Building Materials and Construction Technology
hampus tyresgård: [citat] How did it go? What does it look like today? Suitable with 180cc and 28x70 slats? How tall and how many slats? A picture and height would be nice 😁
Jalkesen: [citat] There is sill adhesive under the sill, but I think the moisture is coming in on the vertical edge of the sill, not from underneath.
Oldboy: Before taking any action, it's important to reasonably establish why it is cold. There are two main reasons: 1. The house/room is not airtight, allowing cold air to enter. 2. There is insufficient insulation. Both of these causes can naturally exist simultaneously. The worst case is if it is not airtight. If cold air is coming in, the thickness of the insulation doesn't matter much. It's like
Ptrkm: I agree that it doesn't seem possible. But I still got anxious, maybe shouldn't think so much... 😁 Have continued the demolition. Will check with the municipality if they have any drawings. Thanks for the answer.
TheGame: Plaster is used on walls and is easy to apply joint compound on, so then you just paint or wallpaper over it.
Oldboy: It may well be justified to insulate the gables since a heating cable is based on raising the temperature, thereby lowering the RH. If insulation would worsen the situation, then it would just be a matter of installing a gable vent or two. Preferably with active regulation based on both indoor attic temperature and outdoor temperature as well as RH.
Muthai: [citat] Do you have a picture of it? :)
Danielandersson1975: Hello I hope to get help with a question about beam support. I will hire a structural engineer for final dimensioning but would appreciate your input to evaluate a proposal for kitchen design. Conditions: - Villa in Nacka (snow zone 2) - Built in 1923 - Four floors with the top floor being an unfinished attic and the lowest floor a basement partly above ground - Timber frame In 2004, a kitchen
Stefan N: Sounds like a regular ceiling gypsum board. [bild]
Malinamator: [citat] I'll check them out, thanks for all the tips! 😀
gustavholm: there is a bathroom upstairs but it has been there the whole time
anna04: [citat] I'm in the process of learning. I realized today that an adjustment is probably needed!
hapazard: As long as it is dry, chlorophenol (which was included in Cuprinol green and old pressure-treated wood) does not give off an odor, right? So perhaps it's easiest to leave it as it is if you're not experiencing any issues?
TJW Johnsson: [citat] Then you could consider how it should be nailed at the corner, bargeboards, and around windows by those who say only one nail in the middle. If it's 145 width, the board will move there as well, right? But it doesn't crack. It would be strange with a nail in the middle of all those. There might be some gaps if you do it that way. I have nailed both horizontal 145 and vertical 95-170
steppen7: In the end, it became a cast slab with waterborne underfloor heating connected to the geothermal heat. I went all in.
Karin Kaarle: Hi, how did you do it? And how has it worked? Nice front yard 👍🏼
Phille82: In this case, I want to keep them. Will there perhaps be ugly marks on them with a chisel?
Johnny Viking: If you're going to do it once, don't choose 45x45. It's too thin, and the whole wall will flex a lot and risk cracks in the surface. Use at least 45x70. To avoid plastering, you can use 120cm wide and cut off the sides of the drywall so they are straight and 13mm (and not around 9-10mm). Then directly use renovation wallpaper on top which you set perfectly edge to edge, and then paint with a
Prodigys: [citat] Yes, at least as wide as the entrance, and the closer it is to the connecting road, the wider it needs to be for larger vehicles to make the turn.
pennybridge: [citat] Oh sorry, I forgot this. Now I'm in the USA this week so I won't be able to check until the middle of next week. But the dimensions of the outer part are: Width 1245mm Depth: 545mm And the slab is about 20cm wider on each side, then about 20cm wider at the back, and maybe 30cm at the front. The thickness is about as high as an SJ pallet.
peterhamberg: Which mortar should I use for the basement wall when I'm adding new plaster? It is below ground level.
Rönnerdahl: [citat] If the treated wood is old and has been exposed to the West Coast climate for 10-15 years. Washed about 5 times. I don't know because we inherited the veranda, Then there can't be that many toxic fumes left, right?
nernu: Interesting! That should mean less impact.
Bob.j: Agree that it's not good to seal if you don't know where it's leaking. Now I'm quite sure that it's been leaking in two places. The first place is where the fence post is attached to the wall, there was a large gap where I put the sealant, the water got in between the metal sheet and the facade board there before. The second place is the roof sheet right by the facade, I had cut/folded it so it
MathiasS: How have you secured the top row of stone that you have left in place?
Klabbis 3000: I have repaired some poor plastering on the foundation with repair mortar/filler, whichever name one chooses to call it. The thickness mostly varies between three to eight millimeters. Can you paint over such mortar as soon as it seems dry, in a few days, or do you need to wait a couple of months as with regular plaster and thus let it stand unpainted over the winter? I have used Finja Laga Ute.
Skruppler: Hello, I live in a house where there used to be a latrine container connected to the toilet. The space where the container was is now used for rough storage. The lid for the space is a large (110x190 cm) sheet of metal (see image) that is cumbersome to lift. I would like to have easier access to the space and am thinking about how to construct a more convenient lid. I would now like to have tips
Jonatan79: [citat] You don’t know how easy or difficult it is to find pipes or similar that fit in the channel. How expensive or not it is to install/modify the channel. The hatch/opening in the bathroom will be more work, etc., etc...