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Another thought, I've read on the forum that you shouldn't use too small of a brad nail. In this case, the panel will be nailed onto a 28/70 framework. 15+25 = 43mm No point in using a 50mm brad nail then? At least not if you're nailing straight down, um... up. But if you're angling, well that's another story.
If you angle according to the green line, the next board would cover that head. But maybe that's cumbersome?
Someone must have done this before, give me some thoughts, please.
If you angle according to the green line, the next board would cover that head. But maybe that's cumbersome?
Someone must have done this before, give me some thoughts, please.
Hello,
I installed that panel on the ceiling with Gapros panel clips (Google it to see pictures). They become completely invisible and come in both screw and nail versions; the screw version is excellent. The nails can't be fully driven in without a driving tool unless you want to damage the panel, and it takes time if there's a lot of panels. I bought a longer screw for the clips, as I thought the one that came with it was short. They're not very cheap, but I saw that Biltema has a version that's about half the price compared to Gapros at Bauhaus.
But you won't get any benefit from the nail gun, however, a good screwdriver will ...
/R
I installed that panel on the ceiling with Gapros panel clips (Google it to see pictures). They become completely invisible and come in both screw and nail versions; the screw version is excellent. The nails can't be fully driven in without a driving tool unless you want to damage the panel, and it takes time if there's a lot of panels. I bought a longer screw for the clips, as I thought the one that came with it was short. They're not very cheap, but I saw that Biltema has a version that's about half the price compared to Gapros at Bauhaus.
But you won't get any benefit from the nail gun, however, a good screwdriver will ...
/R
Sorry, obvious things for me.
Nail visibly according to the red marking, there's no sensible person who thinks about these minimal holes when the ceiling is in place. If you're going to whitewash, you can also put a little soft caulk or filler in each hole, and they will definitely disappear.
I've been tinkering with clips in the house here at home. It takes an incredibly long time, and compared to the nailed ceiling at the country house with visible nails, I think the added value is minimal or nonexistent. If you also have a pine panel (which I hope you have since it bleeds less/not in the knots), the ceiling is anyhow full of small black spots/knots - the nail disappears in the crowd and is only visible when you stand directly underneath and look up.
I've been tinkering with clips in the house here at home. It takes an incredibly long time, and compared to the nailed ceiling at the country house with visible nails, I think the added value is minimal or nonexistent. If you also have a pine panel (which I hope you have since it bleeds less/not in the knots), the ceiling is anyhow full of small black spots/knots - the nail disappears in the crowd and is only visible when you stand directly underneath and look up.
MathiasS: Thanks for responding but... It's pre-painted, top-coated, white paneling. I wasn't planning on glazing or repainting anything.
SBH: ok, you still haven't answered. So either it's not so obvious to you or you're just being snooty by not willing to spare a few more keystrokes.
SBH: ok, you still haven't answered. So either it's not so obvious to you or you're just being snooty by not willing to spare a few more keystrokes.
With 16g brads and painted panel, I had nailed it according to your pink line. It is definitely secure even with straight-driven brads. And since the panel's recessed groove in the tongue and groove creates a certain shadow, it is minimally visible.
If you're unsure, nail a scrap piece securely and try to pull it out by hand to see how firmly it holds.
If you're unsure, nail a scrap piece securely and try to pull it out by hand to see how firmly it holds.
Even better situation! Use a nail gun, dab a little paint in each nail hole. Done. It will be even less noticeable than if it was glazed.JOW said:
I'm not trying to argue for one way or the other, just pointing out that once the ceiling is up, no one sees the nails. Not even you.
The only way to hide the dykert is to place it by the green, but it has to be perfectly aligned there; if it ends up a bit further out on the bottom edge, you won't be able to fit the next board. Have you looked into those "roof clips?" You get a completely hidden attachment, I bought them at byggmax or jula if I remember correctly.
edit: http://www.byggmax.com/se-sv/prod/pid-22934.aspx just position it and go at it with the dyckert gun.
edit: http://www.byggmax.com/se-sv/prod/pid-22934.aspx just position it and go at it with the dyckert gun.
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MrTim: that was an interesting idea!
Do you mean that you shot the T-Dyckert through the hole in the clip? I can imagine it's a bit tricky to aim there...
Or did you just shoot anyway and let the dyckert make a new hole in the clip?
Do you mean that you shot the T-Dyckert through the hole in the clip? I can imagine it's a bit tricky to aim there...
Or did you just shoot anyway and let the dyckert make a new hole in the clip?