Building Materials and Construction Technology
Kurtivan: Look here: http://hvilaro.blogspot.com/2008/07/gering-taklist.html
Jens-jens: Hello again! The cracks haven't moved further, and we haven't discovered anything new either. So we will continue to check the cracks regularly and keep our fingers crossed.
Installation: One can also place spacers behind the screws. Depends on how the plate and attachment points look.
Pistol: Tried screwing by hand and it's rock solid now. Thanks everyone!
RoTe: [citat] https://www.byggahus.se/k/3010448/?m=image&u=15437&a=276249
Tummenmittihanden80: [citat] That sounds like a pretty simple option, thanks! :-) Do I need to frame anything? Will Knauf Rotband hand plaster work? (I've worked with it before and feel that I have mastered it)
Tjrex: The disadvantage of the torx head is that it is slightly higher than ph2. But as others have said, no one will see it.
myrstack: If the choice of substrate is approved, it's probably not the selection of materials that's the problem, but rather the installation of this. With all these wrinkles, I would be worried that pride and time were lacking for a generally good job and would thoroughly inspect overlaps and critical areas such as penetrations.
BirgitS: Houses from that time can be built in various ways, so it's best to hire a structural engineer who can check how it looks in reality and determine how the issue can be best addressed, as well as calculate the dimensions the beam and columns should have so that you have good documentation for the building application.
Installation: [citat] What will the room be used for? What are your measurements for width and length? It's quite important, you can end up with a perfect storm of wrong dimensions. Pythagorean numbers (3,4,5) are an example of good measurements from an acoustic perspective, i.e., 3 m in height, b=4 l=5 is 2.8 in height, 5.6 in length, and say 4.2, then you've created an awesome resonance box. But I suspect
Demmpa: [citat] And if you compare traffic deaths worldwide, it's about 1,350,000 per year, 1350000/8006889000=0.0001686048 so approximately one order of magnitude higher worldwide than in Sweden.
Ulltand: Yes, it should be for moisture reasons (condensation) I think.
Pippilina: [citat] Did you buy pre-painted panels? How do you find the quality of the boards?
Kadde93: [citat] Cheap but it is too hard, not as soft as the one in the movie/pictures:)
egge80: Remove the vent, measure the center from the ceiling and the center from the previous panel. Glue up the new panel, mark your measurements and saw. Press the vent in place, take two steps back and enjoy having a centered hole.
Hasse C: Thank you for the wise answers. I think I will lean towards blocks with approximately cc60 and fine-tune them with spacer washers so the hole becomes rectangular and adapted for the door's latch. Then I will glue the trim to the blocks.
ulfalf: Thanks for the answers. I ended up using wooden studs anyway, with sill paper between each stud and the wall just to be safe. The wall is an interior wall, so it doesn't feel like there are any extreme moisture migrations in the wall. Used nail plugs for fastening, so there was a heck of a lot of drilling, but at least the studs are in place.
Pumabjörnen: [citat] Exciting, two years ago I carried out a similar total renovation in our house built in '43, a classic own home house. In my case, I tore everything down and only kept the roof trusses and the roof sheathing and opened the outer wall frame all the way out to the back of the outer wall panel (it should be noted that in my case an additional insulation with west coast board and new outer
egge80: Contura's stoves all have (possibly some exceptions) 10 cm to combustible materials, so it is very common for it to look like it does at your place, I wouldn't be worried but the chimney sweep has probably approved the installation?
Pejter: [citat] Hi, it ended up being option 1. But it turned out that when I made a hole in the chimney shaft, it wasn't a steel pipe but composite, so it was easy to saw off. Sealed with Rockwool stone wool insulation around the pipe both upwards and downwards and then bricked it up again. Got approved without any remark.
Snyggingen: [citat] Thanks for the response! The spring has managed to tie itself in a knot back there (literally). I still need to try to reach the pipe with the telephone cables, so unfortunately, I have to open it up.
Fippe c: Hi, I built a hall of 860m2 with a steel frame and sandwich panels for both the roof and walls. That hall has remained tight for over three years now, and I bought the panels from Kingspan. Very satisfied! A little over a year ago, I built another hall. This time 2200m2. Ordered the frame with mounted walls and roof from a construction company. Unfortunately, the company went bankrupt just as the
Hamrin: [citat] Leaning more and more towards that, especially since it's stuck on the boards and not at all on the tiles. I think I used Bauhaus Probau flexi low dust or something similar. Thanks for the tips regarding Kiilto. Leaning towards removing the adhesive, using primer and adhesive from Kiilto.
husdrommaren: [citat] This sounds really interesting, you don't happen to remember where you bought these square profiles? I've looked around but can't find a good result.