Building Materials and Construction Technology
H_L: Found this after googling: http://www.gyproc.se/files/PDF/Sweden/HB7/HBKap3.10.pdf According to chapter 4.10.1, it looks very much like you can hang one long side of the bed in just the plasterboard provided that you use anchor fittings, a sufficient number of fittings, and that your plasterboard is not of unusually poor quality compared to Gyproc's. /Henrik
Suhagg: Will build something in this style. Are there any load-bearing walls due to the vaulted roof, or is there a laminated beam straight through the house? [bild] [bild]
tralopp: [citat] That sounds great! And since it's a water-based paint, maybe I won't have to deal with a strong smell? I painted moldings one New Year and had a pounding headache for several days. I am planning to seal the knots anyway since it's not a large amount of wood. Just to be safe. I have now been out and bought rough sawn timber for 4.90 per meter, it's quite nice and was available in lengths
DWHenrik: No one has any ideas? I received a calculation from a builder's merchant that a 16 cm I-beam should work, but it seems a bit flimsy to me, doesn't it?
Caspár: Hello! Not sure if this is the right forum, but I'm going for it anyway... When sealing, you can spray a mixture of soap and water before smoothing the joint, so my question is as follows: What should the ratio of soap to water be? Thanks in advance!
para: Thank you for that, I didn't find the article myself! Yes, on page 27 it says that you can mount it directly in the chimney stack and that you should have an extra reinforced cassette that is mounted in some kind of double steel hood.
Johan Gunverth: Responding myself as I have received some samples. NCS S 2505-Y25R. This is an average of the gray-beige base color The closest would be S 2005-Y20R or S 2005-Y30R. In other words, a very common gray-beige wall color shade.
Paul-Staffanstorp: Personally, I would have chosen OSB behind the plasterboard because it is a more stable wood panel than particle board. The ultimate choice, if the budget allowed, would have been plywood instead of OSB, but they are significantly more expensive. However, plasterboard is the only proper surface material.
somelvis: Does not contain asbestos, dampens sound well, not great for hanging heavy items.
Anonymiserad 23608: 45 mm is too weak. 70 mm works if the wall is not abnormally high.
jonttas: I am looking for fittings similar to Saheco SF-S35. That is, where the lower fitting does not sit directly on the floor but instead on the underside of the plinth... check the pdf file on the page if you don't understand me :) http://saheco.com/index.php?menu=productos&categoria=1&producte=251 I have tried to find retailers without success.
GoEk: [citat] There was something to read, thanks! Would also be interested in some form of technical literature with deeper knowledge including mathematics, etc.
puu: I put regular drywall in the ceiling of my laundry/bathroom in the basement on cc600 studs and it worked well.
Biff: Hi! I'm in the process of renovating the basement. The surface is some form of thin, ribbed masonite panels that are painted. They are not smooth but have a striped, vertical texture. What is this? And how do I get smooth walls? Does filler stick to it? Wood filler? And then apply some renovation wallpaper and paint? (Under the panels is tretex, which I understand should preferably remain...)
MathiasS: How much overlap do you have on the beams? I assume the new beam extends as far to the right (in the image) as the existing beam?
banco: We are renovating an old 19th-century stone house in Skåne. When we were replastering and repairing walls in one of the rooms, we removed a built-in wooden "shelf" that was in the heart wall. On the other side of that wall in the adjacent room is the chimney. What we found behind the built-in wooden shelf was very strange... A large cavity surrounding the chimney. To the left of where the wooden
jeppeknaster: Saw someone who described this installation method but now I can't find it. Is it okay to lay 50+50 mm cell plastic s 200 and then 21x120 planks, plates, and then parquet flooring? The base is concrete. We have the lumber and it would be nice to avoid buying the expensive grooved cell plastic boards. How would one, in that case, keep the boards together so that they don't slide apart and move
ByggBert: Found some at: http://www.maxit.se/media/22/pdf/gds/putsa.pdf I don't think the price matters in this context as long as it's the right mortar and it's done correctly from the start. Maxit, which is sold by K-Rauta, is a branded mortar, so there should be no problem using it. The issue is just knowing if you need a base mortar, if it was previously lime mortar, etc....
ByggBert: Attach the trim flush with the bottom boards. For vertical bottom boards, attach to the batten adjacent to the window, or only to the sides of the bottom boards. For horizontal bottom boards, it's sufficient to attach the trim to the stud closest to the window frame. When you screw or nail the casings in place, the trim is pressed against the window frame, and any gap that might occur due to
Jan-Å: We used Fischer plugs bought at Bauhaus, special plugs specifically for lightweight concrete. Our kitchen cabinets are still on the wall after 6 years.
apotekarnes: You can usually see the nail rows in the panel if they are not overfilled and painted.
Krawk: Keep in mind that there may be steel studs there. You need the right type of screw if you are going to attach something to them, and it's a bit more risky overall with a point load.
Suhagg: Now I have an inkling of how it will look. The exterior walls of the house and possibly the garage will be prefab. OSB and drywall will probably still be needed as I will try to buy a lot of materials myself at good prices. House. [bild] Garage and storage. Is the garage sufficient as a hobby garage to tinker in a bit? Of course, the bigger the better, but unfortunately, money is a constraint.
Ahlbom: Hi stefand, my experience is that once you paint over the spackel, it becomes much harder, the paint cures/dries and becomes a protective layer. Don't forget to prime, spackel absorbs a lot of paint :)
5.2 racing: Sure. But after ten years, I've realized that in the long run, it's faster for me at least to plaster three times and thereby avoid going back to fill in where I've missed. But as you say, it's up to each individual.