Building Materials and Construction Technology
Paul-Staffanstorp: [citat] Hahahaha... Two 55s, one of which is permanently attached to the cms... I haven't yet found the need for the 75 for what I'm working on...
Bex0: Hi again... I'm renovating the barn and the walls are built with concrete blocks (?), looking like concrete bricks at any rate. The plaster on the inside of the wall is, shall we say, old and gray, and can be easily scraped off in some places. In some places, it's fine. But where the plaster is loose, the mortar itself is also a bit loose between the stones. Should I remove that too before
yens: No one has any idea on how to handle a megaconcrete slab under a bathroom floor??
JOW: It must have been a big farmhand who built it once upon a time then ;) Or change the layout...
hemmapappa07: Thanks - I didn't think of notching but it would look nice. The other options will probably work well, but I'd prefer it to be a seamless joint. I was thinking about whether you could "operate" in a järn by pre-drilling into the post ends. That combined with notching and gluing would be nice and stable.
Lindgrenski: Beijer has for example http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_ProduktListingFlera.aspx?id=65745
titanium: Converting a summer cottage into a year-round residence is not always straightforward. Some things you should check include: Is there ventilation of the exterior roof? If not, condensation can form with temperature changes. This can be addressed with vents in the roof ridge and air intake at the eaves. (don't forget insect screens when installing) Is there ventilation of the house's indoor air?
pemu: Well, look at that! Thanks for many great answers. Yes, I had planned to reuse the mold, so I made it detachable with formplyfa on the surfaces and pine on the gables. The idea is to oil everything before casting, so I hope it won't stick. The mold is just finished and the premiere casting will be anytime now (maybe tonight, if only the rain stops). I've never cast in concrete before, so it's a
Picke: We used slightly thicker spikband (metal strips on a roll), but a couple of planks will probably work just fine.
magnu: Isn't it possible to replace the foul-smelling part? That is, saw off the damaged piece and replace it with a new one. The beam might become twice as wide to compensate for it being sawed off.
Eddi Thomason: Steel studs are more expensive, but I think they can be installed quite quickly, though it also depends on the location. When constructing new, it's faster to cut wooden studs since you have a set measurement, but if you have to measure and cut each wooden stud individually, it takes a bit more time, whereas steel studs go quickly because an approximate measurement is sufficient.
JOW: Brilliant, that's how it will be. I just saw that there are only wood-steel screws, so using wood for all plasterboards will suffice.
Mikael_L: [citat] Oh yes, most likely. For the change from office space to residential, a building permit is required. And then the entire residence must meet today's current accessibility requirements. The smallest approved toilet/shower space is basically 1.7 x 1.9 meters in size. All doorways must accommodate a wheelchair. The kitchen must accommodate a wheelchair. A bedroom or a separable part must
Arne999: I have completely renovated an extension of the cottage. (The cottage is built at an angle with two gabled roofs, like an "L"...) Everything has been stripped down to the studs. The area is about 3.5X4 and the plan is to divide it and make a small toilet. Now to the question... The carpenter said I should put plastic sheeting and my question is what I need to consider. 1. Should I frame up for
myrstack: If you're worried about the point load, perhaps the same designer who calculated the beam and columns could take a look at it? Otherwise, you could always cut out the sill and position the column on it, but an alternative could be to place a flat bar underneath the glulam column against the sill to distribute the load a bit over a longer area.
renoverar jämnt: Thanks so far to those who have responded. :-) Perhaps I should add to my description that the part of the cabin that will have kitchen cabinets is U-shaped where all 3 walls will be covered with cabinets, so the question doesn't concern the 4th wall in the open floor plan. That wall is wallpapered today but will be covered with renovation plasterboard before the wallpaper is put on. I just got a
Dr Fozz: Plaster, painted walls, or similar. I wouldn't attempt to glue on looser plaster. I've mostly used smaller tiles, e.g., 10x10 or 15x15. About 4-5 solid clicks of hot glue per tile usually suffices. Expect around 500g for 3 sqm with 10x10. I've also installed 60x60 tiles, but then I used a combination of hot glue and PL400. The hot glue makes it stick after 30 seconds, PL400 makes it stick
Alfredo: [citat] You are probably right that Vim/Jif can create small scratches in the laminate. The question is whether these small scratches really affect countertops in a 1950s kitchen. I guess the countertops have already been subjected to so much over the years that the addition of scratches is almost negligible. I think Vim/Jif works great on an older "used" stainless steel sink. You feel that it
Alko: Exactly, we have brick houses (plaster brickwork, that is) and we have always used plugs/screws or nail plugs (the carpenters like these for baseboards, etc., I don't use them myself). Never expansion bolts except for concrete foundations. If you want an M-thread/bolt for flexible mounting (how often will you want to dismantle the screen though :rolleyes:), you can drill, inject anchor mortar,
Juhap: Great, thanks for the help! I have now forwarded this to the designer, I will get back to you with some info soon.
Elvis69: Or 120 mm steel studs on s45 and two layers of plaster on each side. http://www.norgips.se/projektering/vaggar-stal-db/vaggrupp-2-db/index1,1689.htm
foolip: I am going to close off a window between two rooms with an MDF board of suitable size. The other side is already closed off and I'm a bit afraid that if I attach the board directly to the studs holding the old board and tighten it until the new board is exactly level with the wall, there is a risk that the studs may shift, causing the wallpaper on the other side to crack. I want a small spacer as
Alko: Borrowed a great image from Fredwell from this thread (mirrored to fit my situation): http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/70764-pulpettak-garage-carport.html He has actually managed to place the tall posts quite far out at the edge, while the lower ones and the storage part rest on a base plate. However, I only have two posts per side, according to the drawn image above. Hope it
Ola78: So glad we cleared that up, we were both right :) Credit to you for admitting you were wrong, I appreciate people who can realize when they are wrong and admit it without shame. Have a nice evening :)
verktygsgurun: Adjust the spacing when installing new paneling so that the panels closest to the window become a trim.
Matti_75: I usually shoot with 50mm 18g brad nails into single gypsum on metal studs and it works well. The brad nails go through the track.
JOW: One solution is to go to your local carpenter and have new moldings milled that are thicker, so you "recapture" the thickness of the renovation plaster...
verktygsgurun: Grabber PTS is probably what you're looking for. The screw has hardly any head and becomes invisible, however, it is a very dur method to get the panel up with.