Building Materials and Construction Technology
Perra Markusson: Thank you Pontus for the reply. I'll check out the great suggestions, just have to try a bit simply.
Tompafix: Yes, coarse filler can probably suffice. "One strike filler" is a pre-mixed filling compound that also doesn't shrink.
mangeroffe: Painted with Alabaster's crystallate on hydraulic lime mortar in the basement. Primed with their primer. Turned out great, very easy to work with and good coverage.
jawen: Drilled holes through the glue-laminated beam (long wood drill), then drilled holes also in the HEA beam (so the holes are aligned),,,, Then threaded rod, heavy washer, and nut so you can adjust as you like regarding the distance between the glue-laminated beam & HEA beam. Otherwise, you can ask a welding company to make rectangular steel brackets, which you secure from underneath the
JonasForså85: Hello. I have a small question regarding the installation of a glulam beam on the lower level of my house. It is supposed to replace a load-bearing wall. The beam is 5.5m long and has 3 support points. Does it matter if the beam ends in the middle between two floor joists and the end post is not placed directly under a joist? Best regards, Jonas
Fanjunkarn: I built this out of plywood and during the renovation, covered it with paneling and oak parquet. Made my own stair nosings.
justusandersson: The beam that replaces the external wall should approximately be 90x360 (alternatively 140x315 which is equivalent). I think you should hire a structural engineer who can assess the conditions on-site. Your model is a bit complicated and it's important to get an external perspective.
Globet: [citat] Those hinges are impossible to bend, far too thick. You adjust the door sideways with those screws (torx), I've encountered that several times, that they are stuck tight. I then loosened the hinge and hit the back of the two plates with a hammer, try with a torx screwdriver to see if it's possible to turn it.
OlofBromma: Hi Dann3, Did you manage to find any designer? I am also looking for one for simpler jobs and tips would be welcome. Regards, //Olof
TheImprovisor: [citat] That's my thought too. Simple, quick, and cheap.
Mats-S: [citat] Just speculating that you might have a "slow puncture" in a water pipe ... You need someone on site who can seriously check it out, water leaks can be super hard to trace Mysterious are the ways of water as it says in the carpenter's bible ;-)
Pumabjörnen: The glue on the floor joists is meant to reduce creaking and, for construction purposes, increase the stiffness of the floor structure by enhancing the interaction between joists and chipboard. Isn't it an option to screw down the plates and then use construction adhesive on the furring strips/plates instead of wood glue?
lillamälarhuset: We have taken down a drywall to reveal the chimney. However, the bottom part is not brick but casting, as this part of the apartment was previously a basement. What do you think is the best solution? Get hold of old bricks and brick around the chimney all the way from bottom to top, create some type of transition between the brick and the casting, or just "give up" and whitewash everything on
Ioo: [citat] Thank you so much for the response. I succeeded with the molding but haven't been able to find my way back to the thread until now.
Vermilion: [citat] Foam sealant sounds easy to spray into and then just plaster each side.
Pappa1986: [citat] If you can fix it yourself, it's not particularly expensive, but it is definitely extensive. I assume panel replacement also needs to be done, and the question you should ask yourself is, why is there rot damage on the sill?
Eyerash: Looks like reeds when it has snowed, and you're just about to fall asleep in the car. You should send it for analysis. It's probably safest.
tergo: Installation Instructions-Sealing Strip Model (1) (rm.se)
KimCarlsson: Currently building a sunroom, and it's constructed as follows from outside to inside: - Balcony slab extending from the upper floor with polycarbonate sheets attached at the front - Air gap of 40mm - Plastic sheeting - Air gap of 20mm - Stone wool 70mm As it stands, a lot of moisture is forming that becomes water above the stone wool. We placed the plastic to prevent moisture from the balcony
justusandersson: Yes, water damage is no fun. A thorough assessment must be made on site. You need to stick the knife into the beams to see how damaged they are. If they are not deeply damaged, there should be possibilities to reinforce. What are the dimensions of the floor beams? Disregard the firrings for carrying the subfloor.
justusandersson: The question is impossible to answer without having seen the building in reality. However, spontaneously I am doubtful. A stable needs a more robust structure than a former assembly hall. I suspect that the assembly hall is mostly in the way and likely costs more money than it is worth. Starting to excavate the ground inside the assembly hall is probably not a great idea. Check what the Swedish
Eyerash: Hey! Now the kotling is gone! It was nothing unusual. I don't have room for a new one when the new frame comes in, but of course, I realize now in retrospect that it was probably placed there to attach the gypsum to something. However, it was quite an anticlimax when the frame was out of stock at Byggmax. Being picky as I was, I decided to buy a new floor instead while I wait for the delivery.
mojjen: [citat] I think I will put a bead of sealant between the rule and plastic before I clamp it. That way, I've definitely sealed the plastic against the room/lower floor. In case it would be sensitive to air from the joist/floor below getting in behind the plastic!!!
bossespecial: Unfortunately not. If you calculate that the beam should take all the load, throw in an HEA120 instead. It is almost twice as stiff. Additionally, HEA100 is highly utilized in failure.
Vrakersberg: FG's proposal is not a bad solution and would provide good sound insulation. To achieve this, an air spring is needed, which you get with a dropped ceiling that is decoupled from the joists. A standard variant is to attach the dropped ceiling to an acoustic profile, possibly the site you linked should work in such a way. I know that Gyproc's acoustic profile AP25 works well. 2 layers of gypsum
Håbbe01: yes, it is just as sluggish as the one I mean. The width probably matters the most an example here, https://www.packoplock.se/plastfolie
Vrakersberg: [citat] The most important thing is that it becomes airtight regarding sound insulation. If you build the wall so that there is a gap underneath, it might be tricky to get a rubber strip to seal completely tight. It's probably easier to stuff it generously with insulation and then seal it with acoustic caulk from both sides. Alternatively, use plaster compound under the entire depth of the wall.
LimpTheGimp: [citat] No super weights, maybe an engine or when you need to support-lift the bike or something. Max 200 kilos can probably be said with certainty.