Building Materials and Construction Technology
Koppetorparn: Thanks to you too FarsanSeger, more useful things to read and watch :) I'll get started right away!
jonas_7en: buy a 45 mm thick oak countertop and rip it in half, then you'll get 2 from each slab :D
Kapten_Haddock: Well, no success. The doors at byggmax are so damn ugly :( But I guess I'll get one anyway. Hopefully on Fri. Best regards/
TMA-1: Ok, I found a good image that might show how a floor should be. [bild] Concrete slab - air gap - stud - insulation (Styrofoam?) - OSB - floor. Is that a correct understanding of how a decent floor should be?
Krillew: I have just finished building the chimney 10m from the basement 4-pipes... I noticed that the chimney can easily sway +-1.5cm, so attaching the chimney to the roof is probably preferable to stabilize it a bit. But the question is what to use—is there foam that is allowed to be used against the chimney?
Chajo: Hello, Perfect, your answer completely meets my requests, now I understand the context. It's just a garage roof and no cranes or karnar involved. Thanks for the help Chajo
Johan Gunverth: Now then (pick the frame with the content). http://katalog.essve.se/webspeed/katalog/kat_produkt.p?bid=V70&kat_bid=V70&dokid=wc398272
ikeahantverkaren: http://www.lamello.de/download/anwendungs-filme/invis-system.html CLICK ON THE RED LINKS ON THEIR SITE
nilsson.ph: Started tearing down a bit cautiously today and discovered that the actual blåbetong was only 70 mm thick. 10 mm plaster on each side gives a total of 90 mm. According to a structural engineer who has worked a lot with aerated concrete, load-bearing aerated concrete walls are ALWAYS at least 100 mm thick. Is there anyone else who can agree with that?
huggan: Yes, and for 300 plasterboards and 300 OSB boards, it will be quite some cash. Those studs weren't so cheap either, maybe should have double 45*45 studs too.
Svanteman: Have you bought turnkey but without a kitchen?? You can install the paneling before or after the cabinets, it's a bit of a personal preference. I would have installed it afterwards, but won't it look strange if the panel ends where the cabinets end?? If so, you might as well put raw pine behind the base cabinets too, then you might as well clad the entire wall before you install the kitchen, make
Alko: Interesting tips! Then I am a bit concerned about how good it is to use a dead material like steel straps for wall studs made of wood that will want to move a bit if you get it really tight.. But the studs are not supposed to move relative to each other anyway, otherwise it would be impossible to put up drywall etc...
Alko: But goodness, 16 answers! I promise, you can remove 100 more drills in that rule without it making any difference. And yet I’m still also a careful DIYer who uses a multimaster and chisel instead of a reciprocating saw when I demolish, kind of... /A
Forbo: Check the manufacturers' websites for assembly instructions, there are a couple of different ones...in one of the instructions, I found a template for just the support legs and sealing around the intermediate floor, etc...it was quite clever. (Then it's still a bit tricky and I also used silicone around and in the joints for maximum sealing.)
Tyresö: [citat] Have thought about it, but it seems like overkill to build a greenhouse. Then there will be a lot of formwork/reinforcement work and insulation work to cover the concrete so it doesn't become a cold bridge. The advantage of building it in concrete is the stability.
Totte_S: Yes, that was the solution. But I don't understand what you mean by not sealing? Do you mean it should allow air circulation or? If so, it was half right, because there's a gap at the top on one side but not the other. We'll evaluate in 10 years... ;)
Jan-Å: [citat] I have laminate flooring, maybe it moves less even though the core is chipboard. But otherwise no problems with any movement, the floor is on polystyrene boards with waterborne floor heating, not sure if that could affect anything? Screwed French screws down into the concrete slab through the entire construction in one place, then the battens are attached to the walls and with
GullanH: I was mostly thinking about the construction itself. I have done an extension in wood, but never worked with lightweight concrete.
gadeberg: a crowbar with a wide foot. Start gently and then increase. Otherwise, you can take something like a multi-master and saw out like a frame inside the nails. Then you only have one row of nails in the middle, and you break the board there and get it out in two large pieces. Barkspade is another good tool.
Swappe: I would have done as the supplier recommends. Lindab shows, for example, in their instructional video that you should take up a "V" or wedge as you call it. =) However, I don't know if your alt.2 is better or worse.
imported_hans: When a house is not sealed properly in the "wind barrier" and the wind-pressed air passes through the same spot for a few years, a layer of dirt forms because of this. You wrote outer wall, so the possibility exists. The dirt the wind has brought in has also stained the insulation, which I can tell from your picture. If it's windy outside, hold up a candle and you'll quickly see if it's a bit
swechilli: Hello! I'm in the process of renovating my bathroom down here in Sicily, and I decided to install underfloor heating. There aren't many people around here to ask for tips since most don't think it's necessary. My question is whether I need to use fiber-reinforced filler for the underfloor heating and slope, or if it would work well with: KERAKOLL R10 MAPEI ultraplan Does anyone know these? Thanks
ÉlPon: Just some info in case someone has a similar question in the future... Ecophon asked me to photograph both sides to identify the type of tile, and I then saw that they were indeed marked with Ecophon... The tiles are made of stone wool with a painted layer of fiberglass felt. They should withstand heat and humidity, 95% at 25 degrees and 100% temporarily at 40 degrees according to a retailer.
strevert: After reading about these small nails, I asked the local hardware store here. They didn't have any in their range, but the construction company they rent the premises from used these in their operations. They were so kind and got a batch that I could buy. But it would be interesting to know where one can buy them in the future.
DeEss: Formplyfa should be able to handle it... Okay, in ten years the box might look pretty worn out, but it's cheap material compared to, for example, aluminum.
englundm: Then I understand Meckis's comment better. Yes, one brick wall supports beams while the other does not, one might suspect. I assume that the floorboards on the second floor reveal the direction of the beams. I will place steel pipes as props on either side of the wall that lift a plank to the ceiling while I remove the wall and don't have a beam in place. The question is what is best to choose as