Hi skilled friends,
We recently had parquet flooring laid by a craftsman.
In one spot roughly in the middle of the kitchen, the floor is sagging.
When I showed it to the carpenter, he said he will inject silicone through 3-4 holes around where it sags.
I'm not sure if this will work or make the floor uneven everywhere.
Could you please give some advice on what the best option is here?
Many thanks in advance!
/Rakesh
We recently had parquet flooring laid by a craftsman.
In one spot roughly in the middle of the kitchen, the floor is sagging.
When I showed it to the carpenter, he said he will inject silicone through 3-4 holes around where it sags.
I'm not sure if this will work or make the floor uneven everywhere.
Could you please give some advice on what the best option is here?
Many thanks in advance!
/Rakesh
It's either that option or tearing up the entire floor and leveling the base. I would let the craftsman carry out his proposal, and if it doesn't turn out well, then the floor can be redone.
Can't say if silicone is the best. There should be other products for this specific purpose, but I'm unsure.erker said:
If it's easy to lift the floor again, you can always remove and put it back, but often it's not simple because you have to start at a corner. Even if you remove the floor, it's the same procedure, i.e., level the floor with filler/Lumpapp or similar.
But, is the floor sagging downwards or upwards? If upwards, the floor is too tight; if downwards, the substrate is not level.
Hi Dahl,
Very grateful for your response. I've been really stressed about this. Sometimes we regret why we thought about getting the floor changed.
So, it might be a special mixture. I can look around at hardware stores.
It flexes downward, so as you say, the substrate is not flat.
In one or two other places (far from where it flexes), it creaks. What is the reason behind this?
It's 13 mm parquet on Tuplex.
Have a great evening!
Best regards,
Rakesh
Very grateful for your response. I've been really stressed about this. Sometimes we regret why we thought about getting the floor changed.
So, it might be a special mixture. I can look around at hardware stores.
It flexes downward, so as you say, the substrate is not flat.
In one or two other places (far from where it flexes), it creaks. What is the reason behind this?
It's 13 mm parquet on Tuplex.
Have a great evening!
Best regards,
Rakesh
The creaking could be due to the floor being against the wall somewhere. But then the floor is a living material and moves depending on temperature and humidity. You probably have low humidity indoors during winter, and then the floor can make some noise, especially if it is new. I believe it will disappear shortly.
Without knowing how much the floor flexes, I don't think you should be worried; everything can be fixed. The easiest way is obviously what the craftsman suggested, but it is also not a huge job to take up the floor again, although one would preferably avoid this.
In the installation instructions for the floor (available on their website), it is stated how much variation in evenness is allowed on the substrate where the floor will be installed. The carpenter should check this before laying the floor and fix it if necessary. As @DahlEricsson1000 writes, one can be guided based on the direction in which the floor is springing. Drilling holes in the floor sounds very strange, those holes will be visible. I would advise you to contact Kährs for their opinion on this matter. Their customer support is good.
If the floor is already pressing against now when the humidity is quite low, the problems will worsen in the summer when the humidity increases and the floor expands.
If the floor is already pressing against now when the humidity is quite low, the problems will worsen in the summer when the humidity increases and the floor expands.
Hello,
Thank you very much!
Yes, where the sound comes from is actually very close to a wall.
It feels like it flexes maybe 3-4 mm over a diameter of about 50-60 cm.
Yes, taking up the floor shouldn't be too much work.
The thing is, we recently installed a new kitchen with stone and everything.
So, maybe he can saw around to the legs under the cabinet and reach a board to start with the lifting.
Another challenge might be that there are underfloor heating coils just under the Tuplex. So if they're not careful, the coils can get damaged.
Is there a plunge saw with a depth of less than 13 mm?
Have a nice evening and I look forward to your answers
Thank you very much!
Yes, where the sound comes from is actually very close to a wall.
It feels like it flexes maybe 3-4 mm over a diameter of about 50-60 cm.
Yes, taking up the floor shouldn't be too much work.
The thing is, we recently installed a new kitchen with stone and everything.
So, maybe he can saw around to the legs under the cabinet and reach a board to start with the lifting.
Another challenge might be that there are underfloor heating coils just under the Tuplex. So if they're not careful, the coils can get damaged.
Is there a plunge saw with a depth of less than 13 mm?
Have a nice evening and I look forward to your answers
Hello,mexitegel said:
Thank you very much for the answer. So maybe he's just trying his luck with the silicone solution. I'll check with Kährs, but as I know, they will say they don't recommend it.
What is the alternative then? To remove the floor and level the subfloor. Are there tools to cut out just enough of the board so that it can be lifted without damaging the underfloor heating loops?
Best regards!
Thank you very much! With this solution, you can also access where it flexes.
The only challenge is to cut under the cabinets without damaging the heating coils that lie underneath.
Is there a special saw that can handle it? The boards are 13 mm, so a saw with a depth less than that might work.
And to make the surface level only around 40 cm x 50 cm, what can you use? Would it be local self-leveling compound under the foam plastic? Or is there something better?
Wishing you a fantastic day!
A plunge saw is probably the first choice if there is enough space, but you should probably leave a few mm to do by hand.
To correct the sag, I think you'll need to lift the floor if it is going to be done properly. But start with a gap and see how the floor reacts.
To correct the sag, I think you'll need to lift the floor if it is going to be done properly. But start with a gap and see how the floor reacts.