Building Materials and Construction Technology
sixten88: If it is built with lättreglar, it is not load-bearing; however, it should be load-bearing if it is built with förstärkningsreglar.
_chrille_: Hello! I've done something similar myself. I rented "stämp" as in the borrowed picture below. I did as shown in the picture with a beam at the top along both sides of the wall, so that they relieve the wall. How many mm depends on the construction of your house, the load, etc. I hired a structural engineer who helped me with both being the construction manager, developing the drawing for the
_chrille_: It should be in the assembly instructions what my distance to combustible material is. If not, talk to Jula. Once you have the measurement, you can then start looking for a suitable solution.
mk31: I'm in a similar situation. My hatch is at the same height as the plasterboard in the ceiling. Initially, I considered nailing the trim to the hatch. The question is, how do you handle the back edge in that case? If there's trim there, you can't open the hatch. What have you done if you haven't plastered?
Svanteman: 25mm what screwed on the side?? It might be that you need planning permission if you significantly change the building's function, as it is nicely put.
Kutte Heitmann: [citat] I agree. Call your insurance company or check with a builder who can do a moisture measurement. "How did you discover moisture in your house, and how were you able to sell it? Or did you fix the problems beforehand?" I discovered the mold when I was sitting on the floor by one of the gable walls and was about to connect the stereo. A scent came that I recognized but didn't want there. So
anderssoncatarina: Now it's almost time to repaint the kitchen. First, we're going to repaint the ceiling, which was poorly painted by the previous owner (it's streaky), and we've sanded and patched some cracks that have appeared in the "old" paint, which is just a couple of years old... What is important to consider when choosing paint, in terms of the paint's properties (i.e., not shades)? We need a paint that
anderssoncatarina: Thanks for the tip, it worked great!
BigBenz: Planning to remove my old water heater before winter, I'm fairly handy and therefore thought about dismantling it myself. Now to the question: does anyone know if the heater contains asbestos, like in the insulation or the bottom? The heater is an eryl water heater model. Year of manufacture 1975. Serial number 47164. Very grateful for any answers. /Robert
PCLarsson: not rustic in a functionalist house ;-) Start from the rest of the house and match in the same style... Best regards /PC
byggare henke: that's right and you can do just as you like... :-) you can just give tips
fidelie: My introductory mechanics course was "under construction" for some modernization purpose while we were taking it, I’m studying chemistry, so the literature consists of a binder with papers but very ingenious headings... But I will look for your sections :) Haha, or maybe they built it really wrong :D
MagnusRö: Interesting but doesn't directly answer the question as they mostly talk about the growth phase. I'm thinking of damage that has been widespread but is now drying out. Is the old damage worse than the naturally occurring mold spores for continued damage?
![[SKPG]Zamora](https://static.byggahus.se/forum/avatars/s/99/99332.jpg?1361526904){kind=avatar}
[SKPG]Zamora: Now I have spoken with the chimney sweep, 0.7 mm is the thinnest that is approved. But as the Photographer says, the sheet should be thicker to avoid marks.
Lagerlokal: Hello I'm planning to build some storage units in a basement and want them to be somewhat burglar-proof. I was thinking of framing the walls and then nailing on sheet metal. Does anyone have any good suggestions for suitable sheet metal material that is both thick enough and reasonably priced? Or is there sheet metal that can be used directly without framing? Or any other good ideas? Thanks in
lasmus: I've just started renovating our apartment, which I believe was built sometime in the 1920s. Throughout the apartment, there were painted, bumpy texture wallpapers (the kind with sawdust) that I just couldn't live with. Since I want painted walls, my plan was to remove the wallpaper, skim coat, and paint. So, said and done, after tearing down four layers of wallpaper, I reached something I
Tyresö: Everything depends on whether you are going to have an upper floor on the garage. The "byglarna" or as they are called: the baskets can be placed with c/c 40 cm, and if you have 4 "tolvor" in 2 planes, I think that should be more than sufficient. To be safe, call Ytong and ask what they think about that reinforcement. I assume you will cast an unbroken full-length beam for both doors.
Tyresö: [citat] As soon as you start using the demolition hammer on the slab, you have taken full responsibility for it! It doesn't matter if you know where the heating coils are - the demolition hammer fractures the concrete unpredictably - and you are guaranteed to break a heating pipe. On your invoice, there's the company's organization number, call the tax office and get the company's address and
RilleRock: [citat] They will be open at the top and half a mm of metal around shouldn't deteriorate it that much. But yes, I might be wrong. I will test with metal since it only costs around 300 kr then we'll see. Do you mean a wooden radiator cover? That, if anything, must deteriorate the heat conductivity? Looked around a bit and many have said just that. But sure, many of them are nice-looking.
MagnusRö: Sure, the gaps are so close together that there won't be any sway. I don't have any plywood, but I do have a lot of floor chipboard that I'm tearing up.
Helljonas: Currently working on fixing up the basement, pictures will come in due time.. we have bought, split, cut, and put up medium-sized slate stones on about 9 square meters of wall. Now we want to treat the walls to get a darker tone and to make it easy to maintain, what should we use? oil? wax? soap? I've searched a bit but can't find any concrete tips! HELP!
_chrille_: [citat] Exactly! nicotine damaged is what they look like...:@ Had to repaint my "newly bought" moldings yesterday...q(;^;)p
stefan_rk: Going to polish up the walls in a room in the basement. Around the windows at the bottom, there is a gap about 10 cm deep from the inner wall to the outer edge of the window. (see attached image) Should I fill that space with mortar, or can I "fill" it with something like mineral wool? Or will that be too soft and crack? Grateful for tips!
Ola78: [citat] I've seen both T-flex and Sika IgasPistolet at retailers where I live, but you're right that they are probably mostly sold in large quantities to bigger companies. At my job, we use T-flex, and a number of boxes arrive at regular intervals, so I buy mine there at a much better price than at the building shop. Additionally, it's the best construction tape I've used, it has amazing adhesive.
Tyresö: Exactly right! Air gap also in the wall. If you have an opening at the eaves where the roof gap and wall gap meet, then you're following the textbook as you should. Between the wall gap and wall insulation, you can use asfaboard - black side out. There is surely someone here in the forum who is more knowledgeable and knows alternatives to asfaboard.
whork: Is it glued? If so, you can use an oscillating multitool, like this one with the scraper on, find a seam and go underneath.. Then you'll need to sand off the glue residue afterwards.
Ola78: Talk to a constructor and ask him/her to look at your roof trusses. They can calculate it and possibly come up with suggestions on how you can proceed.
Ola78: Lifting my thread again, how have you others here on the forum attached the plastic to the chimney stack to make it tight? I've considered different solutions, such as carefully taping with T-flex, smearing asphalt glue on the chimney stack and then "pressing" the plastic onto it, but maybe the plastic can't handle that?