Building Materials and Construction Technology
Dan_Johansson: Oh! A little excitement in life is always welcome.. :D Edit: I also think there might be contact-type spray adhesive that you can spray on just one surface, allowing some time for adjustment..
AG A: [citat] You're right. My mistake not to think about the result of mixing them. I just know that chlorine is good for cleaning various messes, and that vinegar is good against odors. But they should not be mixed!
Kirrren: [citat] okay, that's how it turned out then, will have to do that in the worst case, thanks for the answer :D
ÉlPon: [citat] No one seemed to know this. But I figured it out myself when I started drawing a bit that the "cap rail" I described (same as option 3) isn't needed; the sparse beam is supported by the horizontal installation layer (red in the image) that comes in the next step. [bild]
skvadron: Hello, I am planning to install fiber gypsum as a ceiling in my future cinema room. The walls are OSB with double gypsum on top, and I am wondering about the following measurements/dimensions for the studs: The ceiling should not have contact with the existing ceiling above. I am thinking of using 45x145 as a frame around the walls. Then, install 45x145 across the width at cc 600 (cc 1200 is
A.Stahlgren: I have started taking down all the plaster since we are going to install new electrical wiring in the walls and replace the entire surface layer, so now you can see a bit more of how that section we want to remove looks. Even the outermost stud doesn't quite "bottom out" and is not larger than the other studs. [bild] [bild]
lisaskywalker: [citat] I thought it looked like metal with some kind of plastic coating outside, but now that I zoom in I can see that I might be wrong!
fribygg: I would say GIPSA, but if you're inclined to worry, it's easy to shim with a 2mm blue pallet washer.
snowjim: If it is indeed the case that the wall has warped afterwards, how is it possible that the tiles or tile grout have not cracked? Surely it shouldn't be that flexible?
NicklasP: [citat] Awesome! Will try this. Is there a possibility that this adjustment will improve the sealing pressure and make the door fit tighter against the frame?
Skitväder: [citat] Absolutely! It's klackfoder currently, I thought of building a smyg to get a tighter miter :)
Mr. Sundqvist: [citat] That could absolutely be the case. However, I would like to join them with suitable material.
Karl.K: Hello! I am planning to pour a new slab (with underfloor heating) on the existing one from 1974 with 10 cm of foam insulation underneath. Only the exterior walls will stand on the old slab, but with thick sill strips underneath and along the side facing the new pour. The old slab seems dry. Two thoughts have come up. Should I lay age-resistant plastic film on the old slab before the foam
Åsa Lund: It takes four times as long to dry if it only dries in one direction.
gaia: [citat] I might consider removing all the grilles and then using the fireplace as usual. You'll get better circulation around the insert and thus lower temperatures. It might not look very nice without grilles, but it's worth testing before you repair later. And perhaps get sparser grilles/netting around the insert.
raveper: [citat] Pulled out a similar one from a ceiling molding. One was a bit afraid that the upper floor would come crashing down.
sinuslinus: [citat] Make a hole and attach to the concrete.
hempularen: Uncertain about what you mean. But if you have a 2.70 span, without additional anchor points, I think that 45x45 is too weak, regardless of the quality you choose. There's a risk it will sag.
Mads93: Hello! In the basement, we have check valves with asbestos paper behind them as supply air. We are going to remediate these as they have started to deteriorate (some are almost completely gone). Once we have removed these, I assume we need to replace the paper with something? What suggestions do you have?
animap: Thank you so much for all the valuable answers! We will definitely order the staking of the cable. Attached is the old drawing I have of how the cable runs (right under where we are going to dig). Is it possible to interpret anything from these numbers, type of cable / depth, etc?
MatsHmr: Hello I have installed a facade meter cabinet GARO Gim 1 on the gable of a newly built two-story house and now wonder how a suitable flashing should be installed. Do I need to groove the panel, or can the flashing be mounted directly against it, and if so, which sealant is appropriate? Is any sealing needed around the cabinet itself - the "frame" is about 5 cm wide and the hole is made to
petererlandsson1194: If you are going to do electrical wiring or similar in the new insulation, then place the vapor barrier above your 45-insulation (as shown in the drawing), otherwise it doesn't matter much if you place it directly behind the panel (as you wrote). Personally, I wouldn't have bothered to install the extra 45mm from underneath when you have already added insulation in the attic. It's really a tough
mickeparkinson: [citat] Float, kanitz, sword, and a suitably shaped trowel are what I usually use.[/QUOTE] What do you use the sword for?[/QUOTE] To level the surface with.