Building Materials and Construction Technology
klaskarlsson: In a conservatory, I avoid plastic. For plastic to be useful, it must be completely sealed (walls+floor+ceiling), and the warm temperature must always be on the inside. An outdoor area, at least in my case, is not heated and can easily become colder than outdoors (resulting in reverse condensation if there is plastic). Some kind of insulation in the ceiling is probably good, and definitely an air
peter.linkan: Hi! I'm in the process of renovating the workshop in the basement. The paint was peeling in many places, so I scraped it off, and almost all the paint in the room came off. The plaster underneath was so nice and came off easily; if you just brushed or stroked it a little, it fell off like fine sand. I was therefore advised to first mix plaster very loosely/watery and apply it with a slamming
Jarlsgård: [citat] I can honestly say that I don't remember :crysmile: The thoughts now, if we are going to build, are rather for a fully bricked house, i.e., both the back wall and facing wall in brick :cool:
KalRaoXX: [citat] Thanks for the information, even though it wasn't related to my question. I am aware of the requirement, the staircase in the picture is not my staircase but an image from the internet. In my staircase, there is 8 cm between the steps but it's open, and I want the steel rod setup between the treads instead of a regular riser. Do you know where I can get it?
Luddis_1: Drill from above straight down through the ceiling beam and into the post, then fill with appropriate glue/anchor compound and insert threaded rod which you then fasten with a washer and locknut.
peter.linkan: Asbestos can also be found in carpet adhesive. I think I'll leave that flooring in place for now until I've done a test... Thank you very much for your help and attention to this!
Freniño: [citat] Standard position. It requires a significant margin of error for it to even be relevant. What are you getting at? It was mentioned in a previous post that it's the same inclination all the way.
Trafikverket1: [citat] Yes, it's cc 30. Glad you think it's overkill! However, since I don't have much experience, I will follow the installation instructions and at least block around for the new subfloor :D
Patzie: but regardless, if we are talking about a villa foundation where you do not have insulation above the concrete (elevated floor), then just go for it.
Snickarkirre: Okay, there are no trusses to take advantage of? Yes, if you put one in each stud to the subroof, they should hold. Otherwise, you can go up to 45x70. Yes, it might be an advantage not to reach the ground floor when you're insulating ;) but are you only going to be up there when insulating, or will you use the space for something else? Unfortunately, I don't know anything about calculations or
Dracula: [citat] yeah maybe. I'm not going to tile, just get some surface and then paint. However, I want this cemented surface for better durability. Spackle won't do.
komakino: [citat] Thanks for the response! I suspected that might be the case. I'll see if I proceed with the project; I thought of having the horses in open stabling and just need to fix a sick bay, so I think there are simpler and cheaper solutions than trying to fix this ceiling height if that's the case. Half of the barn consists of a simple wooden part that is already open to the ridge, so it will
Utdelning: [citat] Pine as a wood species is very soft. You will have to live with a lot of scratches and marks due to the dogs. A hard wax oiled surface is good because you can treat specific spots on the floor if it looks bad in a certain area. If you want better protection for the surface, lacquer is the way to go, but you can't touch up specific spots on the floor if it gets worn out in a certain place.
sunnis: If the general cormorant has battens on the short end, it can work. Mud with paper strips and be very careful. If it still goes wrong, you can cover the ceiling with fabric/microlith as plan B. Even if you set plasterboard "right," you can still get cracks. And if there's just a crack, you can fix it with more paper strips and mud it out. But how does one have the energy to batten a spaced
sunnis: [citat] Yes, that makes it a bit more difficult. It's no problem to execute, but it might be a good idea in this case to consult a structural engineer to get it properly dimensioned. If it's a bathroom, it's not just a matter of redoing it if there is a settlement...
NightRider: [citat] Thanks! And nice drawing compared to my scribbles... :) Unfortunately too late, I've already been shopping... Changed the construction so that it will be roughly as you drew, but with 8 roof beams and then "battens" on top of that. My original idea was to have the longitudinal joists between the roof beams, but realized that it involves significantly less measuring and sawing if I have
tensiden: [citat] In the picture below, it's the measure 43 you should use. Moelven sells to a number of building merchants, so you need to find one nearby that carries Moelven's range, and it should be on the shelf. Buy a piece of trim in the length you need. [bild]
jonaserik: There's probably an iron at the bottom of the opening, and then the question is how far in it goes on the wing. 4 cm isn't much, most likely the iron goes in as far as the stone visible there. They usually aren't that stingy. Place a support in the middle of the part that is towards this side of the photo and chisel out at the top edge towards the outside, a narrow groove towards the outside,
scorp1on: Absolutely, TS is welcome to specify the conditions if they want a more detailed answer.
mojjen: Hello! I'm helping my dad finish an extension that was started many years ago on his summer cottage. The control plan states that a moisture measurement protocol should be attached. Such a protocol has not been prepared. Since it's about a structure that has been standing for almost 10 years (extended building permit), and a cottage that I will continue to manage when my dad can't anymore, I have
pokasd: [citat] Thank you, that helps me understand the drawing a bit better! Do you also know what rests on these beams? Can it really be that the thin hollow ceiling is on top? Do you have any rough estimate of what such a replacement might cost? Who should be contacted for that?
pokasd: [citat] do you mean attaching from above? Possibly something is attached through the ceiling, but I don't see what it could support if there's a thin felt roof in between
Matti_75: It looks best if you buy, for example, 12x56mm baseboard for the higher floor and 12x70mm which you cut down to 12x64. Then simply miter these together and the top edge will be even despite the difference in floor thickness. Cut on the side that faces down towards the floor.
Sputnic: The beam replaces a previous support that already existed in the form of a load-bearing internal wall, so no new support has been added. What happens is that the floor structure becomes divided. Each beam then rests on two supports. An intermediate beam or a beam with two supports bends more than when the beam is whole and rests on three supports. It's said that a beam on three supports is
Johan Gunverth: https://psauction.se/auction/31817/avyttring-hoganas-kakel-del1 https://psauction.se/auction/31822/avyttring-hoganas-kakel-del2 For those who need to supplement.
Jocke Best: Or put up a photo wallpaper with just a bunch of doslock, including one real one:cool:
Mattias Mattsson: Thanks again! Is there anything to be worried about? If it's just cracks in the plaster, it shouldn't be a major threat to the construction.
Mats-S: Take a thin drill and "probe" where you plan to hang the sack. That way you'll find out what there is to attach to. I guess it's wooden beams that have been covered with plasterboard to create a "cleaner" ceiling.