Hello,

I had a water leak 4 weeks ago and had to tear out the entire kitchen.
The floor had sawdust as insulation directly against the slab.
As you can see in the pictures, I have embedded impregnated studs in the concrete slab.

I'm considering what to use for insulation when I fill this in.
I obviously don't want organic material directly against the slab again.
Has anyone done a similar project at home?
(House built in 69/70)

Very grateful for any responses :)
 
  • Kitchen room stripped to bare floor with visible wooden beams and a cardboard box on a dirt surface, pending insulation and renovation after water damage.
  • Exposed wooden beams on a concrete floor, part of a kitchen renovation after a water leak, with sawdust and scattered debris visible.
K Kyrkogatan18 said:
Hello,

I had a water leak 4 weeks ago and have had to tear out the entire kitchen.
The floor had sawdust as insulation directly against the slab.
As you can see in the pictures, I have cast-in impregnated studs in the concrete slab.

I'm considering what to insulate with when I fill this in.
Of course, I don't want to have organic material directly against the slab again.
Has anyone done similar projects at home?
(The house was built in -69/70)

Extremely grateful for answers :)
If you lay a capillary-breaking layer at the bottom, like construction plastic, you should be able to use either fiber wool or even something organic like cellulose when you re-insulate.
 
klaskarlsson klaskarlsson said:
If you put a capillary-breaking layer at the bottom, like construction plastic, then you should be able to use either mineral wool or even something organic like cellulose when you re-insulate.
Construction plastic is not capillary-breaking. It's a type of waterproofing. What happens to the moisture from inside that condenses against the plastic and your organic insulation? Nicht gut.

Insulating on top of the slab is quite tricky if I've understood correctly.
 
All wood removed, including studs in the slab, the sill should also be removed. EPS concrete on and then level or even out with concrete, then cellular plastic and floating chipboard floor.
 
You are allowed to install a ventilated floor if you have an uninsulated concrete slab directly on the ground.

There are a few different brands and variants, some with metal/wooden joists on plastic supports, other versions based on platon mats.
 
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F Fixar_Krille said:
All the wood away, including the joists in the slab; the base plate should also be removed. EPS concrete on top and then level with regular concrete, then insulation and floating chipboard flooring.
Hi, I removed the cast-in joists yesterday.
Pleasantly surprised that it was only 2x3/4", was expecting something like 2x4 / 2x6 :)

The base plate is bone dry and gives off no odor, feels like overkill to remove it or what do you think?
to self-level to an even surface and place plastic spacers under the frame, then chipboard flooring on top?
like the picture you mean?
Earlier it was 3/4" rough flooring, is chipboard flooring more durable?

Wooden framing with a panel labeled "THIS SIDE UP!" in a construction setting, illustrating a proposed floor plan or structure design.
 
If the floor construction has remained healthy since the '70s, i.e., for 52 years, the exact same construction will likely hold until the next water leak.
It is called a risk construction because there is a risk that it won't work if the conditions are poor, but if the conditions are good, it works. It can't work better than not having mold or rot for over 50 years.
 
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