Building Materials and Construction Technology
roli: If you use tongue and groove wood with a thickness of around 20 mm or higher, they can span a width of 1200 mm.
mrElm: Hello. I have a house built in 1968. Flat metal roof. The roof has started leaking quite badly and I'm planning to use 3 cm insulation boards between the seams and Icopal Mono as a system. Since I will be opening the ceiling to see what damage this leak has caused, I'm unsure whether I should wait to apply the Icopal system now or wait until it gets warmer and first check what the leak has caused
justusandersson: Cellar cool means about 16 degrees. With higher temperatures, the amount of moisture that can be held in the air increases, and thus the risk of condensation on cold floors and outer walls. The best solution to this problem is external insulation of the basement walls. You will need to chip up the concrete slab (not so difficult when it's thin and unreinforced), possibly excavate a few cm,
MathiasS: Now I have a few other things to finish before it's time later this year, but if the decision is to finally invest a significant amount of money into a home theater, it will be preceded by a much smaller amount to an acoustic consultant who can calculate and tell me how to build the room.
Balthazar81: [citat] It turned out great. I followed the advice in the thread and it worked perfectly.
izron: Thank you for the clarifications Well, I will be using insulated ducts for ventilation, and I will not be putting a vapor barrier in the ceiling or wall I tried to find out the thickness of the existing wall insulation and whether there is a ventilation gap or not, but unfortunately, I couldn't do it. But I want to add additional insulation to the wall and ceiling of 45 milliliters because I feel
Peter2400: It will go great, just a bit expensive. But if you have plenty left over then why not.
Tomas Tomplast Gustavsson: Hello, I have what I believe is a plastered chimney breast with old wallpaper remnants. I'm considering buying adhesive and putting up a 90mm fire-resistant gypsum board over it, then regular gypsum board on the sides (after removing the awful masonite). I briefly spoke with a chimney sweep today who claimed that regular gypsum is just as good; can that really be true? When I light a fire—which
jonaserik: If you have a piano-type hinge, it should go all the way from top to bottom; short pieces become a bit weak if the gate is thin. I myself bought a children's gate, cut it down to the right measurements and have only 2, but it has a mount that it hangs on the other side and a small bracket underneath that prevents it from sagging when it is fully open.
RiverBear: Hello. I am planning to lay out some more particleboard flooring in my cold attic. What I'm stuck on now is the following: What type of particleboard should be used in a cold attic? I have found the following: https://www.beijerbygg.se/privat/sv/produkter/byggmaterial/byggskivor/sp%C3%A5nskivor/golvsp%C3%A5n-en312-p5-p6-kronospan I spoke to a salesperson at my local Beijer, and he claimed that no
V70pappa: They should be in the same places on the other plates, but those specific places might be hidden..?
xl15: As mentioned, I'm not worried about the weight since the beams have support underneath in the form of walls. Plus, just over 20 kg per m² is not worse than two layers of floor gypsum :D
Odla: Hello, We wish to take down two walls but suspect that they are partially load-bearing. I have found an original drawing with VVS. In it, part of the wall is shown as just a post, while the other wall is shown in its entirety. Is it possible to get any information about load-bearing from this drawing? It is the two gray-marked walls in question. Townhouse from '84 with wooden beams. The right
justusandersson: As far as I understand, that description applies to the laundry room.. I don't think you need to spend more work on this. Plattvägg is light concrete.
Hep: [citat] If you build during the wet season, you can put the boards in the garden shed and place a simple dehumidifier there for a couple of weeks. You won't solve all the world's problems, but you'll avoid the worst gaps. Though that advice may not be worth much now, unless building garden sheds has become your new hobby.
KjellTimell: Hello, I'm a bit keen on putting panels on the walls in the stairwell but I'm encountering the issue that the wall protrudes too much. The house is made of lightweight concrete, and it would require a nail batten of 22mm + the panel of 15mm. That almost removes the entire stringer. I'm considering if it's possible to extend the stringer in a good way without it cracking. Ideally, one could cut a
bergquist: Hello, we will soon start with our stairs, as the carpenters don't have many weeks left on our renovation. Therefore, I thought to ask if anyone has a good idea for a stair nose for pine plywood 4 mm?
cpalm: [citat] "Accidentally" drilled into stone? :crysmile: Lesson - never let unknown craftsmen loose near something you care about.
ToRy: Then I would have probably routed a recess on both sides, large enough for the washer to fit in, and deep enough so that the screw head aligns with the surface of the post/beam. I think this gives a neat result that looks professional. Note that it might not be the best solution if the routing is exposed to rain. Carriage bolts look nice, but there will be a problem IF you need to remove the
13th Marine: Visited the local byggmax this weekend and thought I would grab a couple of sheets of (construction) plywood, but refrained when I noted that the sheets were stamped with "Brasil," unclear if they were fully manufactured there or if just the wood raw material was from there. Am I the only one who thinks there should be suppliers closer by? :thinking:
thx1138: I have had to tear down part of the loft in my old barn after rainwater leaked in over a long period, resulting in part of the structure rotting. Now it has been dry for a couple of years with no signs that the damage is growing, so I think it's time to restore the loft. The floor joists are 100x170mm at 1.2m centers, the floor planks are 28mm and 35mm in mixed widths, and it's a little over 3m
Ludde Jakobsson: [citat] Sorry, does it show better here? So, it's the outer wall we're seeing that doesn't have any insulation at my yellow marking. [bild]
kaked08: Opinions on thinking like this? Summary after some forum searching and googling. We are going to enclose an outdoor balcony on an intermediate floor of about 6 sqm. It has two facade walls, so there will be two glass walls. Concrete bottom and metal railings. With the enclosure, the hired company will also add an inner wall of metal against the railing. But they do not do anything else. The plan
jj0nsson: [citat] I ended up making my own molding out of plaster. I cut out the profile in a piece of metal that I dragged along a rail. Reinforced with mesh. Fun project!
gedi: [citat] I did the simple experiment of taking a tuft of glass wool and holding it over a lighter. It doesn't burn (just as the fire classification indicates) but it does deform. So if it gets hot enough, it won't stay sealed. That's reason enough to get the right mineral wool instead.
FcDc: Hello, I have a few questions regarding the furring strips to attach a Huntonit ceiling in place. It's an apartment from the 1940s with a concrete ceiling that I want to refresh. It would also be nice if it dampens sound a bit. I plan to install Huntonit 300x1220 panels across furring strips of 28x70 attached to the concrete ceiling at 60 cm centers using 6x60 expansion nails. How close together
frutty: [citat] Okay, then I'll skip the idea of EPS. Is there anything else to consider besides spacing the joists closer for a strong joisted floor?