Building Materials and Construction Technology
Ahlbom: With gypsum, it's easy and fast, tretex can smooth out irregularities in the wall since it is quite porous, keep that in mind before you potentially remove it. There is also 6mm gypsum that doesn't add much if you just want a new smooth surface.
FredrikR: If it gets *very hot*, minerit might be preferable, as plaster tends to become porous from heat. If it just gets lukewarm, plaster should work great. Another option, depending on how it looks in your hallway, is to use textured paint on the 'scraped clean' wall. It gives a plastered impression and looks good - if it fits in the hallway, that is.
Krawk: Haucon has, for example, a few different ones. See "Matrices" on page 38: http://www.haucon.se/product_pdf/produktkatalog7.pdf
MrMatte: Managed to get hold of an angle gauge at Jula (small red plastic thing) that shows the correct angle. After that, I got better results. But some angles just didn't align because the angle caused the moldings that were supposed to meet to have different slopes. As a result, shadows appeared over and under the molding. To minimize this, I sawed square blocks in wood and made a simple pattern,
Fuego: What size expansion joints did you use if you used any, and what did you put in them if so?
BigGitt: I have tried to find some information about different construction techniques regarding exterior walls and insulation. For example, a wooden frame can look like this: gypsum, 45x45, plastic, 45x120, exterior gypsum, slats, paneling = 165mm insulation. What would the equivalent look like in leca, ytong... What thicknesses would be needed to achieve the same insulation result? Edit/// I have found
passenger: Thank you for the suggestions! It will be a tiled wet room on one side, so I want the wall to be anchored as stably as possible. I was thinking of using a sill band underneath, and it doesn't look quite "glue-friendly" on one side. Maybe it would work better with a regular rubber membrane.
Roger J: Misspelled by me! of course I mean "tätskikt" Thanks for the answer:)
hakaner: Hello, I don't have personal experience with this, but take a look at this page that advises against it: http://www.lfs-web.se/olampliga%20krypgrundsatgarder.htm - They do sell some products, so they are biased, but they have many good points and explain and reason around these on the website. Read through and form your own opinion....
JanneL: Probably doesn't matter which one you choose. Take the one that is cheapest.
tompa_70: I am going to build a canopy according to the following. Width (along the house) 4 meters, depth (out from the house) 3 meters. A 4 m long wooden beam (e.g., 45 x 145) is fastened to the house wall, about 2.5 m up on the wall. 3 meters out from the house, I will cast two footings ("one in each corner") and attach posts (e.g., 2 nailed together 45x95) to them. NOTE! I want two posts, i.e., one
apotekarnes: If you build in 1 1/2 stories, the building height should not exceed 6m. You can probably manage to have an upper floor on more than half of the ground floor plus auxiliary space without it becoming too high.
Tornhill 2: A stonemason might, should cost someone a 100 note. Check in the Yellow Pages. / Fredrik
Tornhill 2: Sure, it's technically possible, and if you can manage a remaining "frame" it also becomes economically reasonable. You need a beam to relieve the weight from above. If you don't want it to be visible from the ground floor, you'll need to hide it in the ceiling or in the wall on the upper floor. In practice, this means you have to tear down the ceiling and possibly part of the wall above.
wiknil: Need a few tips on a good solution. I have the office in the basement lounge which is about 3.5x8 m and I have the office in the last 2.5 meters. Currently, I only have a curtain dividing it, mounted on a ceiling track so it can be opened. The problem is that it doesn't absorb sound. Installing a permanent wall is not an option. Is there a simple solution to consider? I've looked into sliding
Bezt: Thank you for the response, the house was drained last year so it should be OK, I'm actually a bit against tiles since the grout gets so dirty, a basement should withstand a bit of rough handling and allow you to walk in with shoes without worrying about cleaning difficulties.
jordraketen: Hello. I my not yet built house, I'm planning to construct a section of brick wall. Mostly for appearance's sake, but sure, there would be a wall anyway. Also, I'm thinking of placing a stove there. It's a non-load-bearing wall, about 1.5m long and probably all the way up to the ceiling, 2.4m. It should be "brick-colored." My questions are: 1. What type of stone should be used? 2. How do you
lasseseger: Wonder if you can have a hot tub on the 2nd floor if you frame c/c 300 without it falling down? Has anyone seen this?
AHassel: Hello hello! We are almost done with the renovation of our upstairs, but we're missing a staircase railing/guardrail. We are interested in something similar to the following: no. 19 on http://www.trappmaster.se/parent.htm or http://www.lundbergs.com/trapprenovering___174.aspx?prodId=247&startId=0 How would you go about assembling something like that? You can see in the picture how it should be
Ahlbom: Phew, raising the roof sounds like a big project, but might as well do it "right" this time!
andersmc: I bought those corrugated cardboard panels for my roof, and I must say they were a complete disaster. Luckily, I didn't put them up right away; instead, they sat in a storage room for a while. When I later went to install them, they had started to disintegrate from the moisture, to the point where some of them couldn't be handled without falling apart. This is what would have happened if I had
Xekich: The big problem as I see it is that it will take its little time with everything that entails (microwave meals, uncomprehending family members, etc...) IF we now choose to switch to mini circuit breakers and ground the living room/kitchen, is it standard practice to also ground the remaining rooms on the lower floor? Labor cost is not a factor in this case as there are electricians in close
marmander: After some googling and pondering, I found the solution to the problem myself. It will have to be a steel frame and casting with planja combideck or equivalent, and possibly mineral wool on sparse paneling under the slab.
Olivander: Yes, the ends are on the partition walls, regarding Fasting65's suggestion, unfortunately, it's difficult to implement since there's a wall-mounted cabinet underneath that wouldn't be accessible anymore (the drain would come down from the ceiling right in front of the door). But I liked the idea. Anyone else have any suggestions or think it wouldn't be possible to drill?
apotekarnes: On the other hand, it is the cheapest method for self-closing doors.
Vringhed: How do you measure the thickness of an interior wall? Vringhed Concerned citizen
Jessica Pessica: We are going to build new so we can choose if it should be L-shaped or U. Everything is supposed to be so open and "spacious" ;-) nowadays, much of the practical goes away..which can be irritating when trying to keep things tidy at the same time... Anyone?
MathiasS: Here is an old thread on the same matter. http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/41757-balk-vilket-material.html