How to do at the gable?

[Huge Oh]

Hello,
I am drawing a house with a sloping roof and I am pondering on what to do at the gable. It doesn't match with an even number of rafters set at 1200 mm cc. I understand that one can "skip" a rafter and instead extend the gable studs and place the purlin at the same height as the other rafters, but the purlin needs to be lower than these for them to rest on something?

Hmm, can someone wiser than me explain how to handle the studs or rafters at the gable?

I am attaching an image, so perhaps it will be easier to understand what I mean.

 

[Ola78]

I don't quite understand what you mean. Either you raise the studs on the gable and angle cut them to the roof slope and place the ridge board flat on top of the studs or you put one more truss at the very end so it aligns with the frame underneath, which you can then cover with the facade material you're going to use.

 

[Totem]

I think the drawing is "misdrawn". Shouldn't the length of the standing studs follow the roof slope? That is, longer on the high side and shorter on the low side, and on the gables, it should follow the roof slope. That's how I would have done it anyway.

 

[andersmc]

Well, now it looks like the roof beams are hanging in the air at the front. Naturally, the front long side should be higher than the back long side, and the gables should have the same slope as the roof.

 

[Huge Oh]

Ok,
I understand.
I will correct my drawing. I'll get back to you. How long can studs be? Do you splice them?

 

[titanium]

You can buy studs up to approximately 5 m. But not all hardware stores have them in stock. Just don't choose too thin a dimension on the long timber and don't forget sturdy braces and horizontal studs.

 

[Huge Oh]

Does this improve it? It looks a bit odd because the hammarbands do not align at the same height in the corner. Otherwise, I don't understand at all what you meant...

 

[Ola78]

Is this better? It looks a bit odd because the rafters don't align at the same height in the corner. But otherwise, I don't understand at all what you meant...

Exactly what I meant. The other thing people reacted to is probably that you haven't drawn any struts for the roof beams, so it looks like they're hanging completely freely. Standard construction wood can be found in lengths up to 5.4. There is also finger-jointed construction wood in longer lengths; I've used it at work, but I don't know if it can be sourced at regular hardware stores. Another option could be to use kerto if you need longer lengths, though it is more expensive than standard wood.

 

[pbengtsson]

Finger-jointed is just a matter of letting them know a week in advance, and the lumberyard will order it, only a few kronor more expensive. I've personally ordered 8m lengths without issues for standing studs, and to clarify: these do not work at all for roof trusses.

 

[Huge Oh]

Ok, then maybe I understood correctly after all. But what braces could it be that Titanium is referring to?

 

[Ola78]

Finger jointed is just something to ask for a week in advance so the lumberyard can get it, not many crowns more expensive. I have personally ordered 8-meter lengths without any problems for vertical studs, and to clarify: these don't work at all for roof trusses.

Do you mean that finger jointed timber cannot be used for roof trusses? I've never heard that, I've been involved in making such myself. Finger jointed timber is classified as regular timber, or have I missed something?

 

[pbengtsson]

Do you mean that you can't use finger-jointed wood for trusses? I've never heard of that, I've been involved in making them myself. Finger-jointed wood is classified as regular wood, or have I missed something?

Oops, I specifically meant the free-spanning trusses that seem to be drawn here. I have such and got instructions from builders to avoid finger-jointed, so it was kertu instead which significantly raised the price. But it might be that knowledge about finger-jointed is not widespread and I got wrong info (and now I almost spread it further).

 

[Ola78]

Oops, I specifically meant the free-standing roof trusses that seem to be drawn here. I have such trusses myself and received instructions from the builder to avoid finger-jointed, so it ended up being kertu instead, which drove the price up significantly.
But it might be that knowledge about finger-jointed isn't widespread and I got the wrong information (and I almost spread it further)

d^_^b But now you've taken your responsibility The point of finger-jointed is that you can use regular timber that's longer than standard lengths to avoid having to splice. Splicing is never good if you can avoid it.