Slanted interior wall in stone!

[Dr Benz]

Thank you for all the answers. It will probably be about trying to frame up a wall. Which building board is most suitable for plastering on?

 

[cpalm]

Maybe I'm missing something, but why straighten the wall?
Normally you adapt (mainly) the countertop to a slanted wall instead of the other way around.

 

[VidarH]

If you're going to have wall cabinets and a tall cabinet next to the countertop, you can just put a panel that covers the part that is visible? It's not a large area in that case.

 

[Dr Benz]

Maybe I'm missing something, but why straighten the wall? Normally you would adapt (especially) the countertop to a slanted wall instead of the other way around.

You have a point, but a countertop that is straight for about 2.5m and then becomes about 5 cm wider in the last 1.5m will probably look strange…. But I will actually take a look and consider IF it could be a solution. Space behind the base cabinets doesn't matter…

 

[Dr Benz]

If you plan to have wall cabinets and a tall cabinet next to the tabletop, you could just put a panel that covers the visible part? It's not a big area in that case.

Hi. No tall cabinet there. The plan is for a more than 4-meter-long countertop with nothing above..

 

[myrstack]

What is the wall made of? Is it an option to notch out a few cm of the wall for the board in the middle so that you get a more even wall without as much difference?

 

[Dr Benz]

What is the wall made of? Is it an option to notch a few cm of the wall for the board in the middle so that you get a more even wall without as much difference?

It is built with hard plaster.. also an interesting idea but the board will go over the windowsill so that might be tricky. The window is so low that there will be a niche there behind the base cabinets.

 

[myrstack]

The quick way would be to place wedge-shaped battens and drywall it. The downside is that it will be difficult to create a transition between the plastered part and where the battened part begins without cracks, considering that the two materials move differently. In such a solution, you should use microlit or something similar over the entire wall.

Another solution is naturally to plaster out with, for example, gypsum plaster. The thickness required means that you might need to be a bit creative, and one option is to take up part of the volume that needs to be removed by first gluing up thin lightweight concrete boards so that the plaster layer becomes acceptably thin. Regardless, this part of the wall must be sanded clean for good adhesion to the substrate.

Can you get the countertop in one whole piece? If they have to make a seam anyway and it happens to be against the part that becomes deeper, it's not impossible that the broader part of the countertop won't be that much more expensive. However, if everything is in one piece, I would guess it would drive up the cost.

 

[cpalm]

you have a point but a countertop that is straight about 2.5m and then the last 1.5m becomes about 5 cm wider will probably look strange….

I think you're worrying unnecessarily. Of course, you see what you want to see. If you're aiming for a "clinical" look with perfect surfaces and angles, it might disturb the impression. Otherwise, it's more about succeeding with a nice fit against the surfaces, and such a thing can even become a fun detail.
What kind of "style" are you going for in the result?

 

[Dr Benz]

The quick way should then be to set wedge-shaped battens and plaster out. The disadvantage is that it will be difficult to get a transition between the plastered part and where the extended part begins without cracks, considering that the two materials move differently. In such a solution, you should run microlite or similar over the entire wall.

Another solution is of course to plaster out with something like gypsum plaster. The thickness required means that you probably have to be a bit creative, and one variant is to, for example, take up part of the volume that must be removed by first gluing up thin lightweight concrete boards so that the plaster layer becomes acceptably thin. Regardless, this part of the wall must be sanded clean so that there is good adhesion to the substrate.

Can you get the countertop in one solid piece? If they still have to make a seam and it happens to end up against the part that becomes deeper, it is not impossible that the part of the countertop that becomes wider will not be so extremely much more expensive. If everything is in one piece, however, I would guess that it would become more expensive.

I think the best thing would be to build up a wall with wedge-shaped battens. Somehow. Need to put a little extra love into this wall.

The house is a street house dated around 1850. Almost everything will be redone. It will be modernized, but I still want to create a sense of the 19th century. The house is a bit crooked and wonky, which is the whole charm. But with such a big gap against the countertop, I still don't want it to be too visible. Hence, building away some of the "charm" so that it looks reasonable is something I have no problem with.

 

[Dr Benz]

I think you're worrying unnecessarily. Of course, you see what you want to see. If you're looking for a "clinical" look with perfect surfaces and angles, it might disrupt the impression. Otherwise, it's more about achieving a nice fit against the surfaces, and such a thing can even become a fun detail.
What "style" are you aiming for with the result?

No, not clinical. We love quirky angles and nooks. BUT a wall that's as crooked as this one is a bit too much... when it goes too far, it's not as charming. The straightness of the countertop trumps the wall in this case.
If it were a wall in a living room, we probably wouldn't care about it.

 

[VidarH]

How would it feel if you placed a custom-cut board between the tabletop and the wall, naturally on both sides of the window? With a nice grain and contrasting color, I think it could become an exciting and decorative element of craftsmanship...