Building Materials and Construction Technology
v-g: Could be an old "vadsomhelst" I have a hole for a water heater, i.e., the kind you used to boil water in for washing. It's just a matter of bricking it up as long as you don't plug the channel inside.
benox: Hello! We have a family room that I plan to divide into two rooms using a couple of partition walls. The floor in the family room currently consists of (from bottom to top) a concrete slab, Platon mat, 70mm insulation foam, 22mm chipboard, and on top a plastic mat that I assume is glued to the chipboard. Is it okay to put up a wall on this flooring, or will there be issues?
Bodhgaya: Thanks for the answers! I'm still a bit curious about the option of gluing panel boards... But what happens if you glue and one day need to remove the panel? Won't the drywall get damaged then? I'm planning to wallpaper above the panel, and the current wallpaper is quite loose on the drywall (it's just a single layer of wallpaper), should I tear off the wallpaper at the bottom where the panel
Ola78: Can't you offset the studs so that they don't line up directly with a stud in the wall? This way, you also break the thermal bridge, plus it makes it easier to install the drywall and you maximize their use. Just a thought, I don't know how your house wall is constructed, but if it's a standard stud frame, it should work.
senapsson: Thanks for the answer! Yep, I forgot to add that information. It's a 6-floor building, built sometime in the 40s I would guess. I live on the ground floor. What worried me was that I interpreted the drawings as showing a beam (the one marked DIB 20) going right over the wall, and that perhaps it wouldn't be a good idea to make an opening there without reinforcement.
Mikael_L: Well, someone has to ruin the sensible threads too... :rolleyes: I’ve taken that upon myself... :D ps. andersmc is right.
gaston: Hi! I know this has been discussed before, but the threads are not very fresh anymore, so here's the question again. I am going to mount a wall-mounted, chimney-free fireplace, and the instructions say to use a minerit board to protect the wall behind it. Minerit and masterboard panels are sold at hardware stores, so that's not a problem. The problem is that I don't want a whole board, just a
Tyresö: The concrete for your stairs will weigh about 1200 - 1300 kg because it will require about 0.5 - 0.6 m3. I would advise against picking up the concrete with a trailer because how do you think your car will look if you have to suddenly brake for someone in traffic? How do you think the trailer will look after all the concrete mess that hardens? And how do you think the trailer's axle will fare
Tyresö: I would probably trust the KA because he/she should be educated in strength theory. Why else would you pay an exorbitant fee if it's you doing the KA's job?
Fröberg: Hello. I have a section with two large windows and a large double door (second floor). The section is 200 cm high and 500 cm wide. On the second floor, right above the window section on the second floor, starts a window section about 130 cm from the floor, which is 90 cm high and 500 cm wide. The exterior walls are made of foam and concrete. How should this be done to withstand potential load,
Alfredo: It's probably hard to answer without being able to try. It's not that someone has been diligent and sunk/spackled/painted over the screws/nails?
Lasse Kongo: Now it's done. For safety, I switched it against the slats next to it, but now I can continue building on the hatch. Thanks for the help. =)
pinebar: We have a similar place, and I was initially planning to use plyfa as well. But now that we've had it and have been burning for a while, you can notice the cozy warmth radiating from the chimney when we burn. So now I'm considering doing something in sheet metal instead, so the heat doesn't escape. Additionally, it would be good if it can be opened for chimney inspection too. It's probably also
Tyresö: If you distribute and spread the weight, you can load more in the attic than you might think. Avoid placing heavy items over the beams that do not have a supporting wall directly underneath them.
andersmc: I have a pellet stove and have laid tiles directly on the chipboard. Nothing has happened with it in five years.
andersmc: When specifying module dimensions for doors (and windows), it indicates how large the opening should be. The door is then slightly smaller to allow for adjustment. However, it is obviously better to make the opening a bit too large than too small.
Johan Gunverth: Well, you wrote "elderly gentleman" and "odor contamination" so I put two and two together. These elderly gentlemen usually have DDT, hormoslyr, and other handy things stored in their sheds. :)
BigGitt: [citat] What I'm going to write is what I believe! If you have the draft open, there is a high risk of damage. The warm humid air always seeks to move upward. You can check this with a flame close to the gap. If it tilts towards the gap, the humid air follows it. If it tilts away, you have a "fresh ventil" gap = no danger. I believe you can compensate for this by increasing the exhaust.
barfotalasse: I have a plastered ceiling in the basement that needs repair. There are some larger holes around pipes after work with water and sewage, as well as quite a few cracks along the walls and small holes. Various hanging water pipes for heating, electrical cables attached to the ceiling with drilled clips, some of which are old "fabric wiring" that should be replaced. Now the chimney sweep wants the
Milkshaken: [citat] The moisture is naturally present in the concrete slab..... So if you want to have it really moisture-free, you should remove all organic material and seal most of the vents you have... but save one for intake and one for outlet.... Then you can relax.... For a really serious job, you should cover the ground with plastic sheeting, anchor it so it doesn't shift... Then lay a layer of Leca
Krawk: Does not always matter so much in small houses, but one should also consider that the sound insulation between floors is deteriorating. It also depends, of course, on how the new floor on the upper level looks.
twtwtw: Hello, I am installing an internal wall and have the following questions: 1. OSB board, I understand there should be a movement joint between the boards. But how much space should there be to the floor and to the ceiling? 2. I've read that you can use acrylic sealant between the joints to reduce noise. Does this only apply if you're using plasterboard, or can you use it with OSB as well? 3. When
Stew: Then it's probably concrete hollow blocks that I have. Do you think the reciprocating saw with a lightweight concrete blade can handle this?
BillyBragg: [citat] We bought it from a company in Örebro http://www.spiscenter.se/ but they don't have it on their website. I just called them to check if they could order one for us, but they had one on display! I think that http://www.ved-pellets.se/butik/commerce.cgi?pid=314&cart_id=1254962984.736 these guys import them from Spain. Then they sell them through dealers.
norrbottenstorpet: [citat] Ok, so you're first making a 'normal' room and then building a studio in it. Then I might understand why you'd choose plasterboard, even if I wouldn't have chosen it myself. It's becoming a room within a room then? [citat] A floating floor is a floor laid directly on a leveling material, traditionally wooden floors on a bed of dry sand. It's not a bad solution. Nowadays, you might work
gaia: [citat] Gypsum plaster is a good material for interior walls but not risk-free in an old basement. It tolerates moisture movement as little as a drywall. Even if the house is drained, there is often some moisture movement along the floor in old houses, and it's so sad to see new damages coming after all the work one has put in. It's too late for changes in TS's case, but maybe others will read
hemmapågården: Just thought of something that made me feel a bit silly :blushing: Could it be as simple as having concrete blocks laid on their "edge" and the holes are for potential reinforcing bars?
AndersS: Make an MDF closure from floor to ceiling if you are going to paint it white. You can then also nicely round the long sides a bit. No moldings at the floor or ceiling on the short side.