Building Materials and Construction Technology
agilde: Hello! I have some Combimix PP600 (https://www.combimix.com/se/produkter/golvavjamning/tillbehor/pp-600-primer) left over and I'm going to tile a wall on gypsum in the kitchen. Can I use that primer before tiling, or should it be a more "suitable" primer?
Peter787: [citat] A real builder HAS a laser and sets level pins so they can achieve an even result. Then they usually have a mixer with a pump in a van outside where the self-leveling compound is mixed, so it's easy to mix the amount needed. But as an amateur, rent a laser and set level pins, so you can calculate the required volume.
useless: https://www.conrad.se/sv/p/kss-tv100-tv100-buntband-knut-nodtyp-n-a-gron-100-st-1523982.html
McTornberg: Hello, I want to provide some different input, as I ordered from Saver/Consteel in 2017, and I'm actually considering ordering from them again. It took, as you described, a long time and the delivery time was delayed several times, but since I was in the middle of a major renovation, where I installed water-based underfloor heating throughout most of the house and ordered the floor early, the
Rabbithole: Moisture migration goes from warm to cold, so you are unlikely to trap moisture, causing problems. With fiberglass, there should be plastic. If you can seal the inside and the walls don't get wet from rain, it works. If the walls are thin, a vapor barrier is not needed. If it's a log cabin and you want 45mm, I would go for cellulose/wood fiber without a vapor barrier, just gypsum+paint or make it
GoForIt: Very difficult to answer.. Water can travel far. Considering the extensive work you are doing, I would have removed a panel from the inner wall and examined it to ensure. Is the outer roof fixed?
Genomklok: True, worth checking out. Thanks for all the tips, I'll think a bit and see how I proceed 🙂
phjalmarsson: I am building wardrobes with doors made from standard wardrobe doors (laminated particleboard) as a base, and acoustic panels ("ribbed wall") with "felt" backing glued on one side of the door. The first door turned out well, but when I went to hang the second one, I noticed it wasn't flat, but rather had warped at the top end. It is flat all the way except for about the top 40cm, where it bends
Screew: It is a https://www.proffsmagasinet.se/maskiner-verktyg/maskiner/borrhammare/dewalt-dch273nt-borrhammare-utan-batteri-och-laddare-jv11801-2?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=P_-_Shopping_-_Push&utm_id=20290246453&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAnpy9BhAkEiwA-P8N4pXvzhd2TvQL71u8ga2g5nH9D_b7MDhd-bSt6NWN2TO36_lGrRbVHhoCgIwQAvD_BwE It sounds like a real impact drill and works well in regular
Johanskid: Apartment building from 1920. Wooden beam construction, current insulation is sand. We are opening up our floor, removing the layer of sand, which is on top of the ceiling of the neighbor below, about 180mm. Then new insulation, floor particleboard, and finally wooden flooring (15mm). Now you can hear the neighbor's TV.
GoForIt: If you are looking for any color of your choice, you might have to paint one yourself.
jonaserik: It is important to stop the weight hanging on the wall. This is done by having the ribbed wall bar stand on the floor and a number of brackets on the wall high up (4 pieces), hold it so it cannot tilt out under load. The same goes for brackets just above the floor (2 pieces). What the attachment should be made with depends on what the wall is made of. Of course, concrete is always best, but it
caril: [citat] Hi and thanks for the response! Always feels nice and inspiring to get a bit of encouragement ahead of all the home projects. We are naive enough to believe we can handle this, and maybe it's a bit of that naivety that helps one succeed with most renovation projects. We will take your description of growth rings on the home's scratches with us. As you mentioned, it's the small
mxjolle: I can confirm that I put the piece back with joint compound, let it cure, measured the center, and milled again 👍 Potentially some fine putty work left [bild]
Mellanbarn: VP pipe 16mm and cover plate for door frame should fit. A small hole in the cover plate and a slit to put it on the cable. Or you can install a cable duct to cover the hole.
pepsi1: I will tear everything down and contact a professional metalworker.
evoline: [citat] Not the best picture I got, but this is how the ceiling, wall, and window look. They also want a smooth ceiling because one part of the room is, hard to see in the picture. Is it recommended to remove the wood panels on the ceiling or to plaster over it? Thanks in advance
GoForIt: [citat] Visit a proper paint store and ask them to find the right filler from their range.
Claes Sörmland: It was quite common to have kloasong walls as wallpaper in the rooms: https://sv.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kloasongv%C3%A4gg In that case, it's best to attach with long screws that go through plaster and reeds all the way into the wooden planks.
johnny112: Interesting with a Kallax solution after all! Thanks for that!
O: [citat] Then those are the ones you should take a closer look at to get the right style.
Rickard.lj: Yes, here I have had a nordic 5:5 pump, a bit easier when 9 pallets need to go out. No, not wet, but there is a bit of a difference in the mixing in the pump and hand mixing the sack.
Colin White: [citat] Thanks for the input. I am pretty certain it is not load-bearing as well, but since I will be doing the work myself I think I will get a second opinion from a konstruktör. Although the ones I have gotten in touch with will charge 5900kr to check...
Mats-S: Yes, a 5-meter cantilever doesn't work without supporting the beam from above or below. I know a construction buddy who did something similar with Hunnebäck aluminum beam, but then the cantilever was about 3 meters as I recall. But if you can get hold of used Hunnebäck aluminum beams, you'll have a good start. Like here: https://www.klaravik.se/auktion/produkt/formbalk-aluminium/ If 5 meters is
Småbrukaren: Then you still need double spacing in both directions. Or go for 45 degrees.
Irene byggare: [citat] Feels like a good idea to have tiles on top of leveling compound. The whole space should have a somewhat field-like "raw" look, and when I can afford a bit of extravagance, I might build some walls for a "wine cellar". Thanks for the great advice.