Building Materials and Construction Technology
Krillew: Hello! Hmm, chicken coop... you know chickens like to perch at different heights according to their pecking order. Then it becomes very dirty "pooped" in a chicken coop, so you need to be able to go in there and clean up... you need more height than 1m. I suggest something easy to clean on the inside, like plywood formwork. You should frame with cc60, so you need studs with that spacing; the
Skogiz: The moment load that a cross-section can handle, as hubbe2 mentions, is largely dependent on the perpendicular distance between the pair of forces formed at the upper and lower edge of the beam (the top side is compressed while the bottom side is stretched). Therefore, this is where the greatest stresses occur under load. Pass-throughs in beams should be placed at moment null points if possible.
bandy76: Hi, I need some advice on a ceiling, currently living in a house approximately 150 sqm, 1½-story, where we have Huntonit ceiling in about 90% of the house. We'll soon build a new single-story house about 160 sqm, the new house has a very open floor plan, so I'm choosing between Huntonit or large plasterboard. My thought is that it might feel a bit too "busy" with Huntonit on such a large ceiling
Krillew: Well, it's lucky that we're different... I bought a cottage from the 60s but like the 19th-century turn of the century style, so I'm slowly transforming the cottage into a villa. One floor of 50 square meters at purchase, now 2 floors with a basement and 300 square meters. So it's a bit more than just renovation... :-) A lot of it will probably become, as you say, cluttered. But as I say - with a
mehe: Have installed about 80-90sqm huntonit boards and spontaneously it feels like it might be difficult to slide the panels into each other due to the friction against the ceiling (at least those few mm you need to adjust to not end up completely wrong at the end).
Stefan N: I have it on my garage roof, works only up to moderate rain then it goes off.
Eddi Thomason: Won't it crack over time then?? I have sloped ceilings myself and it's at least a bit "flaky"... I was thinking of putting a metal profile behind the transitions to get the right stiffness! You don't want to have to apply latex every spring and fall!
woodrat: This one seems to be good! http://www.heco.se/dragkampen/ I haven't tested it myself as I haven't found it in the hardware stores.
nilsson.ph: Hi, I'm pondering a sensible solution to seal the concrete slab against the facade and prevent water from backflowing. Previously, there was a coved base in the concrete, but it has cracked and come off. Does it need to be recast, or would some aluminum or rubber strip work? /Philip
carlbanan: You can have windbreaker inside the garage and asfaboard or outdoor gypsum in the carport section otherwise...
SkaneErik: Hello! I'm thinking of fixing up the balcony with new furniture and some other things, as well as laying a wooden deck on the floor. However, the sheet metal railing is quite ugly, and I would appreciate some ideas on what to do about it! One idea I have is to let the wooden deck continue up, but I'm a bit unsure if that's really the best option. What do you think? :)
wintermania: Yes, it's true, deflection is probably the problem for me in this case. I will have the beam to switch off a ridge beam at the outermost part of a porch. It will be an open construction, so I don't want a W-shaped truss for aesthetic reasons. The ridge beam has a 2.5 m free span to the outer wall of the house and 4 m long rafters, c/c 120. Roof pitch 27 degrees.
micklen: Hello I'm planning to build a table and am looking for laminate that can be glued on. Does anyone know where to find it in Gothenburg? Best regards Carl
Enk Projektet: Here you can find most things, they are among the best in Sweden at this... http://www.obo-bettermann.com/se/pdf_kataloge.shtml#tbs
v-g: If there are minor irregularities, you handle it with the fix; if there are enormous irregularities, it's probably best to plaster the entire wall with mortar/plaster that is available in pre-mixed bags. So no matter what you do, it's just a matter of bringing out the stålskånskan :D
Fredrik.engdahl: there is another system that looks like reglar but I have never used that model. check out gyporc.se on undertak secondary profile is available in 2 sizes
MathiasS: ...just wait, it'll probably fall apart during the summer, you'll see..... ;)
Evalisa: OK, I think I've seen so many discussions back and forth about what you can and cannot do with a skorstensstock. The chimney sweeps certainly have a lot of opinions...
Helioz: Skim it with regular expansion foam, once it has hardened cut away so it is about 1 cm deep and then apply plaster over.
cgpro-se: We're going to buy new moldings for the apartment. The old ceiling moldings were made of styrofoam, which I couldn't imagine keeping, but the shape and size of them were very good and I would like to find the same or similar ones but in wood. Where can I find slightly larger, nice moldings? We checked out hornbach and they only had small, flimsy moldings. Anyone have good tips?
turmenator: Hello The house is from 1937 and I believe the rendering was done significantly later, but I'm not sure. Yes, I have sent a picture to a "pro" and he wrote that it seems to be a settlement damage and that it was just a matter of cleaning out half the joint depth from old mortar and adding new with hydraulic lime mortar.
magdan: Hello, I have stripped a siporex house that previously had a sheet metal facade with 50mm insulation inside. There are some damages from nail plugs and studs that I plan to repair with H+H's light concrete repair mortar. The facade is rough with a textured surface that looks like some kind of gravel or similar. The facade was additionally insulated in the early '80s and the house is from 1963. I
Mikael_L: And then the test: I inserted the disc into the bottom of the gap in the tool. A pretty strong scratch pbs (on both sides). Break -> perfect result. :) Then the 2cm plaster strip was actually quite stuck in the gap, and only broke into small pieces when I tried to take it out. :S But then I discovered a feature, which hadn't been considered during the tool construction. Since the shelves are
cederbusch: What I mean, Emilstjernlof, is that it might not be the best solution to have two types of waterproof layers in succession, regardless of the type. If moisture gets in, it has nowhere to go.
JOW: Yep, now I have all the info I need... Skruvstift is what applies... I guess there's some type of "head" on it so you can screw it in like usual.. Isolde: but that's a different type of fixture...
bengtf: We have an old (1957) concrete staircase at the entrance (outdoors) that is covered with colored plaster, 2-3 cm on the treads, thinner on the risers. The plaster has cracked in several places so we have now chipped away everything that is loose. In some places, there are also some damages to the underlying concrete. I would like the staircase to be completely smooth so that I can potentially
Bowman: Oh what great tips, thank you all! It'll be a jula-console on stone slabs!
trojlee: it will come off anyway... is the floor reinforced?... How big is the room? I would have broken out the floor and recast it with reinforcement if it is in as bad of a condition as you say... then it will be done properly and you won’t have to worry about the tiling turning out bad.. // M
Skogiz: Sounds like a good idea. Good luck!
copello2: We have now received the final construction drawings from the architect/engineer and have a couple of questions in connection with them. 1) The drawings are based on HEA 180 beam which is specified as the recommended size. According to the calculations, it states that HEA 160 is also okay. Is it allowed to use the 160 beam even though the drawings are based on HEA 180 (all else being equal, i.e.,