Huddingebo Huddingebo said:
Drainage pipes are sold in different strength classes, right? Is anyone checking that they're comparing the same class when comparing prices? Approved according to "bla bla bla" doesn't tell the whole truth.
Well, if your starting point is that certifications are "bla bla bla," what would make you care about the labeling or stated strength at all? Those tests could also be "bla bla bla," right?

Edit: adding from Poly Nordic's website:
"In the Nordic countries, high-quality plastic pipe products are used. Product quality has been ensured through national quality marking of the products, where independent testing institutes have supervised the testing. For products used in buildings, national authorities (Boverket in Sweden) have previously set standards and issued type approvals ("fork mark" in Sweden).

As previously issued type approvals expire, they will not be renewed, and type approvals will therefore gradually disappear in the near future. Moving forward, the CE mark will apply, which does not correspond to the quality level previously maintained in the Nordic countries.

By prescribing that plastic pipe products should be marked with the Nordic Poly Mark, it is ensured that plastic pipe products that will continue to be used in land and building applications will maintain the quality level that has been upheld in the Nordic countries."
 
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Huddingebo
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What I meant was that different strength classes can be approved according to a certification. A certification can ensure a certain strength class, but simply saying that a pipe is "certified" does not indicate the strength a particular pipe has.

It was a plumber at work who told me this when I connected to the municipal sewer in 2013. When the sewer pipes burst out from a friend's condominium building a few years ago, it was revealed that the pipes did not have the right strength class for the depth and ground conditions present.

I tried hastily to find some info about this but didn't spend much time on it....
https://repair.expertexpro.com/sv/n...ovetov-po-vyiboru-pvh-trub-dlya-kanalizatsii/

(I didn't mean that certification is "bla bla bla" but that it doesn't say much about the quality that a pipe is certified, the strength class says something about the strength/quality)
 
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Gudahov
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D Drburr said:
Prime with cement mortar, apply plaster mesh, then b-mortar one centimeter thick, smart sheet metal with drip edge or tiles on top. Leave it unpainted. Then hopefully it will hold. Don't forget to mist water on it for 2-3 days.
B mortar is unlikely to last in the long term at the very bottom near the ground, especially if it is exposed to dripping water from the top edge of the wall.
I would recommend using a cement mortar a between 30 and 50cm from the ground.
 
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