Building Materials and Construction Technology
tobben87: I would have used plaster mix any day of the week. If mixed correctly, it becomes relatively "viscous" and can be applied without major problems even on the ceiling. The advantage of plaster mix is its quick setting time, I can usually refill the hole after an hour, by then it has set. So several small batches with plaster mix do the trick, easy to sand and easy to mix. If I don't need much, I
klaskarlsson: [citat] I'm not quite following, if you have the vertical beams on the gables reaching up to the ridge and also attached to the ridge, then there shouldn't be any problems, as they are anchored both at the floor and the ceiling, so to speak. I thought they were freestanding on the long sides. A beam between these would help since the "string" would want to pull the beams inward, which this beam
SebbeEngel: [citat] [bild] The planks measure 21 x 5cm - it's masonite that is nailed on both sides, which of course matters less. I have found the drawing of the house and marked in red which wall it is. [bild]
andhak2802: Hello, I need to put up a new wall in the upcoming bathroom. The challenge is that the sewer stack makes it difficult with the base plate. I want the finished wall to come as close to the stack as possible, how would you do it? On the studs, there will then be 15mm plywood, plasterboard, and vinyl flooring. The sewer stack protrudes 240mm from the back wall. [bild] [bild] Best regards, Andreas
Biggle: The previous stove stood on a concrete slab, which is cast on the house's concrete slab over the crawl space, underneath there is a column of lightweight concrete down to the bedrock (is crawl space). We had to cast a little on the sides, but it was easily arranged.
Lifestyle: [citat] Hi! Super cool! Moved in 7 days ago so it's very fresh. It is plastered, concrete slab. We have two floors, both above ground. The bedroom on the lower floor has a crawl space underneath that we will seal and install a dehumidifier in the coming weeks, as for the hall we're yet to determine if it's a slab-on-ground - we'll be opening it up from the outside in the coming weeks. See
Cerb: [citat] It matters. But buy whichever moldings you want and dry them in the room where they will be installed for 3-4 weeks and it will be fine. (Provided the room is properly heated)
Finndjävel: Now it is not interesting what your panel is. Ts panel is probably rough-cut as the dimension is a rough-cut dimension.
Byggareberg: I have used their construction adhesive to attach various wooden details and tile trims. It holds like a rock and sets quickly. https://www.biltema.se/bygg/kemikalier/lim/bygglim-2000049693
esara: [citat] @Snickarkirre Thanks!! Exactly what I needed. A little fine-tuning left here, but it looks like it's going well.
Dublin: [citat] If you buy such a box, you won't have to paint https://www.elbutik.se/product.html/kopplingsdosa-falurod-ip65-norwesco?gclid=Cj0KCQiAx6ugBhCcARIsAGNmMbjIPwy_cf51tL6uwGSNeAhP_g3ZQ55KjNHq00Veg7tovhFA11O4KbsaAhNJEALw_wcB On the other hand, what kind of facade is it? If you really want it hidden, maybe you can loosen some facade boards and lead a flexible conduit inside the facade to the
Ooli: Preferably, I don't want to go down to 50, but as previously mentioned here, life is full of compromises:p [bild] The construction height on this is just under 60 mm, feels much nicer in terms of the floor structure(y)
JustDoIt: We got help from craftsmen to screw up a new ceiling in the basement of the previous house where reeds and plaster started to come loose. There, they screwed up tongue and groove boards across the entire ceiling, and it went just fine. Sheets probably work just as well as long as it's still reasonably flat.
HusMosen: [citat] It looks like it! Thanks. Isn't it special that it is in one room but not the other four in the basement? Or was it done like that?
Hammare&Spik: [citat] 24-25cm above the top of the window should be the middle approx. Thank you all for helping me find solutions. I appreciate it ❤️❤️❤️
Jiji: I can answer the question about panel boards that have warped. I'll leave the other question about the distance between studs for someone else to answer. It is possible to install beadboard that has warped, but it's helpful if there are multiple people who can hold and press at the same time. (We're doing it right now and so far we've managed to put up all the panel boards even though some seemed
Hekne: I have now drawn up a steel frame (120x60x5) and adjusted the diagonal steps. What do you think? Will it work/hold?
BirgitS: [citat] There are quite a few regulations that must be met, for example, in terms of ceiling height, escape routes, windows, etc. https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/hyra-ut-i-kaellaren.306486/#post-2845827
AG A: It should work fine with both types of plaster. A gap of -4 - 2.5mm will not be visible once the trim is in place. I have personally had more than a 5mm level difference on some windows/doors that wasn't visible with trim. But in the worst case, there are also various types of clackfoder available. It is also possible to fill a narrow gap with caulk.
Vardagsrum: [citat] [citat] We think it's settlement damage... Yes, if that's the case and it hasn't finished settling, then it's money and especially a lot of work down the proverbial drain... I don't rule out a chimney fire either, and since the floor bisque rests on corbels in the chimney breast, it has, if so, prevented the chimney from expanding. Then the mortar is probably stronger than the stones, and
Hannes93: [citat] The plastic carpet itself was of turquoise color, I probably never took a picture and uploaded it here, as I was mostly concerned with the "black mass" which turned out to be no danger.
Oneminde: https://patriklovstrom.wixsite.com/thelongestdream/post/revised-foundation
amoreex: Here is a closer picture of how it lies against the rafters [bild]
Jocke Best: [citat] Agree. Maybe it's even a good idea to glue a board to the entire wall in question, if it is so small. Then no board is visible, and it holds even better.
Messier1994: [citat] A foot gutter will be perfect, thank you very much!
Uppfinnar-Nils: Maybe a bit late reply... The sulforms blocks are a convenient way to achieve a large base area against the ground, as well as allowing space for extra reinforcement on the top of the blocks, in the depression. When you fill with concrete and cast the reinforcement, the blocks can take quite a large compressive load. It becomes like a concrete beam on the top. If you have a heavy masonry wall on