Hey.
Thinking about replacing the front door tomorrow from a crappy door to another crappy door from Byggmax.
I've never replaced a door, have no idea how difficult it is but I assume it shouldn't be too complicated.
But first, from which side do I determine if it is left or right hinged?
I assume the dimensions are for the frame?
As mentioned, I'm considering buying a door from Byggmax.
What do I need to complete it with?
Frame screws or whatever they're called, and some bits for the screwdriver??
I need a spirit level, insulation strips, anything else?
Then what's the procedure?
Best regards/
Thinking about replacing the front door tomorrow from a crappy door to another crappy door from Byggmax.
I've never replaced a door, have no idea how difficult it is but I assume it shouldn't be too complicated.
But first, from which side do I determine if it is left or right hinged?
I assume the dimensions are for the frame?
As mentioned, I'm considering buying a door from Byggmax.
What do I need to complete it with?
Frame screws or whatever they're called, and some bits for the screwdriver??
I need a spirit level, insulation strips, anything else?
Then what's the procedure?
Best regards/
From the outside, you determine whether it is right or left-hinged. The dimensions refer to module dimensions, which are the actual dimensions of the frame + 15 millimeters. Usually. Sometimes it's more. Complement with frame screw + frame sleeve, foam sealant instead of insulation, a 14mm wood drill bit can be good to have if the frame doesn't have holes where you need them.
Great.
Thanks!
And then it's just a matter of ripping out the old one and fitting in the new one?
Shouldn't be any problems.
If it's not pre-drilled, where should you put the screws in the frame and how many?
Best regards/
Thanks!
And then it's just a matter of ripping out the old one and fitting in the new one?
Shouldn't be any problems.
If it's not pre-drilled, where should you put the screws in the frame and how many?
Best regards/
By the way, found an installation guide
http://epi.byggmax.com/Documents/Produktspec/11/Monteringsanvisning 118100-118125.pdf
But regarding the lock cylinder, are all of them universal?
There are probably some lying around at work..
Best regards/
http://epi.byggmax.com/Documents/Produktspec/11/Monteringsanvisning 118100-118125.pdf
But regarding the lock cylinder, are all of them universal?
There are probably some lying around at work..
Best regards/
The most important thing when installing windows and doors is the BOTTOM BOARD (Window) THRESHOLD (door). It makes it incredibly easier if it is perfectly level... any adjustments that need to be made afterward become much easier if the bottom piece is level...
One more thing, I know many advocate for foam as a sealant, but I only use it for steel doors... For wooden doors, I am traditional and use insulation material, not packing it too tightly either... After about 15-20 years, you can easily adjust the frame if needed... But you can’t do that with foam in the draft gaps... Sure, foam is quick to apply and penetrates everywhere, but personally, I am against it in such construction...
One more thing, I know many advocate for foam as a sealant, but I only use it for steel doors... For wooden doors, I am traditional and use insulation material, not packing it too tightly either... After about 15-20 years, you can easily adjust the frame if needed... But you can’t do that with foam in the draft gaps... Sure, foam is quick to apply and penetrates everywhere, but personally, I am against it in such construction...
There are threads about the risks and disadvantages of expanding foam, you should read them before using it for the first time to avoid having a frame that bows inward. Personally, I prefer using draught strips like in the good old days 
Otherwise, you will understand how the new door should fit when you remove the old one if you are reasonably handy. Maybe a cross-measurement wouldn't hurt either?
A bit off-topic, but why are you replacing the crappy door if you're just going to put in a new crappy door?
Otherwise, you will understand how the new door should fit when you remove the old one if you are reasonably handy. Maybe a cross-measurement wouldn't hurt either?
A bit off-topic, but why are you replacing the crappy door if you're just going to put in a new crappy door?
Isn't it a 13mm drill that's needed for frame screws?MathiasS said:From the outside, you determine whether it is right-handed or left-handed.
The measurements refer to module dimensions, which are the exact dimensions of the frame + 15 millimeters. Usually. Sometimes it's more.
Complete with frame screw + frame sleeve, foam sealant instead of insulation, a 14mm wood drill can be good to have if the frame doesn't have holes where you need them.
Original question - "from which side do you determine if the door is left- or right-hinged" can still be tricky, not always clear what the "outside" is indoors...MathiasS said:
I usually think instead - which way are the hinges facing if you're standing on the hinge side of the door?
Edit: Saw that Milkshake already pointed this out!
/A
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Well, no success. The doors at byggmax are so damn ugly
But I guess I'll get one anyway. Hopefully on Fri. Best regards/
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