Building Materials and Construction Technology
Mikael johannesson: [citat] How did the result turn out, did the plaster bend? I'm in the same situation as you now with cc120 and am wondering if it will be enough :)
BirgitS: When it comes to parquet flooring and kitchens, it depends on what type of kitchen it is. Floor manufacturers usually believe that if the kitchen cabinets are mainly wall-mounted and only have support legs, like Ikea's, then it's fine to have the floor under the kitchen cabinets. However, if the kitchen cabinets have their weight mainly on the floor, such as kitchen islands, the floor should not
klaskarlsson: There are incredibly strong adhesives (e.g., PL-400/600), and it shouldn't be subjected to much load. Otherwise, nails from a nail gun aren't very visible...
Jocke Best: Can't you carve out a bit inside the sheet metal and move it inward? It's better than mouldings.
Nygge72: [citat] I don't have a mill, and using a file sounds like hard work since many need to be beveled, but maybe a small sander with finer paper would work as well?
IsabelleH93: Thank you so much!
PASwe: Thank you for a very good answer. Appreciated!
Lity: [citat] It is cc60 (cm) between the beams, and they are a bit sturdier than today's at 70x220. But still... They probably didn't put in sturdy beams just for fun.
pelle.g79: I am sketching a solution for a staircase to the upper floor in an old cottage. Briefly about the cottage: Original building, circa 1890: timber frame Extension, circa 1945, a room with an attached cellar built out from the gable of the house. All the beams, floors, intermediate floors, and trusses go from the long side to the long side. Span about 4.5 meters between the walls. Walls in the old
Småbrukaren: Why not enter through the exterior wall on the floor above? Are you thinking that the cable should go up through the floor or up through the wall and then on the outside of the wall? And what kind of central unit is it? We have a small fiber box on the wall that then connects to the converter. If you drill, it's important to take it slow and easy. If it's concrete you're going through, you'll
plan-g: [citat] In a previous house, I found extensive mold damage behind wardrobes that were placed against the interior side of an exterior wall. Hence the question.
louii: Something like this a sheet if I understand correctly? Like the white sheet on the left but in a smaller format would help? [bild]
PR96: I'll ask one more question. What screws have you used for attaching to the posts? I will have three 45x70s as posts, with a screwed cap on top. The beam will then be screwed into the cap, and I'm thinking four screws on each side. I will probably also reinforce with an angle bracket between the bottom flange of the beam and the post. There will also be reinforced angle brackets that are screwed
sepani: Checked and it's 15C in the crawl space, so all in all quite warm...
Ted Hörman: It looks like a good solution! I will attach the glrs (28x70) directly to the rafters, so I don't have the space to make the same solution you did with the 45x45 rule. But I was considering clamping the building plastic between the rafter and the wall, similar to what I did under the hammer beam, and then sealing with foam from above as you did. Do you think it won't have the same effect, with
Stefan N: I assume we're talking about silicone sealant? Buy these and it will go smoothly both to remove and apply new. http://www.ksportal.se/en/handverktyg/sanitaer-och-installationsverktyg1/fog-avdragare/fugenfix-silikonskrapa-och-avdragarsats-7-delars
Gårdspigan: I am renovating the staircase and wondering how best to attach the handrail, i.e., the railing, to the wall. Is an additional end post needed, or can I anchor the handrail directly to the wall? The old handrail had a different shape and was nailed(!) at an angle into the plaster. However, it was cut out so that it was inserted about 1 cm into the panel. See the picture. The new handrail is from
Vector: Just like the previous writer, I would advocate for metal expanders when you want to be sure it stays in place. I use it when, for example, mounting water heaters on chipboard as it is not as strong as, for example, plywood.
Claes Sörmland: Why hollow core slabs? Isn't it just a regular cast concrete slab where the pipe ended up a bit too close to the neighbor's client's roof? That might be the case in the million program and perhaps earlier than that. It often comes up in threads about thin concrete slabs that cause issues during bathroom renovations and related frog switches on this forum.
Niklaspe: I have a classic Älvsbyhus where blocks have been placed on the edge beam and then the sill laid on top of them. The gap is 30 mm and opens directly into the crawl space. Since I have a dehumidifier, I of course want to seal this gap, but which method is best? Could I insert insulation like foam boards or something similar? Or should I seal from within the crawl space only? Naturally, the mouse
TheGame: When I did the bathroom, I didn't dare to level the floor myself, so I let the flooring installer do it. But after the casting and it was set, I primed the entire floor. It took 4 weeks before the leveling compound was applied. I think the risk is that it dries too quickly otherwise and cracks or lifts??