full swing with the work and it just got a bit easier now .)
bergstrollet: The reason I asked is that OSB should be set with a 2 mm gap (for board movement). It will be a lot to seal if all these gaps need to be grouted... That's why I wondered if it's better to seal when the drywall is installed (along the ceiling, floor, and adjoining walls).
A.J.: A thousand thanks for all the tips and help, Chris! It feels awesome to get help from someone with knowledge. I’ll keep learning as long as I live ... :-) Take care Best regards, Andreas
Anonymiserad 68182: Thanks for a quick and pleasant reply! That thing with the laser doesn't sound bad :) One more question while I'm at it. We have concrete walls with a layer of wallpaper that we've painted over. Do we need to remove the wallpaper and place the stones directly on the concrete? Or can we fix it directly on the wallpaper and press the stones there? I also have a follow-up project if anyone is