Spackling drywall *sigh*

[Mattias E Svensson]

Most tasks usually go well when I completely renovate a room, but spackling feels daunting. As an amateur, how can I make it as good and simple as possible? I fill the gap between the drywall to make it flat, apply fabric/glue wallpaper when it's dry, and place the paper tape in it, then when it's dry, apply a couple of layers of spackle over it? This is for the walls. Note, it doesn't need to be fast and I don't want to embed the tape, have bad memories of that.

I also have drywall on the ceiling which is a sloped ceiling, i.e., it angles towards the wall and there are two angles in the middle of the ceiling at the top that need to be spackled. How can I do this easily and best so that it is as good and durable as possible?

 

[Plupp 358496]

You shouldn't worry about that. Find the Norgips installation manual and you'll have all the information you need.

 

[Farstatjej90]

Did it go well TS? There are loads of really good guides on YouTube otherwise.

 

[HEM2121]

Most tasks usually go well when I completely renovate a room, but spackling feels scary. As a layman, how can I make it as easy and good as possible? Spackle the gap between the drywall so it's flat, glue with wallpaper paste when it's dry and put the paper tape in it, then when it's dry put a couple of layers of spackle over it? This is for the walls. Note, it doesn't have to be quick and I don't want to spackle in the tape, have bad memories of that.

I also have drywall in the ceiling, which is an angled ceiling, i.e., it angles towards the wall and has two angles in the middle of the ceiling at the top that need to be spackled; how do you do this as easily and best as possible to ensure it's as good and durable as possible?

The preparation work is what takes the longest. Make sure to have good tools, like a wide putty knife for example, sandpaper, ensure you can sand the entire width at once, don't apply too much spackle at once, better to let it dry and spackle again, sand, spackle again, etc. It's not just the gap; drywall is usually beveled at the edges so that whole part needs to be spackled for the wall to become smooth. As someone else mentioned earlier, watch on YouTube how to do it. Good luck!

 

[Stuff]

As the previous speaker said. It's better to apply a little less spackle and do it in several rounds.

The most tedious and dusty part is sanding.
In my first attempts, I was tempted to slather on too much spackle and then work like crazy with the sandpaper to get the final result. This only resulted in a lot of extra sweat and 50% of the spackle ending its career as dust.
After some practice, you can achieve 99% of the final result with the spackle knife, and all that's left is a gentle touch with the sanding block.

 

[Mattias E Svensson]

I have glued the strips with wet room adhesive after I filled the seams with gypsum mortar. It turned out well without any bubbles now that I have putty over it.

 

[mojjen]

I glued the strips with wet room glue after filling the joints with gypsum. Turned out well without any bubbles when I now plastered over.

That's what I do too. I've managed to renovate nearly 220m2 of gypsum ceiling, and even more walls. I still find it really difficult to get the strip directly into the plaster. I've tried at regular intervals but always regret it and start gluing. Aside from the time, there's nothing wrong with gluing, it's probably better in terms of seam strength. Professionals don't do it because it takes time. Regarding short seams in ceilings that are not recessed, gluing is probably the only sensible option.

 

[TheGame]

That's how I do it too. Even though I've renovated nearly 220m2 of gypsum ceiling and even more walls. I still find it really difficult to embed tape directly into joint compound. I've tried periodically, but I always regret it and start gluing. Aside from the time, gluing isn't a mistake, it's probably better in terms of durability. Professionals don't do it because it takes time. Regarding short seams in ceilings that aren't recessed, gluing is probably the only sensible option.

How long does it take for the glue to dry to fix the tapes compared to joint compound drying to fix the tapes?
I've always used joint compound for paper tapes on ceilings. I've still waited until the next day.
For walls that are going to be wallpapered, I've used simpler fiberglass tape that is self-adhesive.

 

[mojjen]

How long does it take for the glue to dry and fix the strips compared to joint compound drying to fix the strips?
I've always used joint compound for paper strips on ceilings. I've waited until the next day anyway.
For walls that are going to be wallpapered, I've used simple self-adhesive fiberglass strips.

The thing with strips is that you want (at least I do) to first fill the gaps with plaster or compound so the recess becomes smooth. Sometimes I've had to apply compound 2 times for it to get reasonably smooth. It's probably overkill, but one filling, otherwise the strip gets pressed into the seam. So it corresponds to your compound round with the strip. Then gluing, which I usually let sit overnight. So you lose about the equivalent of a round of compound in time. It doesn't matter when you're building yourself, but if the painter has to do it and come back a day later, it becomes cost-driving.