Building Materials and Construction Technology
gullegrizen: [citat] If you're so sure it's not load-bearing, then you can go ahead and tear it down without any further measures, but based on the information you've shared here, I wouldn't bet on it.
Angjo: [citat] haha! Yes, very sketchy :rolleyes: Yes, I just got a response. They said it's definitely a load-bearing forging that looks very homemade! They wanted us to remove all the insulation, etc., where the other walls are so they can see how we can attach support there instead. Feels like an incredibly overbuilt wall if it was only that little piece of forging that was supposed to be the bridge
calle.th: Hi. I have a perhaps somewhat unusual construction project ahead of me. I have an old barn, which was a pigsty many years ago. We are thinking of converting this part of the barn into a kind of party venue/hobby space. However, the area is large enough that we feel we won't use the entire barn section for this venue, so we want to partition it with a rather long wall so we can have storage
BirgitS: Always good to talk to the person who will inspect and find out what can and should be inspected.
ZeroKnowledge: [bild] Talked to the previous owner and they had only renovated aesthetically, not removed anything structural in the cabin. They bought the place in 2003, I believe, and it has looked the same with the roof since then. The house is from the 1800s, so it might have looked like that for a very long time. In other words, maybe I only need to check that the water passes over the eaves or whatever
etompau: Looks like a red Thorsman plug. Use a screw of 3-5 mm. A screw that's too large won't go into the plug. One that's too small won't secure against the plug's edges.
Rick.: Hello, I have a floor that needs to be leveled with self-leveling compound. It's an old painted wooden floor, 30 mm thick with cc1100 on the floor joists. I have received different advice on how to proceed. I plan to have water-based underfloor heating on top with tiles. It's in a Laundry Room and Bathroom. 1 Lay renovation floor chipboard. With reinforcement mesh. 2 Lay floor gypsum. Is
Satsuki: One can also paint on the structure and fracture surfaces to bind the dust during demolition.
Dr Benz: I think that will be best. I just need to check how long it is. It would be good if it is under 2.4m. But otherwise, I guess I will have to put a beam in the middle. Thanks for the info.
Janus82: Use classic 13mm drywall! 6mm drywall works but it's much more cumbersome to plaster and get right. You can easily get rings around the screws where the paper rises. It's only if, for some reason, the last 6-7 millimeters are critical that I would consider renovation drywall. Masonite is quite a lousy surface. The only reason it was used in the past is that there was no choice. You don't need OSB
salkin85: It takes time. A long time to dry concrete. While it gets moisture from the other side of the wall. Run for a couple more weeks, then let it air dry for a couple more weeks.
Johan456: You're unlikely to match it just by taking a photo and then buying the same color; the difference will be noticeable. It's better to repaint the entire wall. Small holes can be fixed with spackle and larger holes with something like gypsum plaster. I have no experience with the spackle you linked to, but it usually states a max thickness of 1mm for that kind of product. It works, but for better
Va-koom: Hi! We bought a 70s villa last fall and now plan for a sill replacement. Slab on grade with pressure-treated sills that smell. We've been in contact with a few different companies and started getting quotes, and although the price is, of course, high, it's all the additional things we don't quite know how to handle. This is our first house and so far we don't know much, so our questions might be
Bernieberg: Thanks! Used Kiilto Masa, so a bit sturdier than the simplest painter's caulk. So far, it holds up well, but no heavy loads. A few towels, bottles, and a speaker usually sit there. Cut the shelf to about 1 mm clearance against the wall and held it in place, then temporarily fixed it with some plastic wedges in the gap. Masked with tape to create a thin joint. First caulk on the top side, and when
Snickarkirre: Can't you screw them from underneath? Then you'll have hidden screwing. Then you can both screw and glue! If you’re going to glue, go with wood glue; it's the strongest.
Kurtivan: Check here for ceiling moldings and mitering, there is a section that deals with slanted ceilings: http://hvilaro.blogspot.com/2008/07/gering-taklist.html
snoddas2: It's quite a common procedure on Älvsbyhus, example here: http://bohlins-bmm.se/2017/02/isolerad-overvaning-i-skogas/#jp-carousel-1203 (If I may guess, that's a 90x315-beam) I would recommend joining the group Vi som byggt/äger ett Älvsbyhus on Facebook and asking there, surely someone has done that.
VidarH: How would it feel if you placed a custom-cut board between the tabletop and the wall, naturally on both sides of the window? With a nice grain and contrasting color, I think it could become an exciting and decorative element of craftsmanship...
Okarlsson: Do you need to cast? Can't you just block off the door opening, seal the outside somehow just in case, and fill with mass?
useless: Far too coarse to be asbestos. Hard to see in the picture, but it looks like some kind of natural material?
Mutther: Hello, I'm looking to see if anyone has good tips according to modern standards. I'm not particularly knowledgeable about any standard, so please bear with me. I've removed all the insulation and taken down the plasterboard (double sheets for some reason). The studs and sill need to go as well. After that, I'll rebuild. I'm doing this because of the chloranisoles. That gas that forms when treated
Raskus: [citat] That is also not correct, the prices are not updated, you have to call and ask.
Taxture: Seems to be more work to set up those boards than to plaster directly on the wall... In the film, he "fully plasters" with "lera" afterwards?
peter.linkan: Hi! We are going to repaint the workshop in the basement because the paint had peeled off the walls. I scraped off the paint, and a lot came off. The plaster on the wall is very loose - just touching or brushing it a bit causes it to fall off like dust or sand. Now I'm going to plaster the wall before we paint. The question is - can I plaster directly on the wall, or should I first apply a slurry
nickie88: Hello! After I filled with foam sealant, I added Kalkbruk that I had used for the brick wall and let it fill in as much as possible, then I applied fine filler on top of it. The result was quite good, although it took a little while to dry before I could apply filler again.
mattoys: [citat] If you are building from scratch and have special constructions where you need to notch etc., you naturally need to show that in a detail view. Otherwise, the framework is set with c-c 60.
torparavgrund: [citat] A regular masonry hammer and maybe a crowbar will do fine. NOTE!!! High-quality breathing protection with a P3 filter is a must, no small paper sheet with strings will do. The stone dust is very fine and passes straight through paper masks and settles in the lungs. Google "stendammslunga" and you'll know what I mean. And while you're at it, remember to check that any vacuum cleaner has