Building Materials and Construction Technology
m97rek: Hello! I am going to build a storage shed that is very similar to this: Link The difference is that I am planning to put roof tiles on the shed. Now I read a little here on the forum that roof plywood is not so popular and that rough wood planks is better. Does that also apply in my case? Or does it not really matter? My roof pitch will be between 7 and 10 degrees. Thanks
JanneL: Feel free to make a simple sketch/drawing, it will make it easier. The placement of the wall is very important.
anaitis: Probably your loads and measurements are such that the closest you can get with standard dimensions of timber is the suggested one. Very common that you have to do so.
tova66: does anyone know what the difference is between, for example, Hörmann port and the cheap ports that are available? I'm going to buy three, so it will be many thousands cheaper if I buy, for example, Krafer or Byggrossisten. like half the price. is it worth taking the risk?
fredand44: Hi Grävaren! Thank you so much for your post! It made everything very easy to understand! I must say that the assembly looks very nice!! Regards Fredrik
Tiger79: Thank you for the response. It seems like constructors have a hard time calculating this kind of thing... I have talked to a roof truss company that didn't think my rafters, which are 50*145mm, should hold. Now they have held for nearly 50 years. Best regards
tbbe: Hello, I have received dimensions for the ridge, side beams, and pillars I will use for the house and found that I should use "115x115 L30 Glued Structural Timber" according to byggbeskrivningar.se. Is it the same as what Beijer sells according to the link below, referred to as LK30? http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_Produkt.aspx?id=41945 Have a nice evening!
Alko: Eh, don't you also need to divide the lower window - does it really look like in your picture below with a horizontal "post"? And not that I'm in any way an expert or even knowledgeable in this, but I think it's more relevant what kind of frame you have, and how you anchor the studs, etc., in it. Then you would need to get two (?) new windows with the right dimensions. I also think it looks
markr: Hello! We have renovated our bathroom and part of this is a bathroom cabinet (in walnut) which we have recessed into the wall, so that we take some space from the adjoining room. In other words, we have a large hole through the bathroom wall where the cabinet is situated. The question now is how I should build the new wall in the adjoining room - I don't know how moisture can be transported from
callel: What difference is there in the quality of MDF-Board from different brands? I have previously bought quite a bit from Cheapy as they have a really good price on 16mm MDF, but I read in a thread here that it was of poorer quality than from many other hardware stores. Is that true? I assume that, as usual, you get what you pay for, but I have, as mentioned, been satisfied when I have used their
Bowman: Yes, okay, thank you for the response! I will check this!
magnu: The spackle has quite a nice material. The key is to protect from spills. There won't be any stones that you can tread through the cardboard. There are two types of floor protection cardboard, one cheap and one a bit more expensive. I've heard that the more expensive one is discarded cardboard from milk cartons. Either way, it is really thick. If you tape a piece of it to each step with masking
tbbe: Forget my first question. If I place the roof ridges on top of a 630mm high beam, I get 630+195= 825mm to lay insulation on before the beam disappears completely, occurred to me after coffee cup no. 2 on this Sunday morning.
A_st: Hello, We have been considering for a while to make one of the bedrooms larger and will need to move a wall about 1.5 meters. Additionally, the wall will not be straight. See the blue line. The wall we want to move is the one between bedroom 7 and bedroom 11. The previous owners have already removed a wall and replaced it with a beam. According to the plan, it's the wall between living room 23
Matti_75: The problem with diagonal measuring is a problem that doesn't exist. If you install the frame with a level, you don't need to measure the diagonal. Just install the hinge side and the top piece vertically and horizontally. Insulation in the ceiling, stretch mason's string between the studs. The best tool I can recommend is a good laser measurer, invaluable when installing, among other things.
Dr.SiC: Also feel intuitively that at least one suspension point is needed. Have also considered some rubber variant but it should be something that lasts for 50 years as well. Haven't come up with anything good yet, suggestions are gratefully received.
equallo: Hello, I did as shown in the attached image. Could it work? From the center of the fireplace, it's about 1.80m to each side to the load-bearing concrete beam. The outdoor air duct protruding in the image is 5cm from the center of the fireplace. Under the piers, there is a slab measuring 400x400x50 each. The position of the fireplace is indicated on the attached drawing.
Guzzi: Ah, thank you! I believe I've visited that guide once upon a time. Are there any specific pitfalls to watch out for? If one were to mix the bruket oneself, what recipe should be used then?
PCLarsson: [citat] Reminds me of a question from Cyklar with Galenskaparna; A boat runs into a dock at a speed of five knots, how long does it take to repair the dock? Have a nice weekend /PC
Fasting65: Stranden72: Mja, you are not entirely correct. Many primers work in basements nowadays. It's the constant additional moisture that some primers can't handle. This has been discussed several times: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/grund-markarbeten/60581-primer.html There are many self-leveling compounds that can withstand moisture loads. There's absolutely no need to run to Ardex and buy their super,
Kolonist_1: I have a ceiling made of painted particle board where someone has tried to fill the seams between the boards, which looks terrible, so we want to replace it. I'm thinking of putting the same type of boards on the old ceiling to do the job quickly and smoothly. I have now checked and the ceiling boards I found are covered with some kind of foil, not painted. What kind of foil is it? Plastic foil,
Chepo: [citat] Yes, sometimes you get lucky when you think. However, it will be on the outside due to how it is in the existing... Thank you for all the help!
Mikael_L: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/40310-duger-virke-fran-byggmax.html Personally, I usually consider that reasonably straight and nice pieces, without cracks, without disturbing knots on the edge (in the middle it doesn't affect it) or wanes are of quality K12/C14. Regardless of the place of purchase ... So-called visual sorting. :) Right or wrong..., well I believe it works
clippan: Hello, I am going to have a chimney built in my house. I have heard that there should be at least 10 cm of non-combustible material around the chimney, so I am wondering how the passages in the joists/roof should be made. From the bottom, there is first the ceiling of the ground floor, then the actual passage through the joist, and finally the floor surface of the upper floor. Then the same thing
zno: Has anyone come across a calculation program for fire protection classification? I want to check if my wall construction for the garage, entirely without gypsum, approaches EI 30. (outer panel + air gap + 145 mineral wool + 22 råplan)
Johann.k: Hello! I'll try to explain a little problem I have...:S. It's like this, I bought a house a few months ago, and have now settled in, so I tried using my fireplace the other day. Before I lit a fire for the first time, there was a small crack between the front itself and the mortar (or whatever you call it??), but now I've lit a fire a few times, and it's coming apart more and more. The problem is
Swappe: [citat] I have experienced overheating protection that after a "bang" on the floor or a bump on the thermostat, completely stopped working... Heaters can also get quite warm without triggering them.
Skånelängan: [citat] Exactly, 3 walls and two air gaps. The air gaps are perhaps about 50 mm and they are bone dry. Vents on the outer side ventilate the gap between the brick walls. The air gaps have an insulating effect.
miry: that's partly why I suggested a winch or building one, as it's not a major problem to make a winch yourself using a 220v motor. If you build one, you can choose what kind of motor to use, although a drill might probably work, and then you can change direction with it or use indicators to keep track of its position. but it's easier to find a solution that you don't need to do much yourself, and