Building Materials and Construction Technology
martin88: I find myself in a similar situation.. So a bit curious about how it went. Did you figure out what caused the ceiling to sag and how did you fix it?
olofh: Are you sure it's a load-bearing one? Upload a picture of the house blueprints.
oddjobb: The vangstycken, on both sides, are those which are attached to the wall, post, or rest on the floor.
Håbbe01: Hi, I usually place metal tracks on the existing floor and ceiling, then clamp in wooden studs to hold it all in place, secured with a few screws as well. I use studs with c450 since I like OSB boards with a width measurement of 900 mm. 45x45 studs are sufficient. Insulate with 45 glass wool, no plaster or anything else. Paint if you're going to set a sparse panel so you don't see the wood
gbang: The sauna specialist sold an aluminum frame specifically for this purpose (I believe it was Tylö). Probably cheaper to buy one at a hardware store, but it worked fine and was easy to install.
Kirre2021: [citat] Based on the info I got in my thread about sound etc., I would open up, insulate, then close it again with 2 layers of drywall on each side. Also make sure it's sealed all over with caulk.
bossespecial: Exactly, however, it could be that the ground has worse properties than the cell plastic. I assume that the slab is already cast? What is the load coming down, 180kN is still quite a bit of load.
prototypen: [citat] The snow ridges you've made aren't exactly watertight; if you spray a little water for a few days, you get an ice edge and can spray properly, but it apparently sorted itself out. Then it MUST be snow-free when you spray, and it shouldn't snow either because the snow absorbs water, and it becomes bumpy. It can't be necessary to spray daily. A proper ice scraper is very valuable. Good
ekroth.j: [citat] Good thoughts, but in this case, the heat pumps are new and are located below the problem. This issue existed when we moved in April and before we installed the pumps this summer.
Anonymiserad 133197: Used the recommended paint for the plastered façade. We're probably switching to another façade. Have given up on getting the cracks sealed. Going with panel with air gap.
Utsliten och utdömd: You can at least lay the floor last, right? Just make sure you put the roof on before the walls. And the roof doesn't get particularly dirty during construction, just vacuum before moving in. We have the concrete slab as the floor so we couldn't wait and lay the floor last. Instead, we had to cover the floor/concrete carefully when the walls were painted and plastered. The concrete absorbs quite
Torpdisco: @torparavgrund The link was for the actual 4 mm form plywood, just because I found it when I was browsing through Hornbach's range, and I saw that you wondered if such thin formplywood exists. It seems you can't buy it in Sweden, but you can probably assume that your 4 mm pine board is untreated... If you only knew how many pieces of furniture are made from those in Germany... nice and reasonably
Mr.fluff: Hi, you buy an underlay with a finished damping mat underneath, easiest. Otherwise, it's possible to glue on any sealing strips. https://www.byggmax.se/ljudskena-zink-p20894
Mycketattgöra: Hello I'm planning to build a room in the cold cellar and use it as a pump room. One wall is an exterior wall, lightweight concrete, uninsulated. I'm thinking of casting a base, then metal studs, 100mm stone wool, and fiber cement boards on both sides. The ceiling is already insulated. The question is whether I should have a vapor barrier between the insulation and the fiber cement board? And if
justusandersson: Think of it like this (a little simplified): BBR is mostly about what's between the walls, EKS about what's inside the walls, and AMA about how to build the walls.
Octavianus: I would have used the 45x70 rule on the slab instead of 45x45. I've built that way before and it becomes relatively stable.
BirgitS: [citat] It might be that it only gets damp in connection with snow melting and other occasions when there is a lot of water in the ground. Silicate paint sounds good and then arrange the furniture so that there is no stagnant air along the wall.
Mats-S: [citat] That doesn't sound good ... you should probably have someone check it on-site. Does the water pipe run externally on the other side of the wall? And does it have a lot of condensation that can end up on the wall? When you say bulging, do you mean the bubbles? White fuzz ... sounds like mold, is it damp under the bubbles? I would expose the bubble areas to get some facts about the problem,
Bygge och schakt: Hi! Is there anyone in need of excavated material in the Gothenburg - Billdal area? Available for pickup directly! It is fill soil material. Best regards, Susanne
Galten: [citat] The room in question has obviously been used as a bedroom for many years, so maybe I'm worrying unnecessarily... But of course, a fully tiled bathroom with a large bathtub (probably skipping that though) has a completely different weight than a bed. I will ask the construction company what they think.
hempularen: No, just insert the magnet into the box, turn off the power first as a safety precaution. If there is space, it's good if you can insert, for example, a reduced box cover first, to protect the wires. There is a risk of damaging the wires if you don't use the hole saw lightly.
El-Löken66: Next time just tell the frugan that it’s not possible.
mangeroffe: I can add that I have filled some several cm deep holes myself with the coarser hydraulic mortar, 0-4mm) NHL 3.5. The craftsmen also fine-tuned the walls with air-setting CL90 (0-1mm)
Kalinikus: [citat] It's full speed ahead! After some chaotic dusty demolishing & sanding that covered half the house in dust, we are almost ready for the concrete truck! All walls were sanded down to remove as much paint as possible. Then most of them were plastered. Some will have inner walls with wet room boards to enclose pipes, etc. The guys managed to demolish/break away some stones that were sticking
Blab601: The Skugglist is available at K-Rauta, not Hornbach.
malm7825: Hi! We have not been to see the house yet, hence the vague description :). Thought if someone had a general idea :). Only gone through the inspection report :). Best regards
Plaincollar: Hello Planning to build a small bedroom under a slanted roof (see picture). Can anyone tell me how to frame the wall in the ceiling? I want to have right angles against both the wall and the ceiling. Another question is how to go about building these two interior walls without nailing into the wooden floor but with good stability and insulation? Grateful for tips