Hello!
I've bought my first house & am in the midst of demolition. The walls are in råspont, and previously there was only 3mm masonite on top. Now I'm considering what to do. The practice seems to be 13mm drywall and spackling. What would be the difference if I only use 6mm renovation drywall, OSB, or new masonite instead? Pros/cons of different materials would be great.
Also, grateful for tips on how to approach behind the kitchen cabinets since drywall doesn't have great load-bearing capacity. Is it enough if I use long screws that go through the drywall and into the råspont, or do I need to reinforce with additional OSB or similar behind the drywall?
I've bought my first house & am in the midst of demolition. The walls are in råspont, and previously there was only 3mm masonite on top. Now I'm considering what to do. The practice seems to be 13mm drywall and spackling. What would be the difference if I only use 6mm renovation drywall, OSB, or new masonite instead? Pros/cons of different materials would be great.
Also, grateful for tips on how to approach behind the kitchen cabinets since drywall doesn't have great load-bearing capacity. Is it enough if I use long screws that go through the drywall and into the råspont, or do I need to reinforce with additional OSB or similar behind the drywall?
surris
Construction veteran
· Sverige
· 1 692 posts
surris
Construction veteran
- Sverige
- 1,692 posts
6mm gypsum cannot be placed directly against a stud wall; it is usually installed when there is a full-covering wall behind it. Just like with the wood paneling, it works with both 6 or 13mm. The 6mm gypsum is often chosen when keeping moldings/trims in place in a room being renovated, as the gypsum doesn't extend beyond the molding. Depending on what surface finish you plan to use, gypsum is standard for wallpaper and painting. Masonite works, as was done in the past. OSB is not suitable for wallpapering/painting.
Behind kitchen cabinets, you can use gypsum, but they must be secured into the wood paneling/studs.
Behind kitchen cabinets, you can use gypsum, but they must be secured into the wood paneling/studs.
Homeowner
· Västernorrland
· 2 532 posts
A tip is to always have some kind of sub-sheet like 11mm OSB before 13mm drywall if you don't, as shown in your picture. I would never put up only drywall where you know you'll hang something heavier. You will deeply regret it regardless of whether there are drywall anchors or similar that can handle the weight. But with a plank wall like that, I would still risk using 13mm with thinner, so that it doesn't become wavy.
There is an alternative, a wall panel that you can paint and wallpaper from Huntonit. I bought it at Bauhaus, a bit more expensive but sometimes you just don't feel like plastering
I made a wall that I put up with it directly on a stud wall. It's a thicker masonite and painted white, almost like a floor you put on the wall.
There is an alternative, a wall panel that you can paint and wallpaper from Huntonit. I bought it at Bauhaus, a bit more expensive but sometimes you just don't feel like plastering
I made a wall that I put up with it directly on a stud wall. It's a thicker masonite and painted white, almost like a floor you put on the wall.
Use classic 13mm drywall!
6mm drywall works but it's much more cumbersome to plaster and get right. You can easily get rings around the screws where the paper rises. It's only if, for some reason, the last 6-7 millimeters are critical that I would consider renovation drywall.
Masonite is quite a lousy surface. The only reason it was used in the past is that there was no choice.
You don't need OSB as the tongue and groove is excellent for attaching heavy things. Just use appropriately long wood screws so that they fasten securely in the tongue. Our house is built the same way with prefab sections of tongue and groove, and from experience, it can be good to check if the sections are properly fastened to each other and to the floor. In some areas of our house, they were a bit poorly nailed together and the wall was a bit wobbly. A couple of extra screws steadied everything up.
6mm drywall works but it's much more cumbersome to plaster and get right. You can easily get rings around the screws where the paper rises. It's only if, for some reason, the last 6-7 millimeters are critical that I would consider renovation drywall.
Masonite is quite a lousy surface. The only reason it was used in the past is that there was no choice.
You don't need OSB as the tongue and groove is excellent for attaching heavy things. Just use appropriately long wood screws so that they fasten securely in the tongue. Our house is built the same way with prefab sections of tongue and groove, and from experience, it can be good to check if the sections are properly fastened to each other and to the floor. In some areas of our house, they were a bit poorly nailed together and the wall was a bit wobbly. A couple of extra screws steadied everything up.