Building Materials and Construction Technology
Krawk: Chemical anchors might be an idea because it can crack with plug/mechanical anchor. Through bolt is otherwise simple and will surely work.
Matti_75: Latex dries from the outside in. Depending on the thickness, it takes a while before it completely dries. You don't need to worry. Latex molds in damp environments.
Tiger79: Nail a 45*70 where the cabinets are to be attached and it will be perfect...
Ola78: Don't know how much time the "snik-varianten" saves, but it's probably a bit cheaper since many house manufacturers use it. Personally, I would use råspont, I think it feels like it makes for a more solid roof. When it comes to the floor insulation, the best is probably to use byggrulle to avoid having so many seams in the insulation.
Go4it: Hmmm, don't understand about the masonite strips? What's the purpose? Can't the particle boards bend? /F
Totte_S: If there's a downpour and they get very wet, there's always a risk they might warp when drying. Buy the cheapest lightweight tarp and package them in. Consider the cost of the tarp as part of the investment in the quality of the house so it doesn't feel expensive. At Byggmax, a 2.5*3.6 m tarp costs 24 kronor...
Umemagnus: Thanks for the response yes, it's really "just" the framing of the walls that differs in work. The existing studs are nailed with some coarse nail, straight through the stud and into the concrete... stuck like heck :/ But, as you say, it would be really sad if it turns out in three years that there are issues with moisture and other things... Now to the next question... If I'm going to frame with
Foam sealant or backing rod between sparse paneling and interior wall? Stop noise and mice project..
Yrrol: If I apply expansion foam between the battens and the inner wall, is there a risk of squeaking or anything else occurring? Is it better to insert insulation or something else?
vagabondo: It is probably an advanced operation and likely not possible (within reasonable limits) to change due to the current construction. In that case, it might be just as well to replace the chair type with a folding chair or rebuild to a 'svensk takstol', i.e., an entirely new roof. If you plan to redo it, you might as well take the opportunity :)
Totte_S: No, that's how it's usually done underwater. The timber lasts as long as it lasts, it's the concrete that provides the strength. Screw the top part of the form from the outside if you don't want half-rotten timber there in a few years. You don't need very thick timber either, think about the cardboard tubes you plan to cast in, it's all about keeping soil out of the concrete and getting a nice
pbengtsson: Particle board is classic. Many people still use it. Single-layer gypsum works too. But both require a center-to-center measurement so that joints land on studs.
Totte_S: There are different types of reducers, so that’s probably no problem. For example here In my opinion, it would be most convenient construction-wise to place the reducer on the vertical pipe and then use a 125 mm 90-degree bend. If you're building a drum around the 125 pipe, it will probably be easier to avoid a lump in the ceiling. A 160 bend becomes unnecessarily bulky, but on the other hand,
FredrikR: Double plasterboard, absorbs a lot.
Segge: Didn't really know which forum to choose but this felt the most appropriate. Soon the demolition of the old kitchen and a WC will begin. I plan to tear up the floor to fix creaks in two places, level it, and install underfloor heating. I'll also take down the interior walls to redo the electrical and plumbing. I'm also replacing 2 windows in the kitchen. The house is a gullringshus from -65. Is
Adam001: Hello, We are in the process of extending our house, two floors being built in aerated concrete. Problems have now arisen with beams for windows and doors, and we are wondering if anyone here can give us good advice. The background is this. We have bought H+H aerated concrete blocks from Poland, dimensions 365*250*625. For this, we have received beams that are 175*124*2000. The seller suggests
cheetah1: Start with all the framework parts before inserting insulation, it will definitely be easier. And I also count doors and windows etc. as framework parts.
Ola78: That sounds quite sensible, what you're planning to do. Between the floors, you don't need a differential barrier as the insulation is in the same warm space as the upper floor.
Nene: Thank you. Works with both plasterboard and ply/OSB. Advantages of each board?
magnu: You can take thin plywood sheets and glue them together overlappingly, and you'll get a large sheet. I know that Fredells in Stockholm joins sheets in that way.
anderssoncatarina: Thanks for the quick response. Now the wall is down and the apartment will be dusty for a long time to come ;o)
saturnus: Yes, maybe it will be better, there is also a beam with thicker material. But the jobs I've been involved in, where a load-bearing wall has been removed to create a larger room, have not met the standard = floor deflection, which leads to cracks forming. Now our interventions have involved a box to cover the beam, and then it becomes moldings and paint that give way over time. But your ceiling
jac: Thanks for the update, sounds promising. My project will probably take a few more months :( because there’s so much else that needs my time. I have a sliding door in place so it’s not so urgent. But the studs for the frame are at least in the garage and the saw that I will use to split them was delivered on Friday. So it’s progressing a little bit anyway. :)
Bambi: Aha, then I'm with you, thanks for the clarification, then the overlap should be just right :)
frebor: Thank you for the answers! I see the advantage of laying the entire floor with gles first, but how did you solve the actual tubing unrolling afterwards? I was mostly thinking about the turns. If you then lay a frame of gles, you would still need to kortla under that stretch, right?
seniorkonsult: Yes, if you are going to have this type of construction, a dehumidifier is required if it is going to turn out well. There are prefabricated house manufacturers with this construction that have dehumidifiers as standard. Regarding the sand, it was stated as such in the standards from 1970-75. The only problem is that pollen, seeds, and all sorts of things blow in. Then mold starts to grow as it
kalubah: I am installing 17mm råspont. However, I need to leave a gap at the edges, could this cause problems? What are the risks? Could moisture occur or does it just insulate worse if the insulation is exposed to drafts?
palbin: Hello! Can one use Casco HusFix to replace missing material inside an open fireplace/masonry wood-burning place? (I got this advice from XL-Bygg, but when I checked the product information on www.casco.se, it doesn’t mention anything about heat resistance, so I’m a bit suspicious...) What else should be used to fill it out? (Fireproof mortar might be a bit too fine as there should be larger
Johan Gunverth: [citat] Yes. Still the same Stena Steel list as above ;)
dosken: A plank is so wide that you can walk on it and so thick that it can support standing a few meters out from the railing. Otherwise, it would have been called "Walk on the board" :cool: