Building Materials and Construction Technology
OTG: Went to Tibnor and found this. HEM-Beam S355J2 | H-beam | Beam | Steel | Tibnor https://www.tibnor.se/sv_SE/St%C3%A5l/Balk/H-balk/HEM-Balk-S355J2/p/502003005232
Manganbangan: I have a Corroventa 300TT2 dehumidifier and I can say that it hardly warms anything during winter, it's not needed now. Since the foundation is sealed with plastic, the vents are closed, and the outside winter air is colder than the air in the foundation, the relative humidity drops significantly. At the moment, I have 3°C and 43% RH in the foundation. Outside it's -13°C and 67% RH. I will try
prototypen: What I've learned is that innelim is faster, relevant for professional use. Protte
cRiTza: Hello, I am planning to build a sleeping loft and want it shaped like an L. To reduce the dimension of the beam, I was considering replacing glulam with a steel beam. I am an amateur carpenter and know nothing about calculating dimensions. [bild] If I were to use a U-beam or UPE beam (is that what it's called?), what dimension would be required to span the entire 4300mm? There will be an 18mm
camelspin: Regarding underfloor heating, I remember that the uninsulated slab is the problem; moisture movement can occur if you heat the ground beneath. How sensitive it is and how small an area is "ok" I don't know. If it's a smaller area, it might be reasonable to do the work of chiseling away, tidying up underneath, and installing modern insulation before pouring it with the underfloor heating embedded.
Anonymiserad 282191: Fine expanding concrete will probably be good. For thin layers, e.g.: https://www.se.weber/betong/expanderbetongelementfog/weber-exm-701
Workingclasshero: Hello, I think everything looks quite cluttered. If you have the opportunity, I think you should tear it all down and redo it from scratch so it fits together better aesthetically. The stove hood is quite nice, so I would try to adapt everything to it, but it's best to remove everything and redesign it from scratch. Hope you make a good decision and good luck. /W
Tompafix: [citat] If you use 45mm insulation, you eliminate thermal bridges as mentioned. But if you want to save floor space, you can skip the 34x45 and place the electric in the 120mm stud. That's how my whole house, a '78, is built. You only save 0.000484m2 by choosing 34mm compared to 45mm.
mickeolsson: [citat] Thanks for all the input. We are also considering tearing off the sheet metal and going with papp to avoid worrying about similar problems in the future.
HasseTeknik: Then I guess it is part of the fire safety and must be present.
Nyfiknast: [citat] Yes, place a stud behind where both plasterboards meet. And bevel the plasterboard that is there now so you can apply a fiberglass/paper tape at the joint. Then finish with joint compound. It's not fun to do the job 90% carefully and end up with a visible crack afterward.
GHGH: Hello, I think you should read the sprinkler handbook, and maybe if you're extremely interested, glance at the standard when the handbook refers to it. Reading just the standard usually doesn't make one very wise.
DaLjo: It was studs along the walls but attached to the beams, took an eternity but it worked.
Qnap: Hello! Did you get a table? I'm considering something similar.
mojjen: [citat] It will likely have an impact. But you have to draw the line somewhere. It suggests trying to achieve 2x70 rather than 70 +45...
MayaP: Right where we are:) That would probably be safest. Getting the same smell after the new kitchen is installed and completed would be a disaster. I think it's more likely that cute mice have peed the floor to death...
Freniño: The installation wall is no longer a problem. No ideas for the joists for the loft? The trusses are not dimensioned to bear the load of a storage loft, so I cannot use them. Should I dimension the interior walls so they become load-bearing instead? And can I then place them directly on the floor chipboard?
allexx: [citat] Feels very weak with 25mm. I would use nylon plugs that are around 8x60mm when the strain is on the holder.
justusandersson: The most common feature of a gambrel roof is that there is a vertical support post precisely at the "bend," tasked with transferring the roof load. Since the trusses and the attic floor joists do not typically have the same spacing, the lower longitudinal beam helps distribute the roof loads onto the floor joists. In your case, the upper longitudinal beam replaces the support posts. The column in
Cdi: Hi. Planning to build my own sliding windows for the patio, where can you get alu profiles at good prices? Tips, sketches, drawings would be a good start/cdi.
90rammar: [citat] Sounds good, do you think I can use regular drywall screws even though it's hardboard, so that the screw pulls down into the material making the plastering better?
HammarClark: Buy an air-powered staple gun at jula or biltema for a few hundred kronor, works great for that
justusandersson: HEB 160 weighs 42.6 kg/m. Calculating at 25 SEK/kg including VAT, 5300 SEK is a good price.
Cdi: Hello. I'm thinking of building my own sliding windows for the patio. Where can I find reasonably priced aluminum profiles? Does anyone have suggestions/sketches/drawings? /cdi.
Mr Boop: Today I have a room in the basement that I plan to renovate for the teenager. There is no moisture in the basement now. There are inner walls and a floor installed. But I thought of tearing them out and building as correctly as possible. Anyone know how to do it the right way?
feen: Hello, I'm doing some minor renovations on a cottage that was fully renovated in the '80s! I might install a stove connected to the flue that exists at the "fireplace" in the picture, but of course, the dreadful brick must be removed, and it will be plastered to align with the older upper edge. That's what I've been thinking.. Note! The plaster, which easily crumbles, is also behind the wall
Viktor.J: [citat] thanks! it all ended with me finding very good information on gvk’s website. It states that it should NOT be age-resistant plastic. So I went and bought "thinner and non-age-resistant plastic" and redid everything.