Building Materials and Construction Technology
Mikol241: Hi, I'm looking for a solution that will work well for our new kitchen. I will be laying a 22mm grooved chipboard as a subfloor with underfloor heating, and on top of that, I have bought Forbo's linoleum click-flooring (30x30). The flooring manufacturer recommended that we install a floating floor between the chipboard and this click-flooring because the grooves in the chipboard make the
andersmc: [citat] I have gotten the impression that it's the opposite. Loose timber houses are more flexible and move along, houses built of blocks have a greater tendency to develop larger cracks instead.
BigGitt: [citat] The one who doesn't ask, learns nothing. It is better to ask 1000 questions and do it right, than to not ask and do it wrong over and over again. :)
orionizer: Thanks for the response! I've measured exactly now and it will be at least 22 cm Styrofoam (better than 15 at least). A drying time of 20 days sounds reasonably short! Leaning towards choosing K40 from Weber instead, but it's the same type at least, so I assume the drying time doesn't change. I will also water the first few days if it continues to be this warm! Thanks again!
Matti_75: A console that folds in behind the tabletop when it is lowered?
aronlidstrom: preferably just want poles and not a huge construction. a crossbeam would just be in the way and something you'd hit your head on (unless you make very tall poles)
Kobolt: Thank you for the response. So in other words, I can splice the wooden floor joist at the old exterior wall and lay it on the new extension's exterior wall. I expect the basement walls to be masonry, not cast, but of course, the slab is cast. However, if the entire extension sinks somewhat despite this, don't I risk the self-leveling compound etc. cracking right over the joint?
Matti_75: Glue-laminated beam on the upper side of the tie beam. But you must be able to carry the pressure from the glue-laminated beam all the way down to the slab. Get a structural engineer to calculate that. It's not so easy when you're going to cut three rafters.
Heureka: From cremab.se: "Contains borate and ammonium polyphosphate which consume oxygen when heated. Conducts heat significantly worse than, for example, glass, stone, or steel. Reduces the risk of fire spread. Does not emit toxic gases. Same fire classification of constructions as with stone wool at the same thicknesses. Protects the construction in case of fire and provides a few extra minutes before
Skogiz: [citat] You say the load-bearing wall is 4 meters long, but it seems to be 4.5m in the calculations? Then it seems unnecessary to choose an HEA180 when HEA160 met the deflection requirement for the long-term load? Then a small stupid question for someone who knows: Why does it say kH instead of kN in the calculations? likewise mpA instead of MPa.. for the salary demands the engineers make, one
whork: 14 mm would probably apply if you were going to use chemical anchors to secure the bolt forcefully, but if it's an expansion bolt, you should go for 12 mm.
Avemo: It takes very special circumstances for wood, or anything else for that matter, to spontaneously ignite at 70 degrees. There would be problems with wooden benches in saunas otherwise. Erik
Hockhult: Never embed wood! It will rot quickly, Place metal or other dry dead material between the wood and concrete so they do not have direct contact with each other.
Anders_Nilsson: I will build a single-story summer cottage with a floor area of 105 sqm. Apparently, Eurocodes are applicable these days, and they don't seem easy to obtain. Is there anything specific to consider when designing? Building entirely by myself using loose timber. I submitted the building permit application a couple of months ago (before May 2nd), but the building notification will probably come
Björn S: When I built the deck, I got the tip to store the timber under plastic and water it for a few days (watered several times a day). Then I screwed the decking without gaps, it has worked perfectly for 3 years now. Björn
magnusss: What do you think about this? It doesn't get any cheaper http://www.blocket.se/stockholm/Takpannor_och_betongglas_bortskankes_mm_33376219.htm?ca=11&w=1&last=1
Ola78: I don't think it differs significantly in terms of durability; it's pretty much a toss-up. Sure, you may have a point in your thinking, but wood doesn't absorb water nearly as much along the grain as it does at the end grain, so I don't think it matters that much. Additionally, it gets the chance to dry up quite quickly, so it doesn't stand for long periods.
Tjuvkilsbyggare: Well, it's cracked. You can study it from the ceiling of the basement floor, but I don't think it's a problem. It's been like that for many years. However, I have horizontal cracks in the exterior walls (which are 2/3 below ground) that are concerning. I think water on the outside freezes in the winter and pushes the walls inward. I need to dig out and drain sometime...
V8dc: If you want tiles that are the same as the stones, go with the other suggestion (not mine). :) In my eyes, it will both look nice and last.
bureroger: Sound bridges, or so-called acoustic profiles, do somewhat to reduce impact noise, about 2-3dB. It's good to separate the top of the floor structure from the bottom against vibrations. It's important not to screw these too tightly so that the spring effect doesn't get "punctured." A single incorrectly screwed screw can cause issues. What is also important for sound dampening is the floor's
Bubblaren: When I redid the fireplace, the chimney sweep refused to approve an existing plasterboard cladding of the chimney. I had to replace the plasterboard with minerit. Check with the chimney sweep before you do anything, otherwise it can become unnecessarily expensive.
FrittDrag_II: Feel free to contact your insurance company as they have some opinions on how the premises should be designed. If the premises are located close to other buildings, they usually require that construction is done with fire class EI60 and there should also be firefighting equipment available.
brunolundh: For me, there hasn't been a catch, haven't even bought it every time. I don't remember if I was in contact with them directly or through a construction salesperson.
sankaboy: Hello, Regarding the requirement that the chimney must be inspectable and that you cannot attach battens, OSB, or plasterboard to the chimney stack. Does this apply even if the only channel used for firing has a metal flexi-pipe all the way?
parper: Hello. There should probably be tables for that sort of thing from timber "manufacturers" that indicate the load different columns of various types of wood can handle (classification etc.). So if you replace something with something else, it should be sufficient to include these as attachments or as references. The important thing is that it states the load the columns must at least withstand on
Locke: I think it sounds like a very bad idea to attach the swing to the wall. By puncturing the different layers in the wall, you create a risk construction. Also, consider that you get dynamic loads (the swing moves back and forth) in the screw connection.
Anderrrrrsson: [citat] Masonry of different types is generally quite heavy, so it should probably stay in place anyway. Possibly, you can drive in a dowel (like a piece of rebar) to anchor it to the floor, just to be on the safe side.
Jocce81: Mom has moved to a townhouse, which means I get the chance to practice some Handyman skills ;) Now I've got the project of converting a pergola into a storage shed (which is basically just to provide protection against weather and wind)... should be pretty simple! But I probably need some tips and advice along the way to see if I've thought it through correctly! See attached image! On the ground,