Hello,

I'm going to install OSB and drywall on wooden walls with insulation where the electrician has placed quite a few boxes. The boxes are of both the 1 and 1.5 variant.

I bought a Hole-in-one at Jula but does this really work with 1.5 boxes? Can you attach the magnet, drill, and then drill again more freehand based on the previous hole?

Here you can see what it looks like:

GoV1fIi.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GoV1fIi.jpg
 
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snowjim said:
Hello,

I am going to install OSB and gypsum boards on wooden walls with insulation where the electrician has placed quite a few boxes. The boxes are of both 1 and 1.5 variant.

I bought a Hole-in-one at Jula but does this really work with 1.5 boxes? Can you attach the magnet, drill and then drill again but more freehand from the previous hole?

Here you can see how it looks:

[bild]
[link]
It is not included in the package but there are special magnets http://www.elbutik.se/product.html/magnetsok-15-dosa-hole-in-one
Otherwise, you can attach the board with like 2 screws with the magnet at the top and drill, then loosen the board and place the magnet at the bottom and drill again.

Keep in mind not to use the magnets through several layers, as you might suddenly find yourself with one less magnet.. :(
 
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Uldis and 1 other
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oh, 500 SEK more! Hmm, need to think about it. But you'd think that if you drill 1 then you can drill 1/2 manually when the first hole is finished?
 
It depends on how precise you want to be.
I usually do as I suggested when I use double doses because one of my magnets is broken after the lazybones' antics.
 
Thanks, the drill template seems good, you drill a hole with hole in one and then one with the template. The boring thing is that no one seems to have it in stock in Kristianstad so I have to wait a day to put up the walls. Thanks anyway!!
 
L
Otherwise, you can do as I usually do. For I have not yet bought any hole in one.
I file a template from a piece of wood that I fit into the box. In this, I have drilled a hole that is centered.

Then it's just a matter of measuring and marking on the board you are going to mount. Drill a 25 mm hole (or similar) with a smaller hole saw where you drew and marked. Mount the board when all the holes are drilled and ready. Now you can take the hole saw and finish drilling, as the bit in the hole saw fits into the hole for the template. Yes, it's all a bit like drilling with a regular plastic template.
 
Jigsaw if you want to be precise or a hammer usually works well if you're going to gypsum over it anyway and the boxes are well secured.

The gypsum should work to cut freehand with the hole saw, it can also be carved up with a sharp knife if you've made a hole.
 
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Try putting the Hole in one 8.22 in the 1 1/2 box, but unfortunately, it wasn't very stable, so if you're going to use it, you'll probably need to tape it down. The size seems right otherwise except it doesn't clamp like in the standard box.

I've ordered the drill template from classe, but I'll probably still have to build on the Hole in one method, as it only has 2 pcs 8.22, which as I understand is a 75 mm box. We have quite a bit of electrical wiring in the kitchen, so in some cases, it might require 3 pcs. I saw that you could buy another 8.22, but at 180 SEK, maybe I should buy 2 base packages of Biltema's version instead!? However, a drill stop was included in the Hole in one original that I bought. I have no idea what it's good for, but it seems to function as an extra insert for 85 boxes.

What should one drill/saw with? I thought I read something about using a size larger in hard materials like OSB? So if it's 75 mm, you should have a hole saw that's 80 mm. Since I first have OSB and then gypsum, that should mean I need 75, 80, 85, and 90 mm hole saws? Are they available in adjustable models or do I have to buy 4 different ones?
 
B
The simplest solution I've come up with is to measure a coordinate at the center and then drill with a 74mm (junction box drill) in the plywood (or OSB). This gives you some leeway because the Hole-In-One easily gets damaged in materials other than gypsum since the drill is guided into the center, and in plywood, the wood resists so it doesn't go too deep.

Put up the OSB with the slightly oversized holes and then use the Hole-In-One on the gypsum. It works great.
 
Now you already have a hole-in-one, but I've made my own that is "customizable."

A round MDF at 22 mm that I place at the bottom of the box, and on it, I have glued a piece of Velcro. Then I have a smaller round MDF piece at 12 mm with the opposite Velcro, which has a screw with the sharp end outward.

So first I press the round 22 mm into the electrical box, which sits pretty tight, then I attach the small round MDF piece in the middle with the Velcro so the screw sticks out. When I then press the OSB (or plywood) board against and tap it a bit, the screw gets stuck, and when I remove the board, the Velcro comes off, and the screw shows where the center of the hole is.

On drywall, it only makes a hole because it is too soft to pull off the Velcro, but the hole from the screw is still clearly visible.
 
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Emil Stenqvist
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Have been trying to get hold of hole-in-one for 1 1/2 through local stores without success :( I can buy that saw template though, but a bit unsure how to align it? From the outside, you only see a round hole made with hole-in-one, you don't really know how it should be angled to give a perfect hole.

I think your suggestions for homemade tools sound interesting, but they seem to require quite a bit of work.

An acquaintance suggested that I smear paint on the sockets, put up the walls (without screws) and then take them down and use the hole saw to drill the holes? Sounds fairly simple, the downside is that you have to take the plate down again and it might be difficult to keep the plate in the right spot without the paint smearing?

By the way, I have been to Biltema and bought the following:

20-306_l_1.jpg
http://www.biltema.se/sv/Verktyg/Skarverktyg/Halsag/Halsag-2000016902/
20-307_l_1.jpg
20-397_l_1.jpg
2 pieces of these in 85 and 75 mm, is that correct?
 
Inspired by Lolights' post earlier, I will test using perforated tape where some holes are spaced 60mm apart with a centered hole that might be a bit too large for the hole saw's drill. This would require measuring with a smaller sight hole in the plasterboard.
A perforated metal strap is attached with screws over a circular black frame on a wooden surface, part of a DIY construction project. What's left is to trim the perforated tape so the plasterboard can be mounted and then remove the arrangement. Note - just an untested concept so far! Cheap in at least some sense, anyway.
 
If you aim your cross laser so that the cross is in the center of the box, you can attach the drywall and drill where the cross is.
 
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Level9 and 11 others
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O
F Fred vom Jupiter said:
If you align your cross laser so that the cross is in the middle of the box, you can attach the drywall and drill where the cross is.
Does it work? I'm just sitting here looking for the simplest solution and this really sounds like it. My problem is that I cannot use a box finder like "Hole in one" because my outlets are "occupied." As I understand it, magnets only work on outlets that are empty?
 
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