Building Materials and Construction Technology
Hocke68: [citat] Probably to prevent soil from clogging the draining pipe.
KJD: I've plastered a lightweight concrete wall that needed reinforcement, but it needs to be "leveled" once more as it became uneven. Fixed screed guides with mortar that I leveled with a laser, vertically & horizontally. Realized I wouldn't be able to plaster the whole wall before this set, so I left it to harden. I thought of doing the actual leveling plastering in a second step, and then I can
Objektiv: [citat] Yes, it could very well be masonite, but it looks like it's been painted from the factory. But maybe I'll just buy 6mm masonite and paint it myself.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] You usually let the lining go all the way down to the floor and then fit the panel and chair rail against the lining.
GalliMattias: Nah, I have plasterboard in the right length - there wasn't much of a price difference and it was available on the shelf at my hardware store. OSB, on the other hand, is a special order item with an unreasonably higher price. So I'm going with 2500 and splicing (after consulting here) since it doesn't need to be supported in that way. Every little bit helps...
Nicklas92: Hi! I have a question regarding the smell in a 70s house with a basement... The entire basement has been stripped of all pressure-treated materials by the previous owner, they cast the slab with underfloor heating, etc. I notice a faint smell of chlorophenol throughout the house. I had a company check the sill plate, and they said it is not treated. Now my suspicions turn to the tongue-and-groove
Nej Tack: Responding to myself, remains to be seen how it holds up but here is the process I adopted: 1. Sealed any gaps between my panels with Sikasil 670-Fire. 2. Cleaned the surface of the panels with a cloth dampened with Fixor By Nitor Cleaning Wash. 3. Norgips Plaster Compound. 4. In the wet plaster, applied a fiberglass rendering mesh 4x4mm (Biltema), several strips were required, 10cm overlap. Also
cpalm: [citat] Well sure, but now TS is going to plaster over a hole in the plaster on a masonry wall in a basement.
Aajnor: [citat] That you want cc 600 is because gypsum or OSB/plywood is 1200 or 900 wide. Insulation is also made to fit in between if you have cc 600. The dimension of timber you need depends a bit on what you are building. A simpler shed usually suffices with anything from 45x70 to 45x120 whereas an exterior wall may need 45x145 to 45x195 and an interior wall usually 45x70 to 45x120.
Karl-Ove Qvarfordt: [citat] A friend who is a farmer and has animals on the farm has had problems with mice and rats, and he claims that they do not attack it, i.e., polyurethane foam.
jonaserik: If there is cast iron under the slab, it is most likely connected to the sewer. It may have been disconnected. I don't think it's connected to any drainage. If it empties a lot into the well, it could fill a drainage and cause it to backflow. If it drains when water is poured into the pipe, take food coloring and dye a bucket of water, pour it in, and try to see if it goes to the sewer or
jonaserik: Large skull it is, and then it becomes hammer and muscle work. Can go with another nail and a medium-sized washer with a small hole. That is how it's done to fasten insulation in some cases.
Dowser4711: If I see correctly, it's this thermostat https://img.bygghemma.se/pfiles/Manual__54f99864-02a9-4b78-95d7-10c36627dfc0.pdf In the settings menu, there is a key lock.
Olle Järleborg: I am going to increase the thickness of a brick wall and will apply 5cm plaster (Weber 224 C-bruk). The wall should be kept moist for 3 days, but can I apply the second layer before that?
bjornen99: Hello! We have a split-level house, built in 1962. We recently redid the drainage and insulated the exterior walls with 10 cm of Optidrän and then a membrane on top of that. Now we are renovating one of the bedrooms on the ground floor that has two walls "facing the soil." We have torn down the stud walls on the inside and struggled to remove five layers of wallpaper. There was quite a bit of
JohanLun: Lime plaster feels weak, but if not subjected to violence, it can still hold. If the damage is small, I would repair it with lime plaster, use as little paint and filler as possible. If using filler, use wet room filler, but preferably just plaster. Then paint with breathable paint, preferably silicate, but since almost everything is already painted, I would choose a breathable plaster and
Huddingebo: I think it would have been nicer to have the staircase visible and painted nicely. And definitely not white everywhere... Unless you want to maximally try to hide that you live in a house from the 1920s. The first thing I would have torn off was that cladding. Image 20 and 22 for example: https://www.hemnet.se/bostad/villa-9rum-malarhojden-stockholms-kommun-hokarvagen-7-21467219
Mats-S: Crown molding; no chance of getting it to sit nicely against the wall/ceiling and miter. Baseboard; possibly as the floor is completely flat and the baseboard doesn't need to be pressed down. Trouble getting outside corners looking nice. Personally, I would never use them, but maybe that's because I'm an old carpenter who perhaps thinks that a regular wire nail works excellently for nailing
Mats-S: [citat] You might find something on this page: https://se.pinterest.com/sarajardstam/panel/
qvirre: Depends on what you want to do, but to get good step depth/height and some simple measurements, you can use various stair manufacturers' programs. For example: https://stepsta.se/
Attackbävern: Here's the result with black covert moldings from Bauhaus and some superduper double-sided tape from Tesa.
Soffpotatisen: [citat] Thanks for the input. The house is insulated from the outside about 70mm. So 45mm from the inside is enough for us and there shouldn't be a problem with where the vapor barrier is then.
FN88: [citat] I'm going to lay 15 mm click flooring from Kährs. I told their support this twice and was surprised when they repeated that it's according to their installation instructions. Their instructions are for when you lay tiles, so I decided that screws alone must be enough. One room is done and it sits solidly without gaps, so this should turn out great :).
Madsel: Thank you for the response. We have decided to polish and maybe paint.
torparavgrund: There may well have been a door that was closed, but it's impossible to answer. On the other hand, it doesn't really matter. What kind of framework is behind it? We assume a regular stud frame? In that case, just 1) Find out if there are any pipe or electrical installations in the wall. 2) Find three studs where you want the opening and 3) Go at it with a drill, crowbar, and reciprocating saw. If
Kimpaann: Just write if any questions or thoughts come up! Best of luck with the stairway and admire your masterpiece with a quote from Lotta on Troublemaker Street "I can do so much, I can probably do everything when I think about it" ☺️
Lovisa9719: Thank you so much! All information is valuable :)
Jepp0: ah thank you so much for the quick and good responses! I'm thinking we'll go with chemical anchors and threaded rods, it feels safest since the TV weighs quite a lot. And good tip with the wall plugs as well, very useful I think since we're going to put up a small shelf and such :) Again, thanks!