Building Materials and Construction Technology
Paul-Staffanstorp: Ok... The easiest is then to remove the tile strip... and unscrew the cover plates of the outlets... And dismantle the fan. If the tiler has been professional, they will have left about 3mm between the tile and the countertop. Tape as protection on the countertop before you proceed... Then take a Fein multi-master and carefully saw through the plaster just above the top tile and between the
Richard Andreasson: Thank you! Hope it's not load-bearing. Because it probably costs at least 100,000 to deal with beams and stuff, right?
Chrissofsweden: A gate with vertical bars can definitely look nice! On this one, it seems to be 95*95 posts, so what could the gate itself consist of then? 28*70? [bild] This one is a simpler variant that can be modified a bit as you like. Easy to build but you can see that it’s an entrance. [bild] Here you have a good construction guide for various gates (including one like the above but concave)
jivanoff: Check out Teknos Teknofloor... I'm going to paint with it myself this summer...
rolfw: Anyone have a guess on what it might cost (in the Stockholm area) to fix a problem similar to the one described here? It's a load-bearing wall where a previous owner made an opening and now the ceiling/floor has sunk down maybe a couple of centimeters in the middle. I suppose you would need to raise it up again and put in a beam, and I'm curious about roughly what it would cost to have a
FordPrefect: You have probably already thought about this, but the best thing you can do is contact the municipal chimney sweep who will inspect the work/stove when it is finished. He should be able to tell you how to proceed and what criteria apply to your particular stove. Regards M
ih624: It's just as good. Make it a little smaller so there's room to svetsan
Eddi Thomason: [citat] I also have that one. I haven't tried "a real" one but this feels just fine. Probably more cumbersome to use than a professional version, but it's quite affordable and gets the job done.
apotekarnes: I'm planning to craft a handrail for my stairs. I plan to use a birch dowel and make a straight handrail instead of a traditional curved one. In the inner corner of the stairs, I intend to carve a curved piece like this: http://www.hlf.se/econtent/img/bob_0188_jpg2.jpg. The question now is how do I calculate the angle for this curve. My math lessons are too far back for me to figure this out. Is
Yrrol: [citat] What about warranties if you start cutting the cable? I noted that there were two variants of their machines, 240 and 110 or whatever it was, thought you were on the safe side if you just took 240v... So all of you who have bought from England have modified the cable.. Hmm...
Arne999: I'm about to build a toilet in the cabin whose only "exterior wall" faces a conservatory.. The question is how I should handle the ventilation. The best would be if I could go through the ceiling and have a duct 3m to the gable. This is to avoid messing with making a hole in the outer roof... Is it okay to do that, do you think, and how do you do it?
newbee: Thank you most humbly for all the tips that have been received. / Daniel
Wand: Hmm on closer inspection I discovered that I must have gotten sunstroke :) if someone wants, this thread can be deleted ;)
magnu: What I suggested was reinforcing the existing beams with a 25mm x 25mm square steel tube. Don't spend a lot of money on it, try with one of the roof beams first and see what happens. You'll need to check with a steel company that has such items in stock to find out the cost. But the tube is probably not free. I wonder if there's a way to determine what dimension is needed? It might be possible to
KungAnka: Place a thin strip inside the cabinet that you screw in from the outside of the cabinet before mounting it. Now you can add as many mollys as you like and hit the studs with a regular screw. My old kitchen (built in '69) was done this way. Of course, you paint the strip white.
nimhed: I think 8 pillars sound reasonable. Bolt a 45x170 to the house wall and then you have two rows of pillars outside of that. If you use 45x170, it will support without problems with the pillars at a distance of 170cm. Maybe you should go with 5 pillars per row, so 10 pillars in total. You brace, of course. 30 pillars on 45 sqm sounds very stable.
gaffa: Thanks for the answers. :) It feels like you could cut a lot of weight with some form of water-resistant masonite, it won't look nice, but maybe you could dress it up a bit with thin slats. I have actually considered roofing sheet metal, but I thought it would be even uglier. Like a shed on the edge of an Italian landfill full of boat migrants, sort of. The thing with masonite is that if it gets
Mikael_L: [citat] I'm not really sure how important it is to insect-proof behind the panel, but usually, at least, you make it mouse-proof. You can buy those "Museband," extremely expensive metal strips. [bild] I placed such at the bottom behind the panel in the garden shed, since I have horizontal paneling there. [citat] Behind the panel, it's quite cramped; for instance, wasps are unlikely to build a
Arlamannen: Suspected it... Keen to try it anyway, if the damn thing breaks, it breaks. I'll try to build with clay mortar so I can take it apart and build something else with the stones.
carlbanan: There are pretty good descriptions on www.benders.se I don't think you need to cast underneath, a little finer mtrl should be enough....
Randulf: Yes, that might not be a bad idea. It will at least work on the ground floor. Unfortunately, the plaster on the upper floor seems to be slightly rounded. Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
Bricco: I drive quercia wine rack. Recommended.
Niclas Jonsson: 6 mm plasterboard is an option, especially if you want to take the opportunity to channel for recessed electrical outlets in the wall. However, it involves moldings, casings, etc. It is excellent to use gypsum plaster, costing around 100 SEK for 25 kg and lasts a long time. Mix a few handfuls at a time with water in a small bucket and apply; it can be applied very thickly (but with longer drying
Swappe: Go to a building supply store and measure, or alternatively call Finja or another supplier. Otherwise, call a serious building supply store (not bauhaus etc) and ask their professional sellers, they know. When I had questions, they were very helpful both at Finja and the building supply store.
friki: hi, I also have a house built in '56 with a cast altsn cracked along the sides higher up frost damages and even water leakage to the basement storage underneath. how did it go for you? have you sorted this out or do you have any suggestions as I am facing the same challenge. ;)
friki: I have a cast patio that has cracked along the sides. The patio is quadrangular and has a basement storage underneath, essentially an extension of the basement. Now that I've started removing the loose material along the sides, I see that it has been cast with concrete in different layers, with wet sand between the layers. I've also seen that there are small white plastic pipes embedded. Do you
BigGitt: It is good for larger fillings. In the joints, it is (in my opinion) best to glue a paper strip with fabric glue and then apply sand filler or another softer filler.
CraneIsland: I was also considering 50/50 but mostly thought that it might look aesthetically nicer with 25/25/25/25?! I need to think and do some tests to also find out how big the workload is, I estimate that I need to make about 20 joints.