Make an attempt with a topic of your own since I didn't find the answer to my question.
We are going to straighten the walls in the kitchen of our house from 1904. At the same time, we thought of installing new and fresh electricity. But what should we do with the radiator under the window? We would prefer not to remove it and straighten the wall behind if it's not necessary. But what happens around the radiator if you don't do that? And as if that wasn't enough, there is a radiator pipe that goes from floor to ceiling. Is it unwise to be too close to such a pipe? We have a waterborne system. Would it look strange around doors and windows if there's too large a gap between the log wall and the actual wall?
Is it enough to have OSB + plasterboard for a wall cabinet to hold (+ of course plugs)? No need for studs to attach it?
Then we need to move an old door with frame. Should the door be fastened with the existing fastenings, or should we use frame screws like in today's new doors?
Grateful for all answers.
Have a great day all fathers
We are going to straighten the walls in the kitchen of our house from 1904. At the same time, we thought of installing new and fresh electricity. But what should we do with the radiator under the window? We would prefer not to remove it and straighten the wall behind if it's not necessary. But what happens around the radiator if you don't do that? And as if that wasn't enough, there is a radiator pipe that goes from floor to ceiling. Is it unwise to be too close to such a pipe? We have a waterborne system. Would it look strange around doors and windows if there's too large a gap between the log wall and the actual wall?
Is it enough to have OSB + plasterboard for a wall cabinet to hold (+ of course plugs)? No need for studs to attach it?
Then we need to move an old door with frame. Should the door be fastened with the existing fastenings, or should we use frame screws like in today's new doors?
Grateful for all answers.
Have a great day all fathers
Hello there, I have aligned the walls in an old 1800s cottage and I found a good solution, I first put up Tritex boards, those yellow boards of 12mm, they are quite soft and absorb irregularities from the wall behind them, and on top of them I then put plaster. But then of course it depends on how crooked your walls are. Take a straightedge as tall as the wall and draw it around to see how the crookedness is. When it comes to the radiator, there might not be simple answers. If you had studs out from the wall, you might be able to build the radiator into something nice and have them aligned, but now I understand that you only plan to put two boards on the wall, and then it doesn't work. If the brackets for the radiators are long, i.e. there is plenty of room between the wall and the radiator today, you might be able to let the new wall finish behind the radiator, i.e. the radiator covers the joint. But then there will be less air gap to the radiator, and depending on how large the radiator is and how warm you need it, you might not be able to do that. Another solution is to move the radiator out and place it on the new wall, depending on whether it's possible to bend the pipes. When it comes to the pipes, I wouldn't recommend encasing them. Same thing there, can they be bent out so they can be placed on the new wall? Around windows, I've never had any problems, you just make new reveals and then set the window frames against it instead. OSB and plaster for wall cabinets are no problem, but if you have OSB you don't use plugs, that's only when it's plaster, concrete, or brick. If you want it really secure, you can choose long screws and screw into the underlying wall as well, houses from 1904 sound like timber or standing planks, in such cases just screw on!
Door with frame, I'm not sure what you mean by fastening the door with frame screws or brackets, as it's installed today. Frame screws are special screws that can be adjusted after installation; you screw them into the door frame against the wall. For interior doors, especially old doors, I've just set the frame in the opening, been careful to prop up the frame with wedges, at least 3 on each side, test with the door in place that it can be closed. Check the frame with a spirit level, if everything checks out, I've nailed through the frame where the wedges are. It has never been a problem for me if you're careful with the above steps, and if you use frame screws you can adjust them as needed. I've only used this for my front door.
Door with frame, I'm not sure what you mean by fastening the door with frame screws or brackets, as it's installed today. Frame screws are special screws that can be adjusted after installation; you screw them into the door frame against the wall. For interior doors, especially old doors, I've just set the frame in the opening, been careful to prop up the frame with wedges, at least 3 on each side, test with the door in place that it can be closed. Check the frame with a spirit level, if everything checks out, I've nailed through the frame where the wedges are. It has never been a problem for me if you're careful with the above steps, and if you use frame screws you can adjust them as needed. I've only used this for my front door.