I am building a trellis similar to this:

Gray trellis structure attached to a wooden deck with a grassy lawn, positioned next to a brick building, under a clear blue sky. A lattice trellis with horizontal slats is installed beside a house, featuring painted wood sections for construction inspiration.

I need advice on how to attach the upper and lower crossbeams to the posts. The crossbeams are 45x95 and need to be attached to the posts (95x95). Painted timber, not pressure-treated.

I see three options but am having difficulty deciding which is best:
1) Screw from above down into the posts. Easiest but seems like the worst option as it will lead to water pooling in the screw holes
2) Screw in from underneath at an angle, possibly with pocket holes
3) Angle brackets

Which is best? Are there other options?
 
Just because it is painted wood, option 1 is immediately excluded.

Since you have painted wood, I think you should angle the posts so that the top rail tilts slightly. That way, you avoid water accumulation entirely on the top and everything will last much longer. If you angle the top rail, it's also not possible to use angle brackets, so that option is also excluded.

In other words, you have no choice. You can only choose to screw from underneath at an angle.
 
You can interlock the timber and glue it with outdoor glue so the joints become tight.
 
Janus82 Janus82 said:
Just because it is painted wood, option 1 is immediately ruled out.

Since you have painted wood, I think you should angle the posts so that the rail slopes slightly. Then you completely avoid water pooling on the top, and everything will last much longer. If you angle the rail, you also can't use angle brackets, so that option is also ruled out.

In other words, you have no choice. You can only choose to screw obliquely from underneath.
The rail is angled at 15 degrees. Why wouldn't it work with a (smaller) angle bracket?

A hand holding two wooden beams connected by an angled metal bracket with holes, showing a 15-degree angle construction detail.
 
Z z_bumbi said:
You can interlock the wood and glue it with outdoor glue to make the joints tight.
Don't quite understand... And is it stronger than screwing?
 
P pfb said:
The crossbar is angled at 15 degrees. Why wouldn't it work with (a smaller) angle iron?

[image]
When you show it so clearly I feel a bit embarrassed...
I just had a brain freeze and thought wrong simply.
 
P pfb said:
I don't really understand... And is it stronger than screwing?
In the post, you make a recess that is 45 mm high and 45 mm deep. In the handrail, you make a recess that is 45 mm deep. Now you can glue the handrail in the recess in the post. Screw or peg through the joint.

Another variant is to make a tenon at the end of the handrail and a corresponding hole in the post. Here, dowels work best but the holes should not be aligned; instead, the hole through the post should be a few millimeters deeper towards the bottom of the hole so that when a dowel is driven in, the handrail will be forced further into the hole.

Then there are techniques I've never tested/succeeded with, like making dovetails. Without a router and a good template, it's difficult to achieve.

The joints above with a good outdoor glue are probably stronger than screwing, but good screws are very strong in themselves so it's mostly examples of different fastening methods.
 
Became angle iron
Metal angle irons used to construct a modern railing on a wooden deck in front of a brick residential building. Metal angle iron railing on a wooden deck, with a brick building and grass yard in the background.
 
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