Building Materials and Construction Technology
jespgrun: [citat] Good tip, but if it were at my place and the ceiling height wasn't 2.40, I would have just plastered directly onto the weave!
Niklaspe: [citat] search for ventilation pipes at Biltema. They have 100mm pipes in different types that fit the dry air hose!
&herr frej: [citat] If you plaster the ceiling angle, it's an advantage for the filler to rest on an edge instead of hanging (gravity) easier to get it right with a paper strip.
Krux: Just as already suggested in the thread...
JoakimPe: Thank you for the response! We want it pine-colored or alternatively stained in some lively color, and then the knot will be visible.
BosseHansson: Place wedges by it and pull the screw. It's a fixed window, where are they supposed to go when the trim and reveal are in place?
KungGeorge: Thank you for the quick response. Spontaneously, it feels a bit crazy, but I thought this might be a new yet proven way to renovate the roof. If no new info emerges, it will probably be a classic replacement of felts, battens, and tiles from one of the other quotes.
Matti_75: Drill the hole in the clip and countersink it so any countersunk wood screw fits.
Xhdgahhh: We will soon begin renovating the upper floor of our 1.5-story house to create an additional bedroom and a bathroom in the master bedroom. If you look at the floor plan, the "bridge" where it is open to the ceiling is new to provide a separate entrance to that room (it is not as massive as it looks due to the sloped roof). The red line corresponds to the outermost beam in the additional floor
arkTecko: [citat] I find it hard to see what this study has to do with the case in question?
Trubaduren2: We are looking at a few houses built from the late 60s to the late 70s, 1.5-story with crawl space, timber frame with brick facade. The condition of the houses varies, but they need renovation. Roof and windows need to be replaced, possibly sill plates. Anyone who has renovated 70s houses and wants to share typical period errors to watch out for and problems that have arisen along the way?
BirgitS: [citat] Or the support depends on the standing frames around existing windows and new windows do not have frames that can be load-bearing. It was apparently common in the outer walls of the 50s and 60s with 3 windows and a door close to each other to maintain a thin wall.
raveper: Should you have senildosor in the sockets and shouldn't they be placed higher up?
Tompafix: It should probably work. And I agree that it looks best with hidden (y)
Matti_75: Close the valves when you let in warm air that can carry a lot of moisture. When it cools down, the RH% increases significantly.
Rickard.: I would say the most common is to build a regular cardboard roof and then place a decking on top, it's common on everything from carports to fully insulated and heated extensions. For the latter, welded cardboard is a given, but I believe it works fine to do it yourself in many cases where the risks are lower.
Installation: One should also ensure that the casing becomes trim-forming around the window and doors so it doesn't look awkward there.
ÉlPon: [citat] What do you mean? Have I suggested that I won't have grundpapp between the wooden sill and the wall?
MrJay: [citat] Correct, if you have used white Tec7. In TS's case, the goo is transparent.
evaerixon: We placed mounting tape that was as wide as the panel. We secured it with short screws with larger heads.
kungfuu: After some testing, I think it might be possible to finagle some Snap Toggles from the back, that should do the trick. I will also check for studs/screws with a magnet.
Workingclasshero: [citat] Moisture technician?! You're supposed to read a number, how hard can it be?
Demmpa: Yes, that's correct, none of the interior walls are load-bearing. Almost a bit OT, It could also be that the foundation wall in the basement is not physically load-bearing but just for safety. Our foundation wall in the basement has a bit of space between it and the sheathing in the intermediate floor. The foundation wall was built after the entire intermediate floor had the sheathing installed.
KnockOnWood: [citat] I would probably place horizontal boards/panels there. Like this approximately: [bild] [bild] And paint for example with [bild]
ankan_84: Hello, I have clad the basement outer walls with Yton Multpor. I plan to hang a radiator and have prepared with large screws for the outer wall that go through the cladding. However, I need to hang some lighter items on the Multpor. The Multpor is extremely porous, but I will only be hanging a fan and the brackets for the water pipes down to the radiator, so the weight is low. Do you have any
Axel Svensson: [citat] question regarding moisture meter T660. Where did you find the table? I would like to know how much this is in % I have received these readings and the moisture technician says it is dry. I find them a bit high...
Ironside: Was at the paint store, they thought it was very strange that Beckers wood filler wouldn't be enough for this job. They gave me a good price on a new tube and it turned out to work quite okay, sure you still need to apply it 2-3 times but much better than the tube I had before. I noticed now that it's actually from 2016, maybe that has an impact on the function ;)
Alfredo: Probably not so important. Any sealant/spackle will probably work. I would take latex caulk. Foam sealant feels over the top here. Messy as hell to work with and doesn't provide a good surface for painting.