Building Materials and Construction Technology
Testarn: [citat] It depends on the height and material behind, if you can anchor in the slope, which stone and mortaring you choose. Check what the manufacturer says about that particular stone.
Nicklas92: [citat] Hello there! I have Tretex as interior walls... could this possibly also be treated? I'm actively looking for something pressure-treated here at home but can't find anything... I've checked the sill and it isn't treated! Now my suspicions are moving towards my tongued and grooved interior walls, that is, behind the Tretex...
Sofia1: [citat] Thank you very much, I learned something new 😀 I will leave the piece of the wall as it is.
heimlaga: The best option is to build a new log wall, but it may be possible to install a glulam beam recessed into the outer wall and supported by a post standing freely beside the wall. In that case, the outer wall must be reinforced with followers, meaning 6x6 or 5x5 inch battens standing one on the inside and one on the outside, held together with heavy bolts that go straight through and run in
Joakim654: Here comes a small update and follow-up questions: Discovered that there were stylish and robust planed moldings with dimensions of 15 x 69, so instead of placing blocks in front, I screwed and glued these directly to the rule with thin (3mm) screws, which became very robust: [bild] The new problem is that due to various reasons, there's only room for trim on one side (the left in the picture).
Gyllendesnittet: Hello again! Anyone have a good idea on how to get a more even finish across the entire brick wall? I still want to keep the brick look.
Zigg: Is it possible to glue a fireproof board (Calcium silicate board) with stove cement? The base is a tongue and groove wooden wall.
zarkov: That's enough, I think I had 4, possibly 5 screws over 3 m when I put up my sliding doors (3 in the walls).
Kimpaann: You don't need to unscrew any cabinet to see it, you should be able to see it by scraping the silicone joint that is against the underside of the upper cabinets. If you're lucky, the wet room panels are only screwed and sealed with silicone at the joints. Then, when you have removed the screws, you should be able to twist the panel out from the wall, and it will come loose at the joint (like a
Dowser4711: Nice! Now it should be a while before it's time for bröstpanel. :)
FN88: Hello! I am going to lay floor gypsum over grooved chipboards and I can't find information about fastening the gypsum. Should it only be screwed? What type of screws should be used in that case? The chipboards are 22 mm. Thanks in advance!
Testarn: [citat] As long as there is not a lot of movement in the walls (new blasting, someone throwing themselves against the wall) I would say it doesn't matter. Press it in as far as you can with the putty knife.
Jack2001: [citat] Thanks for the input. There were some holes and dents at the top and bottom of the lightweight concrete elements, but I patched them quickly with B-mortar a few days ago so there wouldn’t be any cavities behind the renovation gypsum.
Avemo: I was thinking about latexfog. It will shrink if you fill all the cavities with it. But filler will crack and I don't think that's better. Foam sealant could work. But it's quite messy and troublesome to deal with in such places.
BennyBigBanana: Now, this was a while ago, but I'll give it a try! I was thinking of doing exactly the same thing, but in a somewhat larger attic space. So large that I (1) only plan to use half of the space, (2) one will be able to take 1-2 steps into the attic space (the floor might need to be reinforced). Do you have any tips or lessons from your build?
Roobiiiiin: [citat] I've now used mold-free and then sanded off the glue. Do I need to remove all the black stuff before tiling, or can it stay since the mold is dead?
Roobiiiiin: [citat] Yes, what I have is not light gray. But it looks like a sponge.
Testarn: If it should be painted with a texture like concrete, I would use ROT-gips, it is only 6mm thick and slightly flexible and if you look at your protruding part, it appears to be slightly curved so the gips can bend against it.
Rickard.lj: There's probably nothing strange about it, furnish and enjoy 😉
reta: Do I need vertical battens or is horizontal battens sufficient if I'm using tongue and groove vertical paneling for a good and ventilated air gap? Worried that I will trap the air between the battens otherwise.
reta: Should I let the internal lying 45 stud also lie on the sill or should I attach it only to the primary stud (i.e., "hanging" just above the concrete slab)?
VLJ: Yes, but wrong measurement unfortunately, it covers 65 mm instead of 75 mm.
Demmpa: What does the inside of the wardrobe look like where the screws might go? There are narrow trim screws you can use. If there are holes for shelves, etc., in the area where the screws might go, you can screw through these holes.
Fjonken: [citat] The product is called gypsum :) https://www.bygma.se/produkter/byggmaterial/cement-bruk--putssystem/putsbruk/naturgips-gypsum-25kg/
HEM2121: [citat] Contact a manufacturer and ask/recommend.
Testarn: You position the floor chipboard with an expansion joint against the standing wall stud, then you erect the interior walls on the floor chipboard. That's how I would have done it anyway. The door frame is placed in the wall studs but stands on the interior floor, so if you're going to lay parquet, do it before installing the door frame. The parquet can have a seam under the threshold if necessary
Testarn: A good way is to dig out the pinnmon and lay in crushed stone, and in that layer, lay pipes that can suck out the air under the house and then pour concrete on it. If you pour EPS concrete, it will also be insulated. It is quite common in houses with radon problems to install a radon pump that removes the air under the slab. Then all cracks and holes in the slab are sealed, and a fan creates a
hempularen: Now, I'm not exactly knowledgeable about this. But I'm doubtful whether it's possible to set tiles on epoxy regardless of which primer you use. There are primer/membranes available in two-component forms. They are used partly as part of the membrane in extreme environments like swimming pools, and partly on "impossible" surfaces, e.g., galvanized steel that "nothing" adheres to. But nothing
Nusse2940: [citat] If you do as she wrote, it's a good alternative if you have overalls and equipment and collect all the asbestos, and as she wrote, wet it so it doesn't dust. It's better than leaving the stuff there if you have the opportunity to remove it instead of leaving it there, which does no good, rather. But then you must be as meticulous as a professional, almost like wetting it and having