Building Materials and Construction Technology
Saintus: [citat] Thank you for following up on your own thread. We are facing the same project. It would be interesting if you could show a picture of the construction. We will also only have three rows of stone. Does the first row lie completely underground then and how deep did you dig?
mxjolle: @Bergfors did you land on a good solution then :)?
RichardRR: Old thread but I have used the same? plaster/mortar from Hornbach for many projects and never had any problems. For example, when we were leveling the kitchen wall before installing the frames, we had plaster tracks that were 20-30mm and no cracks anywhere. https://www.hornbach.se/p/gipsputs-baumit-25kg/7196557/ Could you perhaps have added too much water to the mortar?
GoForIt: If you are going to add insulation, you need an air gap between it and the polycarbonate, as well as ventilation options. There can be quite significant temperature differences there, so the problems should not be underestimated. Additionally, polycarbonate roofs have a tendency to leak over time. Isn't it a better solution to remove the polycarbonate and install a felt roof instead?
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] The three painting companies we mainly work with have switched to using adhesive sealant instead of latex in houses, but on larger constructions, they use latex because the jobs are so cost-pressured and the latex sealant is so cheap. We no longer buy latexfog at all, either privately or professionally..
jonaserik: If it is an L-shaped staircase with a free-hanging stringer at the outermost point, you won't get rid of the creaking by gluing or screwing anywhere. The only thing that might help is a support down to the floor at the angle of the L. Then you lift the staircase about 1 cm and place a post under the stringer, it should then be a wedge or something else that prevents the post from sliding upwards
ranzor: Hello! A house from the 1920s that is being renovated; I need to level the floor on the upper level as there is almost a 5 cm difference in level over about 1.5 meters. I started removing the plank floor and found this underneath. Uneven bricks. The wall to the left is the chimney, and underneath is just a hallway. What's the best thing to do? Start chipping away the bricks and frame it up or use
plan-g: [citat] Thank you, The area is 13m2. We are deciding between limestone floors 10 or 18mm thick. So in total, it would be 13 mm floor gypsum + about 4mm adhesive + 18 stone = 35mm. Alternatively, 25mm with the thinner slab.
neo11: I would say you should take a bricklayer's hammer and chip away everything that is loose. And then think a bit about how to plaster it again.
Josth: If you are looking for extra soundproofing, invest in better soundproofed interior doors that match the inner walls. Don't forget to insulate the ceiling joist, however it looks there.
Th236: Update: Now that all the old materials have been replaced, and new in and out air ventilation is installed, all the smell I sensed is gone. The ceiling inside is also closed. Now it just smells newly built/neutral🙏🏼
Träkyrka: I am fond of Designtak's metal entrance canopies, but as someone thrifty, I'm wondering if I can get away much cheaper. Also, I want the canopy to extend further than theirs allows, in our case about 1.3m, and be supported by pillars. We don't have much building height between the top of the door and the panel (16 cm), so it needs to be a neat roof. But the slope would be about 7° if I
4092: My old chimney crown has developed a crack and I plan to cast a new one in the spring. I've read that some people think it should be cast loosely on top, is that a good idea? If anyone has smart tips for the execution, they would be gladly received.
Litenskit: [citat] But that barely helps at all. You don't achieve ei60 by installing double plasterboards. You need double plasterboards with at least a 70mm air gap and then double plasterboards again.
Markus_snickare: I would support the rafters resting on the wall you want to remove by placing a cross beam on top of the rafters in the attic and securing it with iron. This way, you transfer the load to the nearest rafters that still rest on the wall that remains. Since you are going to vacuum out the sawdust anyway, it will be relatively easy to arrange. Even though it says they are free-standing, the
Det_finns_inte_skrot: [citat] Unfortunately not. So something must be done.
Attackbävern: I didn't really want to, but I went up a bit in timber dimension and built with double 45x45 studs with a 5 mm spacer instead, which provided 50 mm of space for the door to run in. Anyway, here's the result: Hafa Rollock sliding door fittings with soft close.
knyh: [citat] When the light comes indirectly from the windows or window lamps, it looks nice and smooth. Then we have a ceiling lamp with a shade that shines straight up towards the ceiling. Then it doesn't look as nice and even, because you can see every little imperfection. We rarely turn it on, so it's not a problem in the bedroom for us. But I wouldn't recommend the type of ceiling lamp we have in
Anonymiserad 405730: Yes, there are different sawmills that have delivered the råspont, there is no requirement for how the jointing must be..
Claes Sörmland: If you want to repair, you have to prop up a board from underneath and throw in adequately mixed coarse concrete from the side and press it in. Before you do that, you can apply loosely mixed (like porridge) concrete with a large brush on the rough concrete surface for better grip. When the concrete has set after a couple of hours, remove the board and work on the surface. For example, fill in
MeanPrediction: Thank you for the response. I have come to the same conclusion, unfortunate. But it will have to be a physical copy.
Anonymiserad 405730: How old is the house? It looks like there is a stairwell next to it and in that case an internal gable wall facing the cold attic, is this wall properly insulated and has a vapor barrier? Do the remaining parts of the house have a vapor barrier?
johaans: The highest priority is for it to be good. But if I don't need to knock down the bricks, I would prefer to avoid that job.
RoTe: I joined MDF by doubling its thickness and filled the joint, and it has worked for about 6 years.