Building Materials and Construction Technology
Albireo: It was a bit like the drawing from Tjälldén that I initially thought of. But then I started to consider—it probably only applies to "garages" with "slab on ground"... (a relatively low load on the rim beam) Now this case involves—a basement with a masonry/cast (heavy) wall with a height of about 2.5m, as well as two wooden floors and roof load and snow weights. In the document from
simonnnn: [citat] How did you do it, Walle? :) Picture?
tergo: a little on the subject "Popping" floor - some believe in a frightening explanation - Byggnadsarbetaren
maer031: Hello, Last fall and winter, and now this one, we have noticed a distinct smell of meringue in our extension from -69. The extension has a crawl space and an attic with wood shavings. Some moisture marks on part of the roof sheathing near the valley gutter, but nothing acute according to Anticimex who has been here for an insurance inspection. The smell is driving us somewhat crazy and we are
Jörgen Edman: [citat] [citat] [citat] Ok. That's how it will be. I have a mason on G to look at it. I have many projects here at the same time and need to buy myself some time. But if it gets delayed or too expensive, then I'll have to do it myself. Grateful for your answers.
Dublin: [citat] Yes, we have decided to tear everything out especially since the radon measurement showed high levels.
jonaserik: You can build frames and insert edge to edge outside and inside and some form of board that covers the hole. With insulation in between, good insulation is cellplast.
MathiasS: You're still going to need a sink, wall plate, etc., I assume, it's perfect to use wall plugs when you're screwing things up. Worth the money and effort many times over.
NalleSW: [citat] It is dug down to the rock. I would like to redo it with standard cast cylinder pillars. We'll see how I can present that proposal.
olofh: [citat] thanks, will borrow and check if it's the one but sounds promising
Höghus: [citat] If machine threading is a requirement, just drill as deep as you can and fill the hole with rampamuffar. Some adjustment will be necessary for the threads to align at the joints. Not something I would do myself, but not impossible. /High-rise
Klicka: Raising the question again. I have purchased Bostik primer: [bild] Will it be sufficient as a primer? It says "Before filling with Bostik floor filling compound and before setting tiles with adhesives." The wall is partially repaired and partially painted. I don't want the tile adhesive to make the drywall "bubble" when I start tiling.
Mazen: Make your own plugs :) https://www.biltema.se/verktyg/borr/traborr/pluggskararsats-konisk-4-st-2000019552
Mullinu: Apartment built 88-90. Concrete ceiling that was sand-textured, so I sanded it down. "Filled" with Nordsjö medium filler and sanded down. No bubbles. Then I chose to reapply with Alcro roll filler since I was redoing the walls and had slightly better tools. There were bubbles here and there, quite a few in places, but not everywhere. The walls that are made of concrete (which received the same
Isakare: Concrete screw should work well in solid brick.
Oldboy: Wallpaper glue works well, but treetex probably absorbs a bit more than other surfaces, so a bit more glue might be needed. If I remember correctly, it can also work to apply lightly water-damaged wallpaper paste first which can soak in and dry. Then it doesn't absorb as much afterward. Painting with a suitable primer also removes the "absorption" of extra wallpaper paste. :)
Matti_75: Cast up so you get a base the same as the brick
Roger1337: it is damp as most crawl spaces are, vents are present but maybe more are needed for more ventilation. the house is situated high.
FDT: EPS concrete is a fantastic material. No issues with ground slabs. Read the “instructions”…
Matti_75: It is approved to use single-stage sealed thick plaster facades. Weber has complete systems with everything from gypsum to insulation and plaster. Not to be confused with those with thin plaster on polystyrene which caused major problems. In my opinion, polystyrene should only be used underground.
jonaserik: [citat] In 1936, there is likely a thin (about 5 - 7 cm) concrete slab directly on the underlying soil. You can hear it if you take a board and thump on the floor. If the slab is thin, it can produce a hollow sound, and if thick, a more muffled sound. You say the joists against the concrete have somewhat decayed; moisture comes through the slab and it could be because water stands a bit below. At
Stefan1972: Lime mortar is so soft that you can easily scrape with something sharp and dig into the material. You can't do that if it's cement mortar. It becomes rock hard.
Stensson11: Option 1: Skip Osb. Option 2: Glue the plasterboard onto Osb. Option 3: Also screw the plasterboard into the studs.
ToRy: Sure, the folding doors do "eat" up some space inward or outward, but on the other hand, you almost gain a sliding door width in the opening as you mentioned. Moving parts... well, it's a few hinges and one or two espagnolettes, something like that. Nothing complicated. :rofl: But I understand what you mean. Regardless, I hope it can be done! (y)
TyszkiMark: Hello, I am planning to start the next project at home and build a panel against existing posts. - How do I best set up the battens? Are there modules that can be attached to the posts on which the battens can then be placed? I've tried to research but it's hard to find the best and, above all, most aesthetically pleasing solution. [bild] [bild] Thanks for the help, Marcus
Njurstenen: [citat] I suspect it's this one from Bauhaus: https://www.bauhaus.se/panel-basis-moelven-furu-vaxbehandlad-vit-13x120x4200mm#go-to-description I know there are at least 2 different styles and it wasn't super clear from the packaging which one I bought so it prompted at least two trips to the store :rofl: