Building Materials and Construction Technology
Boende45: [citat] It might be difficult to fit a larger mirror on a wall that is only 8 cm wide. Possible that you might need to bevel the edges slightly so it fits.
Testarn: In our house, we have similar spans but 45x220 c/c300 with bridging between the beams and then glued and screwed particle board on top, and it's completely solid - no signs of joint cracks in the tiles or ceramics at all. Our designer suggested that it would have worked with a larger cc measurement than 300 but not 600, plus it's from the outer wall to the load-bearing beam in the middle of the
kanelbullesemla: Thank you for the answers. The air gap will be a result of me having to align the wall with thin battens before the drywall.
TuXy: [citat] Thank you so much for that and thank you for the help! I'll update if I get the saw 😄
BirgitS: It is probably not likely that it is load-bearing since it is a later construction, but it can't be said that thin studs placed closely together are never load-bearing.
jonaserik: As it's said, there is Ankarskena and it's available at every pipe wholesaler and electrical wholesaler. And also at some others who sell pipe/electrical materials.
Fredrik petrusson: Hello! I'm wavering on what to do with the vapor barrier. I'm in the process of converting an old outhouse into a workshop. (ceramics) How should I approach the vapor barrier? Currently (since the nails in the outer roof aren't entirely waterproof), there is a construction plastic attached to the rafters that extends all the way outside the building, so if moisture gets in, it runs outside the
Immobil: We decided on a suspended ceiling without spotlights. Got quotes from a couple of companies. The price difference was gigantic!
fribygg: Place the containers lower (preferably at floor level in a cool room with a floor drain) or install some sort of tank that you can drain and fill without taking it down. I think a hydropress or hydrofor with appropriate water connections would be significantly more convenient.
Henrik 75: The only thing I managed to solve now is this, but you have to disregard the LED lighting hanging in front (the electrician is coming tomorrow).
Fideliox: This is how our previous owner did it. [bild] The baseboard is planed at the level difference. Nothing we think about.
Fällebyggarn: Reviving the thread since a few years have passed... I'm going to build a sauna in the old brewhouse and the chimney has been cut just below the roof. An insert pipe will be used since it's old, but a new top section needs to be constructed. Blocks or bricks? Or a metal pipe? What is the easiest and possibly cheapest? The channel is 14*14 cm
tttomten: [citat] After some consideration, I took construction plastic and stapled it up, then applied a bead of latex for sealing against the board. After that, a plasterboard, putty, and painting.
P-plats: Sounds like I'm on the right track if I choose treated material for the posts but regular untreated for the crossbeams between them. The panel will then be painted with acrylic paint to match the house, garage, and shed. Thanks for all the opinions and tips, they are valuable.
knegolf: https://silentdirect.se/sv/products/silentdirect-akustikduk/66773?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkJO8BhCGARIsAMkswyidwXPw4YOmqmZpBaK5zffze3B8rQslsgMn_THNwbDoG0LZZ5R1qLwaAos0EALw_wcB Here you have an example where it is available by the meter. I would first check with the manufacturer of the acoustic panel if it is even necessary, considering that the acoustic fabric is mainly used to hold the
vanpire: [citat] Yes, but solid wood is much nicer 😎
tergo: [citat] Yes, I changed 3 boards 5-6 years ago and it looked good on the backside.
Einh: [citat] Yes, it is probably good to seal the hole in the wall too. So that moist air doesn't go up in the chimney and condense on the cold surfaces there.
Missionshuset Roslagen: [citat] Yes, exactly. It's an intermediate floor. But good point. Maybe not entirely straightforward. I'll think about it a bit more, but one should at least distribute the load on more than one column. I might end up consulting a structural engineer before breaking ground. As mentioned, it's quite a large loft.
datja: [citat] A beautifully plastered wall I consider significantly more beautiful than a gypsum wall.
FredrikR: [citat] No, why would you? Frame continuously according to the sheet size you intend to use, cc450 or 600.
AG A: It is at least more difficult to fill a very small joint. As for potential cracking, I'm more skeptical. As a former carpenter, I have generally made relatively small gaps, for the most part at least. There haven't been any cracks, though. Whether it gets better or worse with larger gaps, I have no idea. However, the best approach is to apply joint compound on the cut surface of one strip before
StrukturalAB: [citat] Mechanical engineers can do it too :) I am a structural engineer. The truss seems to have an internal support, i.e., load-bearing inner walls. Just checked quickly, but it's nice to have the calculations for the truss. The beam required needs calculation, steel if height is limited. HEB for example. Transverse walls are not load-bearing but can have a stabilizing function with respect to
sebbeosv: [citat] And how should I interpret the values from a moisture meter? If it's higher in the floor than the wall, does it mean it's coming in through the floor?
Tagepike: Thanks for the reply, I'll see if I can find skenor then 👍
Anonymiserad 405730: It would probably be better to follow the drawing so that both ends are positioned equally to be symmetrical.