Building Materials and Construction Technology
para: It will result in a stiffer floor with less creaking if you glue the chipboard to the joists as you should. Now you won't get any interaction at all. In the bathroom, no plates are needed. Attach the hose to the reinforcement and just use self-leveling compound.
Fel av Åke: I would cut strips of plywood instead. But maybe someone else has an idea and can answer your original question.
JanneJanne123: [citat] Depends entirely on what kind of plaster it is. Try with a drywall screw and see if it goes through the plaster fairly easily, otherwise, use PL600.
robinjoensuu: That's what I thought. Thanks!
Tååmten: [citat] No, it is a pure wood material as far as I understand. Good insulation values. Must have been convenient to build with. [bild]
sarsag: We are considering building a vacation home and are looking at various options. Seen many houses with plywood walls, does anyone know how the walls are usually constructed? Not the bathroom primarily, but the other interior walls. Thinking about studs and layers. Interested in hearing about exterior walls and wet rooms too if anyone finds it fun to talk about walls.
Segerlund: From what I've read, glulam is required since I want a larger distance between the columns. That's why I'm asking here if I've thought correctly both when I checked with the sizing guide and similar tables. I prefer to over-dimension a bit to get a more stable (I think?) structure. The columns are made either of 90x90 glulam or 115x115 glulam, both work well, aesthetics will decide.
RasBen: Hi, has anyone used Klimex Unicol? I bought 15 kg. But now I realize there is almost no information about the product at all, what should the mixing ratio be? Somewhere I managed to find a reference to 5 L per bucket, but since the product is sold in different buckets, I don't put much trust in that. Does it work on gypsum? The product only mentions mineral substrates Thanks for the answers!
Tompafix: We have 45mm walls. I did what they just described with the difference that I used OSB to stiffen the walls. Double gypsum is better from a soundproofing perspective. I noticed a clear difference in sound transmission afterward. The wall acted a bit like a resonance box before.
Derbyboy: The height I have to work with is 430 mm and then it becomes: 180 primary beam 180 secondary beam 26 profile Then the secondary beams are at an angle, so they rise a few cm behind the primary beam. Additionally, I need a few cm to attach the sheet to the existing eaves.
ThiasGbg: [citat] I think it sounds unnecessary, he's just going to repair, not build an ISO house. His house will not be approved for it. Just a waste of money.
stefan_o: We have a split-level villa built in 1988. In the lower floor, there is 22 x 95 mm spaced paneling and on that 6.5 x 280 x 1800 mm ceiling panels in masonite (it was primed white from the factory). After about 20-25 years, the ceiling in one bedroom started to sag. I pressed it up and fastened it with staples (Rapid 34 gun and probably 10.6 x 14 x 1.3 mm staples). I removed a ceiling molding to
Tompafix: A potential improvement might possibly be a new handrail that follows the shape of the spiral staircase. I can imagine that the knobs might be in the way and having a handrail that goes straight when the staircase curves is not the best.
DonCorleone: [citat] [citat] What a great observation by you! Thanks for that :) Looks exactly like Wellit.
johanna79: [citat] 1975 are the numbers inserted, but the house is from 1865
Tomtom79: Try blowing into the pipe. If there's no resistance to build up pressure, you can always connect a leaf blower, compressed air hose, or similar and blow a little moderately. Then take a walk around (on a non-stormy day) and see if you can hear where it's blowing. :-)
Demmpa: Seems to be built the same way as it was with us. Yes, remove the underlying wooden parts, there are probably wooden blocks underneath to align the frame and set it at the right height level. Remove all wood that is below the floor level. Cut off the frames flush with the existing floor, and use self-leveling compound/cast under the frames.
jakobmagnusson: [citat] Found this one: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/dp/B07H5DR82Y?psc=1&smid=A26FRN1T6ZMEY7&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp
kesue: Have also done the equivalent. Ventilation and drainage from the neighbor above were behind the plaster but lay quite nicely along the ceiling. A recommendation is to cut a hole and check what's behind. Before our renovation, we cut a hole to investigate the conditions and then put a white Inspektionslucka until we started building.
Bernieberg: [citat] Maybe I'm missing something, but it seems fairly simple to notch the top plate for the beam? Score with a circular saw and chisel away the remaining part, or rout it down with a hand router. If you're reasonably careful it will be a flat and nice support. One aspect if you're thinking about laying the floorboards on the beam is the tolerances. The wood guide specifies +4 mm to -2 mm on
klaskarlsson: [citat] I'm not sure why particle board would be preferred on a boat? They are extremely moisture-sensitive... But as mentioned, there are plenty of boards made for wet areas that are supposed to withstand moisture better than both drywall and particle board, and be rigid...
Byggsnyggen: Platonmatta?
Marrebanan: You are right about that. It doesn't hurt to have a little reflection during the journey on such an important detail, I thought. But if I rephrase the question a bit, it looks like there will be a hole going straight up to the attic, does that match what was expected?
Screew: [citat] When plywood expands, it has to go somewhere, which usually causes creaking, etc. Gypsum is inert, so I do it edge to edge. But if it's only 5 joints, it might be worth taking it down and doing it right.
RasBen: I am going to put up a decorative wall with white bricks indoors in my apartment. The floor was laid a couple of years ago and is impossible to remove without having to demolish several rooms. The wall differs in length and height depending on which corner you are in, so I can't start directly from the floor as it would result in uneven brick rows and not look straight. There is a difference of
ArneTW: I would have built on top so that it can be easily restored. A sound expert will probably show up eventually... /ATW