Building Materials and Construction Technology
Tomtom79: A hole saw works as well if you have one of good quality and saw at the right speed with some cooling. However, it should not get too hot so that the sheet metal gets damaged.
sekel skiftet1912: [citat] Apologies for the poor picture, I took it hastily on my way to work this morning. I'll try to take a better one during the day. But I think it's as you say, 22.5, will try to halve the 45 and cut a new groove in the box. Thanks for the tip! Regarding what looks like a strip, it's just a curtain ceiling track.
Morgan Ahlebom: Hi! I'm in the process of setting up part of the basement for wine storage and I'm looking for rörtegel. I know that places like Bauhaus and Hornbach have previously sold it, but it seems it's no longer available. Does anyone know where to turn to get this? Thanks!
sturnus: [citat] It probably won't. The boards must lie on the wooden grate. So the window would have to be extended beyond the wall structure to be flush with the cement boards. The only sensible alternative is flashing which will prevent rainwater from leaking behind the boards
sturnus: Det är svårt att säga från dessa bilder. På grund av att det var en yttervägg och inget är känt om utbyggnaden, dvs. om den gjordes i enlighet med byggnadskonsten, verkar en inspektion på plats vara nödvändig.
Fällebyggarn: If you assume it is a wooden stud, at least 45x45mm plus 12.5mm gypsum, I would use a screw that is 70mm. Depending a bit on what you find in your pockets... but not the weakest variants.
alkro: Hello! We have a rather worn concrete staircase at the front, where some concrete has also fallen off the underside, which is visible on the side of the staircase. We are planning a major renovation of the front in a few years and will then build a completely new staircase, but I would like to tidy it up until then. On the top side, I have already repaired by pouring new concrete and the final
egge80: Glue and screw a 45x70 or 45x95 flat onto the entire existing one, so you won't have to deal with Sala and feina and everything that was suggested.
partysvensken: There should be many good "skrapor," not sure what these are called but you can probably google it. Otherwise, you can do like me: Take a spattel, a pry bar, and just go for it. Incredibly hard work, boring, goes slowly - but it works. Might be able to test a concrete grinder too.
daddydj: Neodymium magnets are awesome. Easily find all the drywall screws with these.
Claes Sörmland: Looks like hydraulic lime mortar is the right bag product for you.
Norrtull: [citat] What an impressively clear guide, almost gives me the courage to tackle our old chimney stack. (y)
cpalm: [citat] No, at least not if it cannot be considered a "significant change to the apartment." However, if the member absolutely wants the board's approval, it's reasonable that the member can also show that the change is "harmless," no matter how obvious it may be. So it's not at all certain that the board sees any problem with TS proceeding with the measure "at their own risk" without approval.
Finndjävel: I didn't say it doesn't dampen. It dampens but only marginally. Råspont (wood) is not the same as having a hollow wall with plasterboard. Råspont is quite soft and porous. An empty wall with plasterboard will act like a drum that amplifies certain frequencies. This wall will not become that. Extra boards on the wall on top of råspont will do significantly more to dampen the sound than
Kretikos: I would go with oljeboard or similar proven and more durable materials to sleep better at night.
K. L: A terrace facing north is probably the most optimal; you can use it on summer days when it's the hottest outside. Otherwise, it gets too hot to sit there when the sun is blazing. If you want to sunbathe, you have a sun deck. That's how we have it at our home. :)
Demmpa: No tar paper between the concrete slab and the brick wall, but there is tar paper between the brick wall and the roof/intermediate joists.
Muthai: I have built a house with Ytong and have certain "fields" on the façade that will be clad in vertical wood paneling. To achieve an even level on the façade, I have deviated from the 360mm blocks and used 300mm blocks behind where the wood paneling will be. This way, I have created a 65mm space for the wood paneling including the battens. All Ytong is plastered with thin plaster, even the parts
useless: [citat] Some form of support is needed so that the trusses/ridge don't sag lengthwise. Then it's just as well to do as the OP has drawn from the beginning.
rispalt: The panelist gave quick feedback and tips on some lists that might be close enough. They can also Legotilllverka but it would be too expensive for our needs and budget. We will probably have to replace some "sections" to make it look uniform. Again, thanks for the tips!
jonaserik: There is probably a hole in the ceiling underneath as well, you can lay down some wooden boards in the hole that lie on the wood there and screw them from the underside with countersunk screws, then there is something to attach a board or something else to cover the hole. In the hole, you put a plastic bag and press down regular insulation until full. What you should use for surface material I
sturnus: Your drawing shows that the span between the outer walls is about 8m. In this case, it can be a load-bearing wall. Remember that during construction, the structure carries only its own weight. Then there is the weight of the roofing material, wind load, snow load, etc.
PNO: Remove the stones completely, clean the joints from all old mortar, and then cement them back in. If the joints are too narrow to manage, you can reduce the size of the bricks a bit so you have space for a trowel. Since it will be plastered anyway, it doesn't really matter exactly how the joints look underneath. But everything must be secured before plastering.