Building Materials and Construction Technology
torparavgrund: [citat] A regular masonry hammer and maybe a crowbar will do fine. NOTE!!! High-quality breathing protection with a P3 filter is a must, no small paper sheet with strings will do. The stone dust is very fine and passes straight through paper masks and settles in the lungs. Google "stendammslunga" and you'll know what I mean. And while you're at it, remember to check that any vacuum cleaner has
Slarvpellen: Hello, I'm about to build a hobby garage where I plan to have a recessed scissor lift (I chose the Jema JA601S), have received help with building permits and construction drawings, and this has been on hold for a while, but now I've received the go-ahead and am in the starting phase to begin. However, I've started to reconsider the choice of solution and just wanted to discuss here to get some
Bjarnen: Hello, A relative had a leak from an old radiator on the second floor where the water ran through the floor and down into the ceiling below. The room where the leak happened has linoleum, so the water continued until it reached the closet where the linoleum ends and the wood begins, and then it ran through. Now we have opened a part of the ceiling and emptied the part of the insulation material
Skoough: Hello! I recently bought a villa built in 1980 and we received the keys at the beginning of February. Our first project was the living room, where we planned to quickly and smoothly repaint the walls. It soon escalated to laying renovation plasterboard (6mm) over the old particleboard walls when we realized they were quite uneven and there was a lot of cracking in the old surfaces around windows
Screew: Just make sure the brad nail goes through all the layers, they should be in wood that is probably hidden. But it might be good to check that there is something to nail into. Otherwise, you may need to add some framing, you can use 22 mm planks attached to the studs.
Pyka: Check with the janitor, he has probably screwed something into those walls.
AndersPH: Looked at houses with interior walls, ceilings with plywood that is revitalized, some like it, others don't. A practical question, how do you hang pictures in a good way, there will be "holes," not as easy to repair as, for example, concrete, drywall, or?
Keexet: Interesting aspect. I haven't even considered the cost since I bought these glass blocks very cheaply "second hand" and if it's enough for two layers, it's because I have some left over from another project. I don't have an exact idea of how wide the air gap between the two intended layers could be, but could one imagine sealing "outward" with some kind of sealant (acrylic caulk/silicone/marine
Sara Wendt: [citat] Hi, I'm wondering a bit the same as tosan about which option you chose, what sum you settled on, and of course how the result turned out. We have the same plans so I'm trying to get as much info on large dormers as possible but finding few who have done exactly like you.
Hexapoda: [citat] For that simple cabin, they have 45x220 C24 as load-bearing beams and floor joists 45x170 C24. (Looked in the Manual from Svenskt Trä and can't quite figure it out. They are behind both the Manual, byggbeskrivningar.se, and traguiden.se. In the Manual, 45x245 C24 is recommended for a 6 m width unless it's screwed laminated floor particleboard. On traguiden.se, it's 2 pcs 45x220 that
scorp1on: [citat] Embed the wooden beams in the bearer, so your max height will be equivalent to the bearer's height.
Rubb: The response is a bit late, attaching the pictures I have. It's a room with 4 walls. 3 "normal" walls where tretex has been removed and replaced with OSB + 13 mm gypsum. The other wall, however, which borders another bedroom, consists only of wardrobes. A total of 7 wardrobes, 2 with openings into the room we are renovating, 4 towards the other bedroom, and 1 with an opening towards the hallway.
Tia78: I bought it from gärdin and persson in Östersund but there are more companies that sell it and I mixed it together in a bucket with a wooden stick. I have been firing in the fore furnace for a few years with newly cast parts so it seems to work well.
fribygg: [citat] Hope you achieve reasonable profitability and return on invested capital and time.
Idus: [citat] Well, sometimes they might "stand" in water and risk freezing. :-/ I might consider a combo instead with concrete blocks (or old concrete slabs) for the part exposed to water and maybe lakeblock on top.
surris: [citat] If there's too much insulation, it can definitely bulge. But 15 mm shouldn't be a problem.
JSten: Thanks for the responses. Argh, it looks like ISO 225:2010 is the key here, these darn standards that you have to pay for, annoying... [citat] Mainly, it's to satisfy my curiosity about what the different designations stand for. But, as I mentioned, I'm also going through all the stuff I have, and it would be nice to sort and label them a bit more neatly than coming up with something myself.
ChrisCornell: [citat] Ah, that's what you mean. Damn, that wasn't stupid. Thanks(y)
Anders.W: Hello, I'm considering building my house with thermo-wall or insulation elements, for example from Jackon or Bewi. Is there anyone who knows if it's possible to purchase these insulation elements from the Baltics or Poland at a lower price than in Sweden? The brand doesn't really matter, it's primarily function and quality that are important. Thankful for any information and help I can get. link
surris: [citat] No, drywall is for getting a nice surface for wallpapering/painting or for fire protection. There's probably no disadvantage, but it's unnecessary.
mrsnhp: After painting, only the largest crack is visible and nothing sounds hollow (yet). Now we hope it lasts at least as long as the rest of the old plaster :) (The surface is intentionally rough and uneven in an attempt to match the old surface around it) [bild]
SaKn: Hello! We moved into a villa this autumn. The house was built in 2016, and in 2020 a garage was added that connects to the house at the gable. The garage has insulated walls, and we have insulated the inner ceiling. Now we're going to install an air-to-air heat pump. The previous owners didn't quite finish the garage. Here is how it looks where the garage is attached to the house. The inspector
doubleH: [citat] The product you linked to is not an epoxy putty but a polyester product. Polyester probably adheres quite poorly to concrete, epoxy is a better alternative.
henkeh91: [citat] Hello again, Sorry for the late response. We decided not to proceed with the house. Thanks for the help! Best regards, Henrik
Realisten: Hello, I am welding together the chassis from hot-dip galvanized square tubes. I am accustomed to welding, but I'm really pondering how I can protect it from rust as effectively as possible to ensure its longevity. According to the cans, it states that cold galvanizing lasts anywhere from 12-24 months. The welding is done with MMA, how do I best protect the welding seam without hot-dip
Plupp 507596: [citat] great, then I know. It remains to be seen if the fastenings on the drywall hold. Otherwise, I'll just insert a plug.