Building Materials and Construction Technology
hempularen: Dust from blåbetong is just as dangerous/harmless as the blåbetong that is in the wall. However, dust is not good to inhale regardless of whether you are 2 or 62 years old. So when sanding, one should wear a respiratory mask. And then dust from blåbetong is just as bad as regular sanding dust from paint being sanded.
människa: Hello How has it gone with the plastered wall, two years later? Isn't it a basement wall you plastered? I'm considering plastering our basement wall in our new build.
Claes Sörmland: [citat] I think you're absolutely right. You need to build a shaft through the wall that can withstand the heat radiation from the flue pipe. Typically, you buy an approved flue pipe, and its instruction manual will state how this shaft should be designed.
Avemo: It is, of course, possible to heat water in a jacket for a fireplace. However, it is good to have the right expectations about the result. Most of the heat generated in a fireplace goes directly out through the chimney, without benefiting the house. Of the heat that ends up in the room, most of it comes through direct radiant heat. A smaller portion heats up the fireplace’s masonry walls and is
Dublin: It doesn't look particularly bad for being a basement, but as you've mentioned yourself, having wooden studs against basement walls is asking for trouble. Unfortunately, patching and repairing is rarely a good method. Sure, you can remove the width of one board, replace it with steel studs and drywall, and then plaster over the transition to the old wall. But whether that's good or not, probably
mojjen: If there is a 5mm gap, i.e., the chimney is not in contact, then I would have made a completely new rafter that I would screw and glue together with the current one. But then cut away the part that gets too close to the chimney. It's a bit of the same idea as Nikorasu above, but make it whole, so it will ultimately be stronger than today, instead of risking weakening. If it is in contact, you can
PNO: When I ran pipes in a wall over a longer distance that would later be covered with drywall, I ordered strips of 1.5mm galvanized steel sheet that with margin covered the pipes and screwed them over the pipes before the drywall was in place. I have done the same in a few places where pipes pass through studs at unsuitable spots, but with smaller metal pieces similar to those from airmont. But
En glad amatör: Here you go! I should add that the side glass that cannot be opened blackens the fastest. Since there is no seal around the door, air is drawn in there which certainly helps to "ventilate" the glass in the door. If we were to use it for more regular heating during the winter season, I would invest in a stove insert, much more environmentally friendly and significantly more efficient. I believe
KungAnka: [citat] Chicken choice. :) I've considered it, but haven't found anything I like. The only one I've seen is Assa that's sold in a set where I still have to replace the screws (too short) and the rod/carrier. [bild]
herrjoa: well, thanks for the help I'll have to test it out, see what holds and what doesn't it's porous so lightweight clinker or slag stone are probably the options. lightweight concrete plugs or sturdy nylon plugs are the alternatives available. if it doesn't work, I'll have to try some special solution, like fill and fix, house fix, chemical anchor or maybe anchor mass. feels like a lot of work to get
AndersS: The ones I have used worked with 18. It might depend on the panel. But I angle the nailer so the nails are driven in at an angle, and the angles "counteract" each other.
AG A: Yes, you can put it there. Just get a proper wall mount so the TV sits a few cm away from the wall to prevent it from overheating, and make sure it's securely mounted. Then get proper screws and plugs. These should not be as long as a brick is wide. You also need to be careful not to drill too far.
Matti_75: I would make sure to attach a bracket first that is secure and then screw the stairs into it.
KnockOnWood: [citat] When I converted an unused stable into a chicken coop in 2010, I tried placing a heat lamp over one of the roosting bars. The chickens quickly moved to the sides, no one wanted to sit in the "cozy" heat under the lamp. So it was removed.
Kyrkogatan18: The ceilings will be framed down with 2x2 and drywalled. So obviously I don't want a sagging ceiling that will crack the drywall :)
aroo: Ok, maybe that was a somewhat long and sprawling thread start... So to scale it down a bit: If I want to build a wall with lightweight concrete but the floor is quite uneven, should I cast a curb directly on top of the current floor? Or is it not necessary at all, can I cut the lightweight concrete so precisely that it's not needed? Thanks!
mojjen: [citat] All the frames I wanted soundproof, I've used FM330 foam. Maybe overkill, but it works. Then I buy soundproof frames for the doors. I go with compact (chipboard filled) or solid. Almost as good as a sound-rated interior door but much cheaper. I usually shop at mindorr.se
Claes Sörmland: To complicate things a bit more, there is a certain percentage of limestone flour even in the regular cement-based plasters in bags (the one called A-C). The limestone flour makes the mortar stickier/thicker and the portland cement sets better, making it easier to work with. If you mix mortar using only portland cement (=building cement. NOT the product masonry cement) and sand, you get pure
Rickard.: https://www.rockwool.com/se/produkter-och-konstruktioner/takisolering/snedtak/paralleltak/
bradgard: I can imagine that it gets quite complicated if you have to dig up a whole lot of trenches in the slab. Thinking about future load-bearing capacity and such if you're in and demolish too much. But water and sewage at least should be dimensioned for? But tearing away the whole slab and recasting is probably even more expensive. Forgot to write that there is insulation under the slab, some form of
gaia: Is the stove built from brick? Normal heat wear and nothing I would worry about as long as the brick is not visible.
Rickard.: [citat] I must admit that I've only seen KL for commercial buildings and have no idea what thicknesses are involved for you, so my estimate (read guess) may well be on the high side. A typical wooden floor is generally estimated to weigh 50kg/m2.
Bart: No. The gypsum serves certain functions. It makes it easier to get a smooth, even surface to paint or wallpaper. It doesn't move, so cracks don't form as easily in the paint and wallpaper. It reduces the risk of fire spreading. It provides some sound insulation. So, if you don't see a need for any of those properties for the storage room, gypsum isn't necessary either. I've had many storage rooms
Liljan19: We have an indoor concrete staircase that I'm considering covering with wood. Are there any drawbacks or risks involved in doing so? A carpenter I contacted claims that there is a risk of the steps cracking as they shift with the seasons and moisture coming from below. Meanwhile, other companies don't mention anything like that. What is reasonable?
JonteP83: [citat] Now considering Webers gypsum. The accompanying primer is supposed to be suitable for bitumen. What do you think about using it on the basement wall? It's a heated basement and now an interior wall.
GoC: I think your first solution with the "angle" on the wall at the height of the stair railing. It could be a great TV stand or something else. If you plan to lower it, you should first test to make sure you don't hit your head on the extended part in the stairwell and that you can move items, like a bed, up and down the stairs. Otherwise, it might end up being a pretty lousy solution.