Building Materials and Construction Technology
byggare henke: crowbar, hammer (possibly hoof tongs if the head of the nail breaks, can also be hammered in)
frillaH: Thanks for the answers. It worked out. I was able to borrow a rotary laser... Wow, how smooth. With the right equipment, it’s a piece of cake :)
dilemma: :) Thank you for your response, Raceman! It always feels better with a second opinion - now we just need formal approval from the board so we can get started. I'll get back with before/after images.
BigGitt: What happens to the decking? Can you see anything? Or is it just to wash/rinse?
Gornoth: if you plan to have a ceiling molding, you can leave a small gap between the drywall and the ceiling panel and apply an acoustic sealant there, which can further reduce sound transmission. However, in a single-family house, just having insulation in the wall and floor structure should be sufficient.
byggare henke: should only have painted. do not use joint compound
Stefan N: The seams are almost certainly going to crack, unfortunately. Also, it shouldn't be fine filler but medium. If the wall is uneven, you fix it with broad spackling, and for the corners, you use corner protectors so they're not so sensitive to impacts. You use latex in the inner corners.
SvenD: Hello, The kid is keen on buying a condominium that is in great need of renovation. The building is one of the many three-story buildings constructed in the suburbs of Stockholm during the 1940s, with concrete joists and interior walls made of some type of slag block, approximately 15 cm thick as far as I can tell. The bathroom is 1.4 x 1.4 and difficult to make anything sensible of without
Jan-Å: With those options, I would use the fogsvans, which I mostly do anyway despite having the Bosch model of the multi-cutter.
Forbo: Used expanding foam on some tricky spots to seal the plastic... noticed that it adheres poorly to the plastic, so it's not a good idea. However, the foam is diffusion-tight if it's thick enough, so it can seal uncertain areas... otherwise, it's glue, tape, and clamp...(Staples with tape over them during installation and then clamp if possible...)
Danneå: I think it looks good... easiest to work with interior walls when the roof and floor are in place... you can change the layout later too... just need to keep track of studs in the ceiling/walls... Just one little thing... have you considered chipboard in the walls instead of OSB? Chipboard is cheaper...
LLLVäxjö: Thanks for the answers. We ended up buying 3.4x90 but we didn't use them for all the outer boards, we mixed it a bit. On the gable peak, it was only 2.8x75. I think there was a crack in one of the nail battens that fooled us a bit regarding how the nails fastened in the wood. Weekend's results, window mounted and panel nailed: [bild] [bild]
pbengtsson: Contact a carpentry factory, e.g. http://www.tjornssnickerifabrik.se/ (recommended), not particularly much more expensive than department stores, but significantly cheaper than ABI trä.
ppalm: The upper cabinets are 7.2m high and the counter is 45m long???:wow: You can glue with setting glue like pl600 or screw. The choice is yours, though I think I would choose to screw as it is easier to replace tiles+drywall next time.
Ola78: Contact a building engineer/structural engineer, check the phone directory.
jävla_hus: Ventilating the air gap may not always be entirely correct; stagnant air is a reasonably good insulator, while moving air will vent out the heat that leaks out and thus provide no insulation. I could also imagine that when ventilating the air gap, cold air comes in, causing the moisture in the outer wall to freeze, leading to cracks. D
kia2: Stefan N: Yes, one like that should work. How does its load-bearing capacity compare to a regular anchor? I'm planning to put up a fairly heavy shelf - and of course, I don't want to worry about it falling down. I'll be using two brackets. Each bracket has three holes for the wall. So that means three drywall anchors for each bracket... Which maybe means it will be very strong after all?
Forbo: [citat] Hornbach is in Stockholm, Malmö, and Göteborg.. you can find the addresses on hornbach.se. But if you are closer to Biltema, go for it, it works great. Biltema also has a cheap bag with about 10 mixing nozzles so you can just put the cap on what you don't use, throw away the used nozzle and save the rest for other times. By the way, a tip about threaded rods, Byggmax has cheap hot-dip
Knifv: At my company, we always bond the aerated concrete with adhesive, super smooth. Then we plaster with regular plaster mortar. For an optimal surface, I recommend priming the entire aerated concrete surface with a thin layer of mortar, to later apply the final plaster. This is because aerated concrete absorbs the water from the mortar extremely quickly, so it will dry more evenly and smoothly if
JF.: Thanks for the help magnu! The ceiling is hard concrete, so what you suggested should be enough. Thanks again!
magnu: I have screwed the wardrobe to the wall. I have fastened the passbitar from inside the wardrobe.
Beckborg: Yes, it might be too fragile to cast EPS in the insulation. The material can probably handle heavy loads downward but small side forces, such as wind. I'm starting to return to a wooden frame, built as plywood boxes filled with loose wool; Prefab. Regards
Alko: [citat] Thanks for the tip! I would like to hear from someone who has done it and seen that it works. However, I got hold of a guy at Platon (what a compelling name by the way :)) who said it worked perfectly well if you followed their advice. They are as follows: You open for the pipes (KB pipes are probably around 50 mm in diameter?) in the Platon mat by cutting a small 'b' with the slit
Mikael_L: Maybe it's time to buy or rent an inspection camera as well. I tried googling some examples of what's available. http://jsprodukter.se/product_info.php?products_id=45&osCsid=b28e8cd34cbefd3fbbb4ccb63948b511 http://www.clasohlson.se/Product/Product.aspx?id=143931728 http://www.clasohlson.se/Product/Product.aspx?id=152285605 http://www.jula.se/inspektionskamera-137396 They might have camera cables
Raceman: Another variant could be to cover the end of the wall with a board (gips) and then mount corner moldings |_ in the corners and then paint.
David i Skåne: Hello, you are probably done with the stove, otherwise I can recommend "SIKA FIRESTOP" fire sealant. Withstands 1000 degrees and is slightly expanding!
sam820921: A small update on what has happened: Before I ran off to the hardware store, I found the following link (for those interested) about choosing a drill when drilling in metal. http://www.ehow.com/list_6676350_drill-bits-drilling-metal_.html Among other things, it says: "Cobalt bits are the best choice for drilling holes in stainless steel and harder metals because they are stronger than HSS bits."
prototypen: I don't think it will mold without ports, however, WITH ports with insulation without heating, there is a chance it will get so humid that it molds. Protte