Building Materials and Construction Technology
lumberjack: Betz, I think your guess that the window is causing the cracks sounds very plausible. Here are some pictures of how it looks, the first is to give an idea of where the cracks are in relation to the window and shower. (the text boxes are a bit small, the bottom ring corresponds with the first detail picture, the middle ring with detail picture 2, and the top ring is detail picture three) Is it
nimhed: A tip is to use 45x70 or 45x95 on the flat. It will be stiffer than 45x45 but the total will be like with 45x45. Then I would choose the spacing between studs so I wouldn't have to cut the insulation.
math_a: Haha, you definitely don't want a Timell construction;) Now it's decided... råsponten it will be! An incredibly big THANK YOU for this valuable help! Now it will be correct and proper from the start!!!
anaitis: [citat] Often it is considered a bit too much deflection. 1/400th of the length is a common measure. In your case, that corresponds to 12 mm. I would go up a dimension.
Tyresö: You should chip away the remaining plaster on the wall and varnish the brick wall to bind the dust. Leave the milled groove as it is - it's patina - and the bare varnished brick wall highlights a history in the house and that's the point of living in an old house. You should simply highlight the old features in the house! If you tear up some floor mats, you're likely to find a super nice solid
Knifv: [citat] You need to scrape out at least 15mm from the joint, then grout with some fancy mortar (personally, I think regular plaster mortar B looks best). Mix the mortar for a long time to make it smooth, and apply it in the joints with a so-called grout trowel. The mortar should be mixed relatively dry to minimize splattering on the bricks. Work a bit at a time, and when the mortar is dry
Tyresö: If you want the staircase to feel stable and uniform without any wobbling when you walk on it (which I assume you do), it needs to rest directly on the concrete slab. Cut an inspection hole through the parquet flooring, chipboard, all the way down to the concrete slab. Measure how high, wide, and deep the concrete foundation needs to be. Create a form for your step foundation and pour the
Milkshaken: Thank you for the response. b&q Sure, I'm thinking along those lines too.... As for bathroom accessories, we have everything except tiles, floor tiles, and sauna material....
tallmilan: [citat] Nice, could we get another close-up picture so we can see how rough the surface is? (45-degree angle in backlight) :-)
Brannmark: Sitting and designing a machine hall with dimensions 10x20m. I was planning on a wall height of 4.5-5m. I started to think that perhaps I should calculate the size the support posts should be, due to their length. Wall description from outside to inside. 1. Corrugated sheet metal, TP 20 or similar. 2. 50x50 horizontal stud. 3. Windproofing 4. Support post, dimension ? 5. 50x50 horizontal stud.
ats: Thank you for the answers, it will be on top of the floor chipboard. I had already started screwing and gluing the floor chipboard when I heard this, Nice.
MathiasS: I mean that you should not use any plastic in connection with the siporex wall.
adam fors: hello don't use a larger notched trowel... the adhesive will definitely fill the entire joint and then you'll have h....vete when you grout later... do this instead.. lay the entire floor except where you want the mosaic the next day you level the local slope with adhesive so you end up about 4-5mm from the top edge of the tile then place the mosaic when the adhesive has dried.. for best results
SofiaIsobel: Thanks for the help! The records are in good condition, no holes or anything, so it feels unnecessary in a way to tear them down, but we might need to sleep on it for a few nights before we decide! So, sättlim. I'll keep that in mind!
JOW: Fritzki: you can use a punch or a drift punch for the last blow... a center punch might work too, but there's a risk of slipping off...
Milkshaken: Can't get the last part of the link, so follow the instructions once you have clicked on the link...
hecke: There are many different definitions of a safety factor, but for simple linear elastic calculations, it is not uncommon to use the yield limit as the permissible load and derive the safety factor from it. See the definition of ns below in the image. The reason is that residual deformation is usually not an acceptable condition for a structure. In other contexts, when for various reasons you must
Farzan: If you want to use panel clips, there are ones for screwing (screws included). Otherwise, it should be fine to toe-nail with small dyckert nails, at a 45-degree angle in the corner between the bevel and the tongue. It holds better than if you nail straight in.
Tyresö: Promise to submit "Martin Timell home improvement pictures" on the next item! It is quite entertaining to see the creativity that exists in finding shortcuts when "Martin Timell fans" solve problems in their home.
Kurtivan: We have tiles on masonite in the kitchen and we've had them since '86, no problems with things like cracked grout.
Fröberg: I suspect shoddy work (though I'm not sure) when it comes to the base plastering of our facade. Is there anyone who knows how plastering directly onto polystyrene should be done? To get a nice edge on the reveals, the plasterer has placed a board a bit into the frame. The gap between the frame has a dab of foam inserted to hold the board in place, and then plaster has been pressed in to close the
Bror: You have already received many wise answers, so I will share some of my experiences as a construction site manager. For a period of about 10 years, I worked as one and it was always on larger industrial construction sites. The job as a site manager is very demanding and stressful; often the job is about being an errand boy for both the boss and the construction workers. At the same time, it is a
modewski: The plastic is a polyethylene and an additive is added to make the plastic more age-resistant, also coloring the plastic blue/green. Do not recommend polypropylene plastic for this purpose as it is stiffer and cracks more easily.
Johan Gunverth: Leaf strainer + possibly cuff + a piece of gray 110 sewer pipe or stainless steel pipe under this.
petersson79: Has a basement with one meter thick stone walls. It's an old house, built in 1921, so it's properly built with real timber... ;)
marla32: I have similar problems and I chose to lay the records down. There was a bit of extra cutting but it's never visible anyway.