Corrugated wall sheet metal provides good opportunities for a ventilated facade but can also be thought to leave wide open spaces for mice to scurry around in the gap and then gnaw their way onward. For wooden facades, there are mouse strips that take up irregularities in the back of the panel, stop the mice, and allow air circulation. But, what do you do with a facade in corrugated wall sheet metal? It would hardly be good to let the metal fingers of the mouse strip rest and wear against the coating on the back of the sheet. An approach could be to have mouse strips and then a batten or stud that the sheet is mounted against with those foam sealing strips designed for sealing the back of corrugated sheet metal. Aside from the fact that this takes up wall thickness (and thus room space in compact houses and other buildings with limited outer area), one might imagine that in certain situations you get condensation on the inside of the sheet metal (cold building) which then runs down towards the sealing and batten where it can cause problems. Additionally, it is probably no problem for mice to chew through the foam if they put their mind to it. Does anyone know how mouse protection is best solved in this case or have a good idea? I am considering wall sheet metal to get a fire-protective coating and reduce maintenance needs.

As for mouse strips + battens, it might be replaced by Europrofi's ventilated metal battens if the holes are small enough to be mouse-proof, but the potential problems with the foam sealing still remain.
 
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F FGLIN said:
It would hardly be good to let the metal tape's fingers rest against and wear down the surface coating on the back of the metal.
How much wear do you actually think would occur? My house moves very little, so I am doubtful about the relevance of this issue at all.
 
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S stugfar said:
How much wear do you think would actually occur? My house moves very little, so I'm doubtful of the relevance of the issue at all.
I expect a metal facade to move back and forth with temperature changes and that the wind can have its effect, besides the risk that fingers might scratch during installation.
 
The fact that the joints between the boards are separating sounds strange. I thought that was impossible with click flooring.

Looking at the pictures, it seems like they've used spacers against the walls. I don't think that's the problem. Could it be that the joists they've used to level the floors have shrunk, causing the floor surface to sink a bit? I know this has been mentioned as a problem with tiled bathrooms in newly built wooden houses. The construction shrinks over several months after installation.
 
H hempularen said:
This issue of the joints separating sounds strange to me. I thought it was impossible with click flooring.

Looking at the pictures, it does seem like they've used spacers against the walls. I don't think that's the problem. Could it be that the joists they used to level the floors have shrunk, causing the floor surface to sink a bit? I know this has been mentioned as a problem with tiled bathrooms in newly built wooden houses. The construction shrinks over a number of months after installation.
This post seems to belong to another thread.
 
F FGLIN said:
Corrugated wall sheet provides good opportunities for a ventilated facade but can also potentially leave wide open for mice to run around in the gap and then gnaw further. For wooden facades, there are mouse bands that compensate for irregularities in the back of the panel, stop mice, allow air circulation. But, how do you handle a facade in corrugated wall sheet? It would hardly be good to let the metal fingers of the mouse band rest and rub against the coating on the plate's backside. An approach can be to have a mouse band and then a batten or stud against which the sheet is mounted with those foam seal strips designed for sealing the backside of corrugated sheet. Apart from this taking wall thickness (and thus room space in attefall houses or other outer area-limited buildings), one can imagine that in some situations condensation forms on the inside of the sheet (cold building) which then runs down towards the seal and batten and there can cause problems. Also, it is probably not difficult for mice to chew through the foam if they put their mind to it. Does anyone know how mouse protection is best solved in this case or has a good idea? I am considering wall sheet to get a fire-protective coating and reduce maintenance needs.

As for mouse band + batten, it might be replaced by Europrofile’s ventilated metal batten if the holes are small enough to be mouse proof, but the potential problems with foam seal remain.
Got an idea, if you attach flat sheet on the back of the corrugated wall sheet, for example, through flat sheet being clamped between the wall sheet and the subsurface or with blind riveting, channels form at the corrugation peaks. These are, of course, large enough for mice to pass through, but can mice climb vertical metal surfaces? Even if they don't manage it on a free outer surface, there is a risk they might succeed by bracing between the outer and inner sheet, possibly after the sheet or coating has aged somewhat. What do the other forum participants think?

Should that be the case, one might consider that sufficient overhang and underhang for the sheets might help, as the rodents are probably not so acrobatic that they climb down on a free metal surface, turn 180 degrees upward around a sharp metal edge, and continue upwards? Then, of course, it is essential that there are no bridges anywhere due to things placed against it or plants growing up. Bats and insects might also be problematic. Then there are foam seal strips but one returns to the question of condensation that might run along the inside of the wall sheet.
 
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I still believe in just using regular mouse bands. If by any chance a tooth breaks after 10-20 years of light rubbing against the metal 1-3 mm back and forth, patch locally with a better type of roof edge net. But I understand that you want others' opinions.
 
S stugfar said:
I still believe in just using regular mouse bands. Should a tooth, against all odds, break off after 10-20 years of slight rubbing against the sheet metal 1-3 mm back and forth, patch locally with a better type of eaves protection net. But I understand that you want others' opinions.
I'm not worried about the teeth breaking. I'm worried that they will wear down the coating on the inside of the metal sheet, leading to corrosion there.
 
S
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