Building Materials and Construction Technology
Dilato: Does it matter if it sinks in a little, it primarily depends on how much force you use when tightening, right?
steppen7: Core drill, what characterizes such a tool? I googled and it seems to be a "hole saw" with quite wide spacing between the teeth? Like this one: https://www.amazon.se/Starrett-BMC102-k%C3%A4rnborr-diamantdamm-diameter/dp/B00LPEZWRG?th=1 There are also "hole saws" with diamond almost all the way around. Pros and cons? Good tip with a basin or maybe a bucket. However, it won't work if you're using
plåtrickard: One variant is to saw a groove in the panel and then insert a sheet (väggskiva) there.
Henrik.woll: Normally, I would say no, but if you're unsure, send in a sample so you get the answer in black and white. (y)
tergo: check what diameter you have on the screw part, the old ones come in more than one variant pinngångjärn - Search on Google
pandalus: Have purchased floore flooring kit, it's polystyrene boards that need to be primed before leveling, and for leveling fiber-reinforced self-leveling compound should be used as vinyl flooring will be applied. Applies btw to the bathroom. Adhesive might be easy to find since the polystyrene boards are attached in the tongue and groove.
Oldboy: If the floor construction has remained healthy since the '70s, i.e., for 52 years, the exact same construction will likely hold until the next water leak. It is called a risk construction because there is a risk that it won't work if the conditions are poor, but if the conditions are good, it works. It can't work better than not having mold or rot for over 50 years.
Ellinor Hellquist80: He has put some plastic so that it is only exactly where the moisture is that should be dehumidified. Got the advice from the insurance company.
stalf: We are planning to build a bed frame for our 2-year-old who has just transitioned from a junior bed to a standard 200x90 mattress. It will be some form of frame around the mattress to prevent him from falling out and then some type of house, like 3 walls and a roof, over the head end. Which type of board material is best to use? Glulam feels too expensive. So we have considered MDF or plywood.
z_bumbi: Have you unpacked the wardrobes? Otherwise, it seems easier to use elfa, which you can customize to uneven backgrounds, heights, and door widths.
Spik Anton: I'm building a coffee table inspired by Arne Hovmand-Olsen and I'm looking for a screw that is M4 X 65 which then fits a rampamuff of the right size, these are needed to assemble the leg frame with the tabletop to achieve a floating effect. I don't know what these screws are called or where I can buy the fittings individually. Thanks for the help and tip!
Cff: [citat] that would indeed have been great from the perspective of fitting as much as possible. However, the outside of the door faces the dining area, so I want to keep it completely smooth and white.
jonaserik: There are 2 types of machines you can use for drilling. One is like a regular one and spins at several thousand rounds, set in hammer mode and sounds like being at the dentist's (wear ear protection), just crap. And one that has a hammer in it that eats the concrete quickly, less noise. Borrow one from maybe a neighbor.
mrsnhp: [citat] There are breathable wall-to-wall carpets intended for basements that can be laid directly on the concrete floor. Needle felt is a classic, but apparently, there are also more "regular" wall-to-wall carpets nowadays. If it's going to be an office, however, needle felt can be good so that the office chair can roll :) I have had to lay floor protection even on needle felt for it to roll
snickarmarie: [citat] :crysmile::p
z_bumbi: Wood dowels for alignment during gluing make it easier to get it in line. Glue is more than enough to hold it,
Jocke Best: I bought these last year and they work very well. One, maybe myth, maybe true, is that the strips need cooling to avoid burning out, and these are a good investment for that. It's likely to get hot up in the ceiling squeezed behind styrofoam. Check this out! https://amzn.eu/d/bEUhT9Y
Rickard.: [citat] No, but I don't know of any plaster board that would solve that. There are quite a few plaster boards/plaster carriers of various kinds, but I don't know at all which one is best suited for you, but the fibercement boards (like gyproc) are relatively easy to work with.
eriksaaf: [citat] What is the frost depth in the area? Avoid 0 material that does not drain. I would recommend something without 0material. If you're worried about frost heaving the post, you can have a ring of insulation around it. However, I think it's overkill in this case. The posts we've made in mountain areas have often been anchored in rock or had a layer of insulation in/under the gravel.
Zba: [citat] I would like to know how to build it if you're going to lay it on a grass slope.
ÉlPon: [citat] I managed to search and find this thread which confirms how I intended to do it. Furring first and then the wall. And 1-2 extra furring when the wall runs the other way along with the furring.
nmeden: Thanks for the response. Replied in the other thread.
Aldrig_nöjd: Assume it? It was put in yesterday. I'm not on site, it's my partner and our friend who are. I'm just trying to help as much as I can here from my mom's place where the kids and I are staying while this is being done.
oshu: [citat] I cleared everything all the way to the top. The issue was that years of paint caused the wall/ceiling to "stick together" due to the paint, and chunks of the ceiling paint peeled off. If I were to do it again today, I would cut into the ceiling concrete so the ceiling paint wouldn't come off. If I had retained a part of the wall against the ceiling, I would have made a cut before I
Christer Törnros: Accidentally clicked on this old thread and realize that some of my posts have been removed. That's probably fine, I probably broke some forum rules. However, it raises the question, what responsibility does the forum owner have for the posts that are made? There are posts in the thread that completely reject and perhaps even encourage breaking Swedish law. Is that ok?
Alexander HB: [citat] You will definitely impact the construction, and it needs to be investigated how much. When the vertical studs are loaded from above, they will bend sideways. This is prevented partly by having plasterboards on them, but also by the noggins between the studs. Now you are talking about possibly removing both the plasterboards and the noggins, which could lead to the studs buckling if the
Rickard.: I think clinker decking on the plastic base is a really sensible solution in general, but it's not directly made for metal roofing so I'm not really sure how it works, but it can probably be solved somehow. If it's a standing seam roofing, it's important that all the bases miss the seams and that the point load isn't too high so that the metal doesn't deform or get damaged, for instance.
hempularen: [citat] But it sounds like this is a modification of the house's load-bearing structure. Then you need to file a construction notification. And then you will need to have some form of drawings. If you try with a bit of estimation from the pictures you posted, it looks like the floor above the opening spans at least 6-7m. And you're planning to open a total of 4.8m? The floor must normatively